Remanufactured Haldex Air Dryer

September 28, 2011, 02:23:20 pm

A month ago, our Haldex Pure Air Plus air dryer bottom purge valve stuck open after we parked in a campsite during leveling. We did not have air pressure to our wet tank, but were in a great place to be stuck.

We have changed the desiccant & coalescing filter many times using the DQ6026 service kit over the years but have never rebuilt the 15-year old bottom valves. We do carry the inexpensive DQ6020 Lower Housing Repair kit, but decided to not rebuild our air dryer ourselves at this time.

We purchased a complete Haldex part number DA33100X remanufactured Pure Air Plus air dryer with new desiccant & coalescing filters at NAPA for $234. Top filter kit and bottom repair kit is about $135, so the reman unit cost about $100 and looks like new. NAPA list is $310 for the part.

Standard Haldex connections shows a small hose at control port from governor, large hose from air compressor to input port and a large hose from output port to wet tank. Foretravel has added a brass check valve with four hose connections to the air dryer input port: 1) from compressor, 2) to dryer input. It seems when compressor stops compressing, this check valve connects 3) compressor air line to dryer control port which also has the governor connection. There is also a 4) small nylon brake line from check valve to wet tank. Foretravel air schematic drawing shows the air line from control port to input port and also the plastic #60 air line from input port to wet tank. On our coach the #60 plastic air line was clogged up.

Does anyone know why this check valve is added by Foretravel and how the check valve works?

We removed all original brass fittings from original dryer, cleaned them up and put everything back together on reman dryer with thread sealer on the pipe threads. Everthing checked out with no air leaks and we are good to go again. Old air dryer had a $99 core charge.

Re: Remanufactured Haldex Air Dryer

Reply #1 – September 28, 2011, 03:58:40 pm

Barry,
On ours the #60 line has a check valve that is made into the 90 where it comes out of the wet tank. It is a pain to get to, to remove and clean.
The check valve that you speak of at the dryer sounds like the same set up we have. Did you take it apart and clean the piston bore and install 2 new "O" rings?
If you take it apart you will see that it is a balance piston that operates the check valve and not a spring. If the piston is not free in the bore then the valve will operate slow. If the "O" rings are bad then you can have an internal air leak that is impossible to find because the air escapes through the dryer inlet.
On our air schematic it didn't show the #60 line or the line from the control port. It would have been a big help if it had been there (we had to pencil ours in like drawn as built) when we first had a problem with our air dryer. Now it is old hat.
Hope this is some help
Pamela & Mike

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