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Working On My Six Pack

No, not my stomach...I'm afraid it's a lost cause.  I'm referring to the one on our coach.

Nice weather here, so I decided to chase some pesky air leaks.  First step: rebuild the front six pack (cuz it's easy to reach).  I marked everything carefully, removed the electric solenoids and air hoses, then detached the manifold.  Took it inside to work comfortably on my bench.

Disassembly is pretty easy.  I used a rubber strap wrench to loosen the "air valves".  There was some evidence of water intrusion (see photos), but nothing serious.  I was happy to see ZERO evidence of desiccant powder in the valves or air passages...but there was some dust and a bit of oily dirt.  Once I got started cleaning things up, I decided to have a little fun...you will see the result in the second set of photos.

I'm waiting on some parts to complete the rebuild.  When they arrive, I will put everything back together, then post a final set of photos, plus a list of part numbers.  Hope these will be helpful to those of you who have not yet tackled this project.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"It goes without saying..."

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #1
More photos.  Notice I stamped the manifold inlet/outlet holes with the air hose numbers, to ease future maintenance work.

I'm waiting on 2 new pressure switches, plus a complete set of Parker Prestomatic air hose fittings.  When these arrive, I will finish the rebuild.

Note: Edited the second set of photos to correct the orientation of the manifold...
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"It goes without saying..."

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #2
Looking good Chuck! Bookmarking this thread for future reference. ^.^d
Don
The selected media item is not currently available.
Don & Tys
1999 U270 3602 WTFE #5402
Xtreme Stage 1 w/Headlight, Step Conversion, etc.
2009 Honda Fit Sport with Navi
Freedom is NOT "just another word for nothing left to lose"... with apologies to Kris Kristofferson

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #3
Very interesting.  This project is on my list.  I'll be watching.  ;D
Scott & Carol Seibert
2001 42' double slide U320 - Sold
Previous - 2002 36' U320

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #4
@Chuck,

Looking pretty. I'm going to need suppliers, part numbers, and MOPs! :) Nice write up.

see ya
ken
The selected media item is not currently available.ken & dori hathaway & Big Agnes
🍺1992 U300 GrandVilla WTBI #4150 FOT FBP 2011
✨6V-92TA DDEC Parlor Coach 350HP Series 92
🏁2011 Nissan XTerra Pro-4X

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #5
 ^.^d
2003 GV U295 (6230)
2006 Jeep Unlimited TJ
2018 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins
Former 94 GV U225

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #6
Once I got started cleaning things up, I decided to have a little fun...you will see the result in the second set of photos.


Given the appearance change, did you use something to remachine the o-ring sealing surfaces of the valve "ports" on the manifold?  Inquiring minds  ;) 

(I ask because it looks like there are scratches across one of them in the first set of photos (middle left on the vertical orientation) that doesn't appear to be there in photos of the second post)
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

Lifetime Escapees' member SKP 82766
Former 1999 30IB Lazy Daze (2000-2004)
Former 2003 U320 (2004-2016)
Former 2017 LTV Unity (2017-2023)
Shopping for our next coach

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #7
Chuck,
How do the check valves on the air in to the manifold look? Are you going to replace them?
JD
John Duld
1995 U320C SE 40'

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #8
Excellent documentation.

Look forward to final report with PN's.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #9
Given the appearance change, did you use something to remachine the o-ring sealing surfaces of the valve "ports" on the manifold?
Good question.  The manifold body is made of aluminum, so you have to handle it carefully.  To clean up the o-ring seats, I used a very high-tech tool: a yellow No.2 pencil eraser.  Several of them, actually...  I keep a box of pencils in my shop for exactly this purpose - I find the erasers very handy for cleaning electrical contacts and light cleaning/polishing duties.  PLUS, if you sharpen the other end, you can write with them!

The rest of the manifold body was gently cleaned with green Scotch-brite pads, followed by a bit of aluminum cleaner-polish.  Ran a tap through the threaded holes, cleaned out the drilled passages with Q-tips, vigorously blew out all the holes with my air gun.  It is important not to leave any grit behind that might foul a valve seat.

The brass parts cleaned up easily with a brass wire wheel on my bench grinder.  The thick cad plated washers (that fit under the coils) were cleaned up with the wire wheel, which pretty much removed all the anti-corrosive finish.  I plan to replace these washers, if possible.

@John Duld:  All new o-rings will be used, of course, including the ones on the small nylon check valves, both of which are otherwise in like-new condition.  Full list of (current) part numbers to follow.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"It goes without saying..."

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #10
Good question.  The manifold body is made of aluminum, so you have to handle it carefully.  To clean up the o-ring seats, I used a very high-tech tool: a yellow No.2 pencil eraser.

 ^.^d  Exactly why I asked (because you've got a great example of how to do it right).  If a member isn't familiar with what even tiny scratches can do to o-ring surfaces, they might just think "shiny = good".  It's those scratches that transverse the sealing surface that'll get you.  (my dad was a model maker/machinist; I learned as a "yout".)  I once read about someone taking an angle grinder to an air sealing surface on a coach component - still makes me cringe.
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

Lifetime Escapees' member SKP 82766
Former 1999 30IB Lazy Daze (2000-2004)
Former 2003 U320 (2004-2016)
Former 2017 LTV Unity (2017-2023)
Shopping for our next coach

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #11
This goes back many years (OK, decades) but wonder if fine valve lapping compound would allow you to dress the surface properly? No transverse scratches that way.

Norm-- what do you think?
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #12
It's those scratches that transverse the sealing surface that'll get you.
I was most concerned about the two "top" (when the manifold is mounted on the coach) machined recesses.  (In my first post, see the first photo on the left, second row)  It looks, to me, like at one time a corrosive liquid (salt water?) was able to penetrate under the outer o-rings.  It took a lot of (circular) scrubbing with the eraser to remove the staining/etching in the metal surface.  I will take your advice to heart, and be sure to check all the sealing areas for any remaining transverse flaws, before I do the final assembly.

Since the two o-rings that fit under the brass valve bodies are completely "caged" by the design, I have elected to use high quality/high temp Parker red silicone o-rings.  I hope the somewhat "soft" (Durometer) nature of this material will help seal any imperfections that remain.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"It goes without saying..."

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #13
ME? Depends on the scratch depth, the RMS finish required, and the surety that all lapping compound is removed.
Controlling depth without proper equipment (most don't have it) that is exactly perpendicular to surface and contact is equal all around is critical.
At Mercury Marine we roller burnished round shafts. It crushed the high points and sealed "pores" in the metal by crushing high points into valleys, such that the surface was quite smooth--sometimes a 10 RMS and also helped deter rust.
Nitehawk,  Demolition Lady, & our NEW master, Zippy the speeding BB cat.
1989 Grand Villa 36' ORED
Oshkosh chassis, 8.2 DD V8
2006 Saturn Vue AWD

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #14
While I wait on parts to finish my rebuild, here is a interesting little technical tidbit.  Before I started this project, I read all the pertinent existing literature on this Forum, and on Barry's Beamalarm.  Here is the most helpful reference:

HWH Solenoid Valve Disassemble

If you order the O-ring kit from HWH, they send the large and small O-rings that go between the brass valve body and the aluminum manifold.  They DO NOT send (or even sell) the internal O-ring.  This is the one you find after you remove the stainless steel "shaft" assembly from the brass valve body.  At the very end of the above linked article, the internal O-ring is identified as being a AS568-019.  Based on this advice, that is what I ordered for my rebuild.

HOWEVER, after I finished the disassembly of all 6 brass valves (from my front manifold), I discovered something: the internal O-rings in my OEM valves are not conventional O-rings.  They are actually circular lathe-cut seals.  They have a entirely different "feel" to them - not as slick and smooth, but more of a "textured" surface.  And no, they aren't just round O-rings that were sqeezed into a flattened shape - they are definitely square (in cross section).

A little Google search led me to this info:
http://www.darcoid.com/images/uploads/pdfs/bulletins/TSD%205423%20(TetraSeal%20Circular%20Lathe%20Cut%20Seals).pdf

A careful measurement of these seals (with micrometer and machinist's rule) reveals they are actually the same size as the AS568-019 O-ring.  The only difference is they are square, instead of circular, in cross-section.  Since I want to stick as closely as possible with HWH's engineering specs, I decided to order some of these seals and try them instead of the O-rings.  If they don't work (i.e. hold pressure), I can always replace them with O-rings.

In all the reading I did, I never saw any mention of these "square" seals.  Has anyone else run across these in the process of rebuilding/repairing the HWH six-packs?  Or is this a new discovery on my part?  Comments?

Photos: Original HWH "square" seal on the left, new replacement AS568-019 O-ring on the right.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"It goes without saying..."

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #15
While I wait on parts to finish my rebuild, here is a interesting little technical tidbit.  Before I started this project, I read all the pertinent existing literature on this Forum, and on Barry's Beamalarm.  Here is the most helpful reference:

HWH Solenoid Valve Disassemble

That most helpful reference is was actually one of Steve's posts (and those are his photos) here on Foreforums (apparently one of many scraped without his permission, a copyright violation).  I'll try to find the post so the link can be updated.

ETA - sorry, original post no longer here.  Steve deleted his posts from the forum and moved the content elsewhere.
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

Lifetime Escapees' member SKP 82766
Former 1999 30IB Lazy Daze (2000-2004)
Former 2003 U320 (2004-2016)
Former 2017 LTV Unity (2017-2023)
Shopping for our next coach

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #16
Chuck, I have seen these over the years and if HWH used them they must be available. I reckon they hold a higher pressure than the O type and hasten to say you cannot use the O rings in that groove as these would not hold any pressure due to the smaller cross section compared to the original. The surface area of the square one is much bigger than the slightly deformed O ring that fits into the groove.
JohnH
Coachless, now use aircraft.
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #17
  
                      Nice work and thanks for the documentation / I am sure it will be of great assistance to all who
                      attempt to repair their Six packs.
 
 
Jim & Doreen
2003 U320

 "Too often I would hear men boast of the miles covered that day, rarely of what they had seen"
― Louis L'Amour

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #18
While I wait on parts to finish my rebuild, here is a interesting little technical tidbit.  Before I started this project, I read all the pertinent existing literature on this Forum, and on Barry's Beamalarm.  Here is the most helpful reference:

HWH Solenoid Valve Disassemble

If you order the o-ring kit from HWH, they send the large and small o-rings that go between the brass valve body and the aluminum manifold.  They DO NOT send (or even sell) the internal o-ring.  This is the one you find after you remove the stainless steel "shaft" assembly from the brass valve body.  At the very end of the above linked article, the internal o-ring is identified as being a AS568-019.  Based on this advice, that is what I ordered for my rebuild.

HOWEVER, after I finished the disassembly of all 6 brass valves (from my front manifold), I discovered something: the internal o-rings in my OEM valves are not conventional o-rings.  They are actually circular lathe-cut seals.  They have a entirely different "feel" to them - not as slick and smooth, but more of a "textured" surface.  And no, they aren't just round o-rings that were sqeezed into a flattened shape - they are definitely square (in cross section).

A little Google search led me to this info:
http://www.darcoid.com/images/uploads/pdfs/bulletins/TSD%205423%20(TetraSeal%20Circular%20Lathe%20Cut%20Seals).pdf

A careful measurement of these seals (with micrometer and machinist's rule) reveals they are actually the same size as the AS568-019 o-ring.  The only difference is they are square, instead of circular, in cross-section.  Since I want to stick as closely as possible with HWH's engineering specs, I decided to order some of these seals and try them instead of the o-rings.  If they don't work (i.e. hold pressure), I can always replace them with o-rings.

In all the reading I did, I never saw any mention of these "square" seals.  Has anyone else run across these in the process of rebuilding/repairing the HWH six-packs?  Or is this a new discovery on my part?  Comments?

Photos: Original "square" seal on the left, new replacement AS568-019 o-ring on the right.
Caterpillar has a kit with the square seals so they must be available elsewhere. I am curious as to what you finally use and how it turns out. If you will post the part number it would be appreciated as I will be tackling the same issue in my coach.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #19
Those "o" rings are actually called " quad "0" rings. Used in many hydrlalic/air systems on tuna,tug,work boats.
Richard & Betty Bark & Keiko our Golden Doodle
2003 U320T 3820 PBDS
Build # 6215
MC # 16926
2016 Chevrolet Colorado 4X4 diesel

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #20
Good Job!

 Great write-up and documentation. Look forward to the outcome...............
Jack - Cynthia

Jan 2013
2003 U295 38'
3810 PBFS (6180)
2014 Jeep Sahara Unlimited

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #21
Here is a link to the square rings, {I hope}

Square O-rings Buna - Nitrile - Tetraseals® or lathe-cut rings
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #22
@craneman:

Good find!  That is where I put in my order this afternoon!  On the page you linked, click the top left icon (-000 Series).  On the following page, scroll down to part # SN70019 - that's the one you want.  I ordered 24 (enough to do all 12 valves on our coach, twice), and it came to $11.17 with postage included.

Direct link:  019 Buna-N Square O-rings - Tetraseals [SN70019] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We...
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"It goes without saying..."

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #23
Just ordered mine.
Thanks for the link.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Working On My Six Pack

Reply #24
Good find guys, but looking at the type of material would not the Viton be a better choice as it is good for synthetic oil too??
JohnH
Coachless, now use aircraft.
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.