About 1/2 hour ago our BR slide bladder decided to develop a leak. We were just sitting here when we heard the HWH pump running.... running...... running. Heard hissing and investigated.
The leak is a hole in the area of the bladder right above the rail in the middle of the slide (middle, bottom). Not an area that gets a lot of friction.
Steve's on trial 2 with a rubber patch kit trying to seal it up as a temporary fix, since we're here in Michigan and not exactly convenient for a replacement. Any other suggestions if this doesn't worK (other than calling Nac during business hours tomorrow)?
Michelle
Could be worse, You might head to Iowa, and HWH, on I-80.
Know it is not what you had in mind, but it could be a lot worse.
Their exit is about 30 miles west of the Iowa state line/Miss river, not far.
Been there and easy off I-80 at exit, I spent night at small truck stop at the exit, the truck stop was happy with all.
Give them a call
Dave
I often wondered about using a patch.
There should only be 12psi in the bladder.
No reason why it would not hold.
Take it out and send it to a place that specializes in repairing inflatable boats
Good information on the pressure. Even though the second patch didn't hold, either, we're going to give it another try tomorrow (after acquiring another patch kit - we used both large patches today). It's hard to form the patch to the bladder with the bladder deflated.
Worst case, a side trip to HWH as Dave suggested which we'd have to call and set up, anyway, to make sure they have the bladder on our arrival.
As a backup plan, we need to isolate that slide bladder so we can run the HWH pump if needed for leveling/the other slide's bladder (right now, Steve's got the pump fuse pulled since it wants to otherwise keep running).
.
Tim - not sure on the logistics/method of taking it out ourselves (or reinstalling). We're here in a campground in Michigan for 2 1/2 weeks.
Michelle
You probably already know this but just in case.
You can isolate that bladder at the slide manifold in the utility bay.
There is an air shut off on each slide manifold.
Hey guys, I just left HWH on Friday. It is at exit 267 on the south side. I had to measure my opening and then they sent the bladders. It is expensive though. IT was 1700 for two bladders for me. I was told that the bladder is about thirty days out when I was there. You will have to shut off the bladder or your slide may not go in. On the newer coaches, if it does not sense that the bladder is deflated it will not push the slide room in.
In talking with the guy at HWH he said many people say the same thing. No more slides...... Sorry, you had that happen. It is not far for you to get there but it is a pain. I have seen duct tape used to keep water out in the rain on the trip to have it repaired too.
Bless you!
We knew there was a way, just hadn't dug into it yet. Been busy trying to figure out the repair logistics, eat dinner, research bicycle tube/inflatable boat patching as the interim solution. You've saved us time and we much appreciate it!
Michelle
I talked with Derrick at MOT about patching and he said he tried it one time but pulled the bladder out. It did not hold... I hope you have better luck.
Also on the air, I was there when Mike Rogers called a guy in our chapter who had a new Nimbus and the slide would not come in. He said to use a vice grip to close it off. Also you should be able to keep the pump off as the other bladder will not really need air till you leave and the leveling is not going to check and you should have enough air to last a few days.
Steve:
You might try "Gorilla Tape" as a patch. This tape is super strong and will bond to anything. You can get it at Walmart, Lowes, or Home Depot.
To take it a step further.
I added a shut off valve under the slide between the hose coming from Slide Manifold and the bladder hose.
This way I could isolate a leak in the bladder or the hose going to it.
Air leaks are a PITA. to troubleshoot :o
Barry,
My manifolds are labeled #1 and #2, which is the bedroom? I'd guess number 2.
Thanks - we went out this morning and purchased (another) car tire patch kit and a bike tube repair kits as well as Gorilla Tape and a few clamps.... Steve is working on the coach now to see if any of these give us a temporary solution and I have a call in to HWH (divide and conquer is our motto).
Michelle
I don't have the coach here to check.
But you can turn off one of the valves one at a time and see which bladder does not deflate.
By the way, I had both shut off valves leaking from behind the stem.
I ordered new ones from HWH and one of them leaked.
So I replaced them with Ball valves.
Hi Barry,
Where would the valve be for an '02 320 with a LR slide only?
Jim
Barry - what was your source for Ball valves? We are close to both HD and Lowes; knowing we have one existing valve leaking we might as well upgrade as you did if we can while we're here.
Michelle
I bought them at Home Depot but I am sure any hardware store carries them.
Nothing special about them and used on lots of things.
I am only familiar with my coach.
The slide manifolds are located in the "Electronics Bay" which is on the Drivers side 3rd bay.
Also houses the HWH compressor, Aux compressor, Inverter and Circuit Breaker Panel on the back wall if that helps.
Michelle,
We were at HWH in Moscow, IA last September. I am pretty sure the hourly rate was $37.50. If HWH can install a bladder for you, you will save a lot of money vs driving to Nac and paying $110 or $100 per hour.
George, we were at HWH on Friday, and we were charged $105 for 1.5 hours of labor or $70/hr. We WISH it was $37.50... The good news was our coach seemed to be there longer than 1.5 hours and they didn't bill for the whole time it was in the bay. They also replaced a leaking slide lock solenoid with new but billed us for the rebuilt price ($108), telling us they were sure we didn't want to wait two hours while they rebuilt it.
The solenoid didn't leak for the first several hundred miles. And then it did. Rattle, rattle, rattle.
We had free 50amp electricity and were treated very well. It's a pleasant place to stop.
Michelle,
I am sorry for the mis-information. I will have to see if I still have the invoice. I know it was really low for the amount of time we were there.
Guess the mind is beginning to go [?] along with the coach.
George
Don't worry about it, George. It turns out HWH doesn't have an appointment available until late September, so we'll be taking the coach to MOT for the work.
We picked up some weatherstripping to "jam" into the gap for now. Anyone have experience on how best to seal the gap/keep the weatherstripping in place while we're driving? Something that wouldn't damage the paint would be nice. We're not sure what the adhesive on duct tape would do, especially when heated by the sun.
Michelle
I used duct tape all the way around to keep the air out with no problem when my rear bladder was leaking.
Any adhesive that might come off is easily removed.
After you seal the slide opening that should get you by until you get the new bladder.
The adhesive in the duct tape is very aggressive and leaves a mess after you remove it. Fortunately, the use of WD-40 removes the adhesive with light rubbing (use a microfiber cloth). It's like magic, it works and I've done this many times. Just be patient and don't rub too hard so as to not scratch the fine finish.
On the downside, the adhesive used is very sensitive to temperature. It will "melt" under the higher temps on the road going home. It may not hold or just slide a bit, but if you keep an eye on it, you should be fine all the way home.
Hi Michelle and Steve,
If you can get to a furniture upholstery shop, have them cut some strips of foam rubber. You might have to try a few samples of different thickness's so see what size you will need. You need it as large as you can, and yet be able to crush it down to width of the gap. By compressing, and pushing it all the way in to where it is flush with
the outside, I doubt that it will come out. Won't hurt the paint at all. Try and get one of those window spoons that they use to replace windows and window rubber. These are non-metal and shouldn't cut the foam rubber.
Good luck,
LynnD
'01 GV
I am not sure about the config. of the bladder since I have not been exposed to slides, but just thinking(dangerous) would the foam pipe insulation (round) that have variable diameters be of any help. Lowes or ? carry this. jc
You are dealing with a small amount of space between the bladder and the slide.
I saw Les Ettinger's coach pull into FT closed off with duct tape. He did the maritimes with it one year that way or something like that.
Unless you are planning to have some repainting done or paying someone a lot of money to get the duct tape residue off your coach, I would not use duct tape. Call James Stallings. He can tell you what to use that won't take the paint with it when you get to MOT. I have found that almost any kind of masking/duct tape is affected by sitting in direct sunlight. So you might want to ask him about that, too.
Good luck.
I have been using duct tape to hold my lower bay door closed for about a year. Have left it on for weeks in sun. When removed, sometimes adhesive stays on paint, and some of the "threads". Longer you leave it on, worse it is. Hasn"t lifted paint yet in about 20 applications. Goo Gone takes off the adhesive pretty easily, when I get around to cleaning it up.
Qw
I would duct tape it with 3M and drive for rpairs in NAC. Have them save old bladder and send it to one of the outfits in FL that specializes in repairing inflat!le boats. The bladder is a $1,000 part. Plus labor to remove the slide and install. I am very careful with mine having replaced it once.
When in NAC this fall I hope that James can adjust the door so I don't need the duct tape anymore.....
I replaced two bladders this april. The cost was written on the box and I kind of choked. IT was 1700 bucks for the bladder and no labor. On my 01, you have to pull the slide out to change them. That is about 4 hours to pull and about 4 hours to install the bladder and another 8 hours plus to reinstall. You can figure the price at a hundred bucks an hour..... Ouch and there was more than one guy working at times.
Steve and Michelle, Since I don't have slides take this for what its worth.
I have had some success with a product called " SHOE GOO " or " GOOP ", It sticks well to synthetic rubbers and plastics and MIGHT stick to your bladder. You can get it at Walmart or Ace hardware in a tube. I suspect that it is based on silicon adhesive but it stays flexible and conforms to almost any shape.
Good Luck
Bumping this up since we still have the question that Steve asked in reply #2.
Our front slide has some kind of guide/containment ledge at the center bottom where you can see the slide bladder (it's a flat piece on top of the bladder in the channel area)

Our rear slide, the one with the failed bladder, does not. And the leak initiated at this location

For those with coaches having similar slide designs, which configuration do you have? We're thinking we should see about adding the guide to the rear slide if possible when we have the bladder replaced. The theory is that without the bracket, the bladder is free to expand in that location more than in others, possibly creating a weakness over time.
Michelle
Steve and Michelle.... Any chance of getting some labels on the images? I can't really tell what is what.
Also, it would be very useful if you took some photos during the repair so we can see what the inside actually looks like. It might not apply directly to ours since we only have the living room slide, but it would be of interest nonetheless.
Thanks for all the info so far.
Steve will as soon as he's done replacing our water pump (with HUGE thanks to Peter Martin for procuring one for us locally here in Cinci!)
Edited to add - Done! See above.
Definitely in the plan.
Michelle
I have a piece over the bladder in that track that limits the expansion of the bladder in that area.
Is this what you are referring to?
Mine also has a piece that prevents 'uncontained' expansion of the bladder and looks like Barry's photos on both slides.
Bingo! Looks like we're missing a part. We weren't sure if it was normal for the larger slide and not the smaller. Now we know they should both have that part. Clearly hasn't been an issue in the 8 years of our coach's life, but certainly something we want to have added/amended to preserve the new bladder.
"applauds" to both of you :)
Michelle
Recently I tried a slide seal repair on my 2002 and so far it has worked - obviously my fingers remain crossed. It consists of applying layers of Shoe Goo diluted with toluene to a consistency of paint and a cloth patch of silk. My tear was small, about 1/3", but I'm told it works on far bigger areas too. The trick is to have access to the damaged area and to clean everything well with alcohol first. It is technique sensitive. It might be easier to call me for the detailed steps involved at 308-440-5154. It's certainly worth a try before you spring for a new bladder and lots of labor.
Used this method when my '03 original living room slide bladder developed a leak about 1-1/2" long. The compressor had been running for long stretches, and finally it wouldn't shut off at all. Once the leak got this big, it was obvious where the air was escaping.
The leak was on the left side, about 1/2 way up, a vertical tear, luckily right in the middle of the outside of the bladder, with just the right amount of access.
After cleaning well with alcohol, and taping off the area, started with cutting a strip of silk that would cover the tear by about a 1/2 longer on each end, and as wide as possible on each side. Painted on the first layer of the thinned-out mixture of zylene and Amazing Goop (didn't have toluene.) Placed the silk strip over the tear, and painted on a second coat of the Goop mixture. Let this dry for about five hours. Added four subsequent thin layers of the Goop mixture, over two days. Since we were leaving for a trip the next day, there was no time for any additional layers.
Right before leaving, added low tack painter's tape around the whole slide opening, and did not re-inflate the bladder until arriving in Colorado the next day.
By the time we arrived, a few sections of the lightweight tape had torn, but it was fine, never heard any wind noise in the coach. After removing the tape, which came off easily, started the slide inflation process, and the repair worked! The compressor was heard only once the whole week-long trip. I'm sure this bladder will need replacement eventually, but for now, the repair is doing great. The slide is only opened a few times per year, so not sure if that has anything to do with it lasting this long.
Photos attached are before and after.
Nice job!
So during the change on my seal I was surprised at how easily I could tear the seal by hand. Think 20 year old rubber product. The new seal we installed is much firmer and built a little different with having a fin in the middle of the sealing area. During retraction it lays over flat. Im surer were the new seals flexes much more than the old will also be a issue, but with no pressure it still stays in contact with the slide sealing much better. Im confident that your patch will last till the next location gives up. Great job. 👍👍
Thanks for bringing this one back.