1. Before departing I noticed water dripping pretty fast from a tube under the front end and located just to the passenger side of the generator. I had the generator running and it had been running for about 15 or 20 minutes. I had not used the A/C's that day. I had also just set the level system to "travel" which tilted us a fair bit. This tube runs up and among some wires. The water was clear and after 5 minutes or so it stopped running. Judging from the size of the wet spot on the ground, I think there was less than 2 cups of water that came out of it. Does anyone know what that tube drains?
2. After reading other posts, I decided to exercise the service brake also before departing. While I was at it I decided to test the low air pressure warning buzzer. I was on and off the brake until the air pressure was below 62 psi, the threshold as stated in my manual page 4-4, and there was no buzzer and no warning light. In thinking about it, there is no buzzer after I first start the engine when the air pressure is zero and builds up to 120 psi. How is this buzzer supposed to work? Is mine just inop?
Thanks for any guidance.
Dick, if you had the dash A/C on, the answer is easy. The area you describe is where the evaporator coil drains to the outside of the coach. When the coach tilted, the drain pan under the dash allowed the condensation from the coil to drain.
On the air pressure issue and the warning buzzer I would only ask if the buzzer is working when other warnings should sound? Example, if the TV antenna is up and the engine running, do you get a warning? You may have a short in the dash giving you this problem.
1. I would guess that you dumped some condensate from the dash air conditioning system. My cars and coach frequently dump some condensate when they change position, enough if they have not been running for hours.
2. On our coach, the alarm will sound if the key is on and the pressure for front or rear brake systems is below 60 psi. We set the leveling system to "travel," and turn on the key. If pressure is low, the alarm will sound. After oil pressure is up, we increase engine speed to about 1,000 rpm with the accelerator pedal, or with the cruise control. When air pressure hits about 50 psi, the step folds up. At about 60-70 psi, the alarm cease to sound. We wait until pressure is at least 90 psi to move the coach.
Today we did the "air brake test" drill today as part of Wife's preparation to take the road test portion of the driver's license test for a class B license. The sequence we performed was:
Start the engine and wait until air pressure tops 100 psi
Stop engine
Depress brake pedal and hold for 60 seconds to verify that pressure does not drop for one minute while the pedal is depressed
Start the engine (we start the engine to keep the alarm from sounding while the key is on and the parking brake is released)
Release the parking brake (be SURE the wheels are chocked or you are on LEVEL GROUND, otherwise the coach WILL MOVE)
Press and release the brake pedal repeatedly to lower air pressure for the brakes
At about 60 psi, the audible alarm will sound, and a "Low Pressure" light will illuminate on the dash
Continue pressing and releasing the brake pedal
At about 30 psi, the parking brake should engage
If all works as described, safety features are functioning properly
If the alarm doesn't sound, or the parking brake doesn't engage at the appropriate pressures, something is wrong. You should have it repaired.
On our coach, the same audible alarm is used for brake pressure, turn signals, hazard signals, and leveling system not in travel mode. If you don't have an audible alarm for any of those events, the sounder may not be working properly. We used a pieces of tape over the sounder to adjust the volume. Another contributor indicated that there is an adjustment for the volume, but I was satisfied with the "tape" solution.
Thank you Peter. I think that explains the drain issue. I always look under the front for any leaks, drips, etc. when we stop and do a "walk around". I have never seen it drip before, but the coach was always level.
We don't get any audible alarms when I turn the key ON, all I hear are the 8 clicks. Maybe that's a blessing, but if the air pressure ever dropped I would definitely want to be alerted. I know I could be a lot better at visually monitoring the dash gauges.
Thanks J. D.
I think something must be wrong with my sounder unit. I thought is was funny that there was no audible sound when the turn signal was on. Same for the hazard lights.
Can you give me a clue on where to find this device and maybe how to troubleshoot it?
Many people have disconnected the buzzer since they are so loud. On one of my coaches I out a bit of tape over it so it would not be so loud too but they work and I can here it. The clicks are the abs sensors setting.
On my 1997 U295, the buzzer is hanging by two wires behind the dash. It is a black, cylindrical object that is about 1" in diameter and 3/4" long. It is about half way between the center of the panel and the left side of the panel. I found my by lifting the cover over the back of the instrument cluster and searching for the noise maker. Since your buzzer doesn't sound, it will be more difficult to find.
It may have been removed or disabled because it was loud and annoying. After having a coach without a "geezer alarms" on the turn signals, we were pleases to have the noise maker. Since we adjusted the sound level, we are even more pleased to have it.
The buzzer may be in a different location in a later model coach.
A failed buzzer wouldn't be a "trip stopper," but I recommend you get it fixed. If you use the coach as your vehicle for a class B driver's license test, the low pressure alarm will probably have to be audible in order to pass the vehicle inspection.
Its in the same place behind the dash
For the uninitiated, Foretravel (or at least Mark Harvey) calls this thing an "enunciator". I have muffled all of mine, 4 coaches, with electric tape and cotton. It does help, my wife says. I am so hard of hearing that she has to tell me sometimes when the turn signal hasn't cancelled after a minor turn, ramp entries, etc. Maybe I ought to "unmuffle" this one.
Thank you all.
DW (I like this) had to take her table, water feature and decorations off the steering wheel. I found the "enunciator". One wire had been removed. After reattaching it, I now have a not too unpleasant "chime" sound. I hope I won't be disabling it again in the future. :))
This is a terrific resource.
I do not know about the later coaches but my "buzzer" is actually a piezoelectric device called a Sonalert by Mallory and is located in the dash behind the speedometer. It is very loud but I have never gotten around to putting a pot (variable resistor) in the voltage lead to it to adjust the sound level. Mallory make a number of different devices and has articles on their website about their sound levels.
Put a piece of electrical tape across part of the piezoelectric's center sound opening and you will find it works better than a variable resistor.