Would anyone be able to give me a good source for LED replacements lights for the under cabinet puck lights? I spoke with Bill G. late last year and he suggested I stay away from the direct imports from China, as they were failing in his coach.
Thanks,
Brad
2000 U320 4000
I have replaced nearly all mine with LEDs found at www.superbrightleds.com (http://www.superbrightleds.com). I went with the warm white replacements (G4-WWHP10-D Warm white ($15)). The color is a very close match to the halogen bulbs. In about 8 months of somewhat limited use, no failures.
I also used Superbrightleds as the source for replacement of my bay storage lights with some LED strip lights. They are not the cheapest around, and I'm pretty sure they get their LEDs from China, but the quality and service has been good.
We also use warm white LEDs for our replacement undercabinet lights.
Make sure to choose ones that have a constant current (buck driver) control, some of the cheaper models do not. You usually see an operating voltage range (usually 8-20 or 30 volts), not a single (12V) voltage, for these bulbs. In the RV/marine application these will have better life and more stable brightness.
Here's a useful discussion of constant current control http://www.marinebeam.com/whyounetokna.html (http://www.marinebeam.com/whyounetokna.html) although the technology for warm white is now at least 140 lumens, IIRC. (We didn't get our lights from that particular supplier - they are more expensive than most sources).
Michelle
Brad,
I can only give you half a loaf to your answer. On line I found GE ProLine 10 bulbs. What is so good about these bulbs is that they are Made in Hungary. They were not particularly expensive so I bought two cartons (12 bulbs each) well over a year ago and have only used about 4 of the bulbs. They are 12 Volt, 140 lumens, 10 watt, rated for 2000 hours.
UPC code is 0 43168249249
Sorry I don't know where I bought them, but a Google search will find several sources of the bulb.
Will I need a converter or extra inverter to run the Led lights? I currently have the G-4 halogen puck lights.
No extra power, in fact, LEDs are lower power (and MUCH less heat!).
For the 10W equivalent halogen, the LEDs we used are less than 200 mA @ 12VDC, or 2.4 Watts nominal.
Michelle
The heat factor is why we never used those lights.
But now that we replaced them with LED's we use them a lot.
It was a great improvement and just as much light.
We are going to change over all the inside lighting to LED's now.
Thank you all...didn't mean to "hijack" post but would you have suggestions for new puck lights?
My puck lights bezels have been falling from under the cabinet and braking. FT and MOT don't have the original style. I found these but would change the bulb to LED.
https://www.socallighting.com/product.php?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=SL&Product_Code=SUPH1 (https://www.socallighting.com/product.php?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=SL&Product_Code=SUPH1)
Thanks for the input and I will order from SuperBright as they do include the buck driver.
Brad
I would like to get OE size under cabinet puck lights that are already LED type would anybody know where I could get them? My puck lights bezels have falling down from time and break. I have found these but they are the halogen type...https://www.socallighting.com/product.php?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=SL&Product_Code=SUPH1 (https://www.socallighting.com/product.php?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=SL&Product_Code=SUPH1)
I read the recently posted LED puck lights here but I need several fixtures and it would be nice if it were already converted, with the buck driver. Thanks
Will any of these work for you?
http://www.illumenate.com/amexundercabinet.htm (http://www.illumenate.com/amexundercabinet.htm)
Thank you Mr. Barry I hadn't seen those but they are the right size for my FT...Thank you, also the price is right. Thanks again
If you replace all under-cabinet lights, be sure to offer the old ones for sale here.
Steve and Michelle indicated that they changed to LED lights but did not share their source. I was wondering if they could share that info. I have the halogen puck lights under cabinets and over head in my 06 Phenix. $2 of them to be exact and I do not like the heat they put out so I need to change them all.
I am bringing up a subject that I asked about led lights last spring. My 2009 Phenix has the G4 type lamps both 10watt and 20 watt, I have seen some for 10 watt and I am still unsure which I should order. any of you experts that have gone this way please share. I don't want to replace the entire fixture if it it possible to do other wise.I am still getting used to this new website so I will make a lot of errors. thanks Jim Busby 2009 Phenix and Honda CRV
Jim,
Not experts, but we have converted some of our puck lights to LED. Steve did a lot of research first.
Our pucks are 10 Watt, so we used 120 lumen Warm white LEDs. Warm white has a much more pleasant (to us) appearance and is closer to the halogen color that cool (which will look like fluorescent). Warm and Cool describe the color temperature. Halogens and incandescents are around 2700-3000, so look for LEDs with similar color temperatures.
Important things to look for - constant current control (buck driver). These give constant light output despite varying battery charge levels. Automotive LEDs, while cheaper, WILL NOT DO THIS, and will also be much shorter-lived. If you see a voltage range (say, 8-30 volts DC) for the bulb and not just a single "12V", then you will have the proper control circuitry. You'll probably pay between $11 and $15 per 10 watt equivalent puck replacement LED "bulb" (at least those are the prices I see online today).
Also, color rendering index. The higher, the better as this is how "true" colors will appear under the light.
Almost all of the puck light LEDs we've seen are the same form factor, about 1.25" diameter. While this works great in our undercounter fixtures, our ceiling fixtures need to be modified so that the puck is centered in the lens. For this reason, we haven't changed our ceiling lights. I've heard it's just an issue with the 2003-era coaches, so you might want to get a LED puck and see if you like how it fits.
All ours are 10 watt fixtures, so we haven't done any research into 20 watt replacements.
Michelle
Michelle,
Did Steve have to remove the metal insert inside the undercounter fixtures? I could not get my LED to fit without removing the insert and it has not caused any issued to date. I'm waiting on some 9 LED's, priced at $9.50, to compare to my 10 LED's I installed under the sink.
Thanks,
Brad
2000 U320 4000
I had to remove the metal insert to get the LEDs to fit in my overhead lights. They just popped out.
Barry,
That is what I did too. Just wanted to make sure that is what everyone else was doing. I figure I'm saving a few pounds in weight also.
Thanks,
Brad
2000 U320 4000
Jim,
I just installed (25) 9 LED WW lights I purchased from LED Wholesalers for $9.50 and though a little dimmer than my 10 LED's they are great for the bedroom and living areas. Since I needed 25 more lights, the almost $5.00 per light savings made it worthwhile. The 9 LED WW light is rated at 126 lumen's which would work for your 10 watt bulb.
http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=644 (http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=644)
Thanks,
Here is a reprint of something I posted on the old YAHOO forum early this year:
I bought my LED's at LEDwholesalers.com - which is their name as well as web address. They are located in California.
I used bulb #1109ww, Warm White 140 Lumen G4 Base 10 SMD LED Bulb. I first tried cool white (which is 180 lumens)and they were very stark; not an acceptable - to me - appearance.
They offered to exchange the CW for WW. I am not aware of the lumen level for the old 10w halogen bulbs, but on a side-by-side comparison it seems to me that the new LED provides as much light as the old halogens. On a side-by-side comparison, the LED has a slight yellow tinge. But when they are all LED's I don't notice such a tinge. Bottom line is that I am totally satisfied with this bulb. The list price is $14 ea. but they will give a 10% discount for volume purchase (I bought 20 at a time). They shipped to me USPS and they arrived in about 5 days - cost of ~$6 per order.
I ordered by phone. I found them to be very polite, helpful and efficient. I have had no problems or issues with the 54 bulbs I have changed out - some of them have been in service now for over a year. They are a perfect fit in the old halogen fixtures - no modification required. As others have said, they use only a fraction of the power used by a halogen bulb with no hear. Can't be used in a reostat controled fixture.
Regards to all,
John Lang
When you guys say that the metal inserts that need to be removed in the puck lights to put the LED's in just "popped out", what do you mean by that?
Did you pry with a screwdriver, pull with your fingers, or what? I tried both and it seems that it really, really wants to stay in.
Thanks,
Mike B
I took a slim screw driver and inserted it into the housing between the reflector and the housing wall. Once I got the screwdriver inserted far enough to be near the reflector tab, I gently twisted the screwdriver to create space for the tab to clear the housing and the reflector popped out.
I was concerned that the housing might split if I used too much force, but didn't break any in the 20 I have replaced.
Good luck.
Thanks Bob,
I'll see how many my club fingers and super strength can break! ::)
I also converted my halogen puck lights to LED. I used the warm white variety, and still found the light to be too "harsh". A very simple solution was offered by a friend of mine in the film business. He provided me with a sheet of thin, colored acetate film that he uses to change the "color" of his stage lighting. I simply cut out circles of the proper diameter to lay inside the bezel, and on top of the lens to provide the color I wanted. I chose "golden sunrise", and I think the effect is superb. The LED's generate almost no heat, so there is no issue with having the acetate film inside the bezel. The puck lights have become my prefered light source in the coach.
David VanAmburg
'99 U320 LE 42ft
Absolutely Brilliant!!! No pun intended.
Mike,
I did exactly the same thing as Bob. If I had a reflector that didn't pop out fairly easily then I would try the screw driver on the other tab. Most pop out the first try, but then a few were very hard to remove. If the first one you try does not pop out just go on to the next one. This will allow you to see how they are attached and by the time you do the first ten or so you become pretty good. Then go back to the hard ones. The hardest part for me was keeping my glasses on while twisting my head under the bedside table puck light!
Thanks,
I am at the beginning stage of considering changing my puck lites etc inside to LED as the whole outside lighting is LED and I like it. What I have done on one bank of puck lights is replaced the on/off switch with a variable dimmer switch and that has drastically reduced the light to a more acceptible level and of course reduced the amps drawn from around 4 amps to less than 1 when they are dimmed. We like the level more and it is good for watching tv or entertaining. I am going to do the sets on the passenger side to dining area too. This also cuts down on the heat issue. When we need full light you just turn it up.
John
John,
What did you use and where did you get the LEDs used in your porch light?
John,
I would expect there might be problems using a dimmer with some LED light arrays. Many of the "better" arrays have components to keep the voltage to the LEDs constant if the input voltage is in an appropriate range. That's great if you want a constant level of light. If you want to dim the LEDs, you would want an array that is suitable for use with a dimmer.
John's puck lights are still halogen.
correct they are still Halogen.
George, I was incorrect in my statement on ALL light outside are LED as the porch is still as old--sorry. You saw the rear lights in person and they do look good don't they?
john
No sweat, John --
A least you know that we read every word you type:).
And yes, you have unique and great looking tail lights.
I second MarineBeam LED Lighting. We're replacing all our halogens with LED's and have been working with Jeff Field there. He's sent me at least a dozen different lights to try out for fit and luminosity that I just send back if not a good fit. On some odd fixtures, I sent him some closeup pics and he's been right on the money in his suggestions.
They're making replacements for the florescent lights that I'm also interested in. I can't say enough about these guys - really fast shipping and awsome follow-up support. Top notch business.
Once you have them off, grind a notch in the top edge so that you can get the screw driver blade under it without a problem. When reinstalling, put the notch toward the rear, out of sight.