I thought I had this one all buttoned up. Just checked the pressure on the blue accumulator water tank. With a faucet open the pressure ranges from 23 to 42 psi. Is it the bottom number that should be around 23 - 25psi?
George,
You should be checking accumulator tank pressure with a faucet open, no city water supply and water pump off.
Brett,
Are you sure about having city water turned off? Following your directions I get 0.0 psi and not much water exits the faucet.
However, with city water on, the pump off and a faucet open I get 6.5 psi. It should be 23 when done properly. I don't remember the proper way.
Thanks
George
Okay George, I'm going to give you MY two cents worth, even though you didn't go look at my dam while you where up by Libby ;D My knowledge on this subject is only based on the fact that I just looked at a new accumulator. It said it was factory charged to 20 psi. (to be field adjusted to 2 lbs below your pump start up pressure I believe.) Based on that, I would agree with Amos, you should be getting your 23 lb reading with no outside pressure (city water, etc.)
Here is Shurflo's recommendation.
http://www.shurflo.com/files/Education-Center/Product%20Manuals/Water%20System%20Accessories/911-731_D_24oz.Accumulator%20Tank%20182-100%20200.pdf (http://www.shurflo.com/files/Education-Center/Product%20Manuals/Water%20System%20Accessories/911-731_D_24oz.Accumulator%20Tank%20182-100%20200.pdf)
I think I'll go check my accumulator. George has presented me another opportunity to learn something about my coach.
Gayland,
What am I forgetting here? Your dam at Libby??
Sounds as though I have had a senior moment or two.
I just reset the pressure on my water pressure accumulator. Based on the Shurflo brochure and my understanding of what we are trying to accomplish with the accumulator, I did the following:
1) Remove any external water supply or source of pressure
2) Turn pump off, open faucet fully to relieve pressure
3) Set accumulator ~20 psi in order to check start/stop pressures on pump switch
4) Turn pump on, open faucet enough that pump will cycle, check start/stop pressures on my system -- 25/40 psi
5) Turn pump off, open faucet fully to remove pressure in pipes
6) Set accumulator pressure to 25 psi, which equals the start pressure for my pump
7) Check for proper cycling and pressure
8) Celebrate that it seems to work a bit better, nothing broke, and no one was injured!
That should allow the accumulator to fully empty at the same time that the pump starts. It will allow the accumulator to accept the largest charge of water and give the greatest buffering of the system. This seems to make sense to this newbie. I look forward to replies from voices of experience in case I got something wrong.
J.D.
No. Using your outline:
1) Remove any external water supply or source of pressure
2) Turn pump off, open faucet fully to relieve pressure
3) Set accumulator PSI to pump cut-in PSI minus 2 PSI-- 25-2= 25 PSI for Shru-flo standard pump. If any water comes out accumulator tank valve when you check PSI, the diaphragm is ruptured and accumulator needs to be replaced.
4) Check for proper cycling and pressure
Brett Wolfe
How do I do step 3?
3) Set accumulator PSI to pump cut-in PSI minus 2 PSI-- 25-2= 25 PSI for Shru-flo standard pump.
I don't know if Bret is still on but I will tell you what I did. Of course my memory is sometimes clouded but here goes. Once everything is buttoned up, run water so that the pump will cycle. Whatever the pressure is when the pump kicks on is your base line pressure. Check it two or three times to insure get the best number. Then empty the system with the pump off to relieve all of the line pressure. Check the tank pressure again and set it a 2 lbs less than the base line pressure you just discovered.
I think thats it. Brett, if I said something wrong, please correct.
Thank you very much, Kent.
I will do the test this morning.
Easy, use a bicycle tire pump or even on-board coach compressed air. Just like airing a tire up to 23 PSI!
Brett Wolfe