Am I the only person who has difficulty inserting tail light bulbs into interior coach fixtures? Some bulbs go in easily and one or two are a real bear to properly set in the socket.
Has anyone found a way to overcome this problem?
George,
Interior coach fixtures require special bulbs that are not compatible with ordinary automotive bulbs. Depending on the bulb, they have base and candlepower differences. If you use ordinary automotive bulbs, they will melt the plastic lenses and housings. You will need to find the proper bulbs at a RV parts house or on line.
The swing arm lights over the bed on my '99 U320 take a lot of pushing to get the replacement bulbs into the sockets.
A good idea when replacing this type of bulb is to always wear a good leather glove just in case you push too hard and the bulb breaks.
Although these bulbs have two contacts in the base they are not auto bulbs that have two filaments. Since there is no common ground in a MH one contact is ground and the other is hot, unlike an auto where both contacts are hot and bulb base acts as ground. The bases are just enough different that forcing an auto bulb into a MH base may damage the base socket.
Try CW for replacements.
Agreed. I wrap the bulb with a thick cloth or the non-skid shelf material
Well. I learn stuff here all the time. I "assumed" that since I buy the bulbs at NAPA that they were for cars. They sure look a lot like the bulbs I used to use for taillight replacements in my first few cars. I guess that as long as I follow the size of what is in each fixture now that I will be o.k.
George, they look like standard 1157 auto tail light bulbs but the auto bulbs have offset pins. The ones for our coach are single filament and their locking pins are parrellel to one another. Trying to force the offset pins is why you are having so much difficulty. Once they have been forced in the socket becomes loose and the light will begin to flicker or go out all by themselves. I don't remember the correct bulb number but I will check my coach later tonight and post the correct bulb. I was able to order some from a NAPA store at $3.57 per bulb.
Using a single filament bulb with only one contact point will blow the fuse and as said before, if you get the 1157 pushed in where the brake light filament lights, you can melt the socket and possibly catch the shade on fire or at least melt it.
Hi Kent,
Thanks for the info. I did not know about the pins being offset. The bulbs I am using are 1067 and the contact points are not offset. One goes in easily, the other is a bear.
tweetys.com has several pages of specialized RV bulbs. But get your do not flourescents there. There is a link for a another place here somewhere that has outstanding prices for them
George, the 1076 is the correct bulb. My bet is that someone previously tried to put an 1157 or some other offset pin bulb in the socket and buggered up the slots. The other possibility is that someone used an O ring to help stabilize the bulb, this trick I learned at FOT two years ago, and the O ring is stuck down in the socket. It is pretty typical that the sockets have been previously damaged and the bulbs tend to flicker on and off. The O ring helps hold the bulb in place. Look down in the socket and check for an errant O ring. Worst case scenario is having to buy a new light fixture, pretty common purchase at FOT.
Another thing that happens is that the spring contacts in the bottom get tired and don't make contact with the bulb. To restore them, I use a long safety pin or a paper clip bent at the end to get under the contacts. Make sure the lamp is off, then gently pull the contacts up a little.