I saw where one poster indicated he turned his boost switch on when hooked up at home. Any risk to leaving the boost on all the time while plugged in? Even if it sits for months like that?
I don't like to leave it on after the engine batteries are charged.
If power goes out, both sets of batteries will be depleting.
The charging voltage is different for both sets of batteries.
So we put in a "Trik-l-start" and never use the boost anymore.
http://beamalarm.com/Documents/trik-l-start.htm (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/trik-l-start.htm)
I usually leave the boost switch on and posted that information. Barry's advice is excellent regarding the possibility of a power failure, and the possibility of different charging requirements.
I use AGM batteries for house and for starting, so I expect the charging characteristics would be sufficiently similar to gang them. I keep the coach at home, so we know if the power goes down. I also leave the generator set for automatic starting in case the house batteries go down. (I should verify that automatic start works. We have only had our coach since April, and we have never depleted the batteries far enough to trigger an automatic start.)
I am comfortable leaving the boost switch on because of how we store our coach. If you store your coach off site, it might be prudent to leave the boost switch turned off. If you store the coach for a long time off site, the best action may be to disconnect the battery terminals.
As always, your results may vary. ;D
Everyone has their reasons for what ever they do, and for me, I only use the Boost feature to crank the Cummins engine only . For keeping the engine batteries up, I added a Battery Tender, 800 ma water proof and wired it into the electric outlet under the bed.
Every time I look at the light, it indicates full charge. It is always on when connected to generator or outside power and not from the inverter charger line.
The Battery Tender will not over charge, we use lots of them in the cheap line of generators with no issues. Cost about $30.00.
What got my attention to the DC engine issues, when I thought my engine alternator had problems, had it rebuilt, new bearings, brushes and regualtor. Still had problem, then found the real problem was a poor ground connection between battery Neg and chassis / engine ground. Added a 2/0 cable between battery Neg term. and chassis. Bingo, solved all the problems. then added the Battery Tender.
Works for me.
Nice to have choices.
Dave
The previous owner had put a small charger, (not Battery Tender, but SOB) in the engine compartment. It was plugged to the block heater outlet and was left on all the time. The block heater was unplugged. That's fine for south Texas, but maybe not so good for Montana in December.
I discovered that previous owner had wired his satellite telephone into the chassis battery rather than the house batteries. I expect he may have had problems as a result of that setup, and added the battery charger to mitigate the problem.
I recently replaced the starter batteries and decided that the charging regime of the inverter/charger system would provide an appropriate float voltage for the chassis battery as well as the house batteries if the boost switch was left on. Our coach remains plugged in to a reliable power source which we monitor closely.
The battery tender would provide an excellent maintenance charge. I use one on my Goldwing. People have reported good success with the Trik-L-Start. The Trik-L-Start removes "check Boost switch" from the check list for start up or shut down. Choose what works best to protect your batteries.
Are you saying you never use the boost anymore when starting the engine?
___
best, paul
"Thriving not surviving" <(*¿*)>
Paul Schaye (at 2008 NYC Marathon)
See our blog at LazyDazers.com
I have never used the boost to start the engine.
My engine batteries have always been adequate by themselves.
I have always thought the boost was there in case the engine batteries were low and needed help.
I never used the boost to start until I heard James T recommended it.
I also always pre-heat the engine.
___
best, paul
"Thriving not surviving" <(*¿*)>
Paul Schaye (at 2008 NYC Marathon)
See our blog at LazyDazers.com
I have to chime in. I never use the boost switch unless there is a problem with my starting batteries. This has only occurred twice.
Alton, from the FOT shop, told me that when the engine is off the inverter/charger keeps both sets of batteries charged even if the boost switch is off. I have a new Ion 75 AMP smart inverter/charger and new Lead Acid starting batteries and never have starting problems. In cold temps I use the engine heater and the ether if it doesn't start within 10 seconds. Usually the engine starts immediately without any assistance.
'
Does anyone know if Alton was right? Will all batteries be charged without using the boost switch?
Kent,
Though coach wiring can vary, I know that our 1993 U240's OE converter only charged the house battery.
Please CONFIRM that your chassis is being charged:
After a week or so with coach plugged in, boost switch OFF, use a digital voltmeter to check house and then chassis batteries.
If the voltage on the chassis battery is below that of the house battery, it is not being charged.
Brett
I do not believe he is correct on this one.
Diagram looks like it only charges house side.
I have never used the boost switch to start my engine, but my engine is the older mechanical Cummins 8.3. The newer computer controlled engines require longer start times for computer to do "checks" and allow engine to start.
The previous owners kept the boost switch on all the time, even though it would take both house and engine batteries to start the engine. We soon realized that the house batteries were bad, so engine batteries after time became low or bad and Heart inverter was working ALL the time trying to keep the batteries charged...also had circuit board go out on inverter.
We bought a weather proof battery maintainer for the engine batteries and used our heavy relay that FT used for the living room tv (cuts off tv when 12v dc is applied, or engine running) and brought 12v from the engine fuel start solenoid. Then added a plug where the breaker panel is in front of our bed. So when engine isn't running the maintainer is charging batteries if needed, and when engine is running it cuts off maintainer...we didn't know about the trik-l-start!
Brett, I have checked the voltage on both sets of batteries numerous times after the coach has sat for several weeks and it seems that all batteries are being charged. I can disconnect the hot lead from the starting battery and see if it is getting any juice from the inverter/charger. If it ever quits raining, I'll give it a try. I think I have checked this before with a positive result but I don't remember for sure.
Take good care of Jeff tomorrow. He needs guidance badly.
We have a friend that has a 1994 300 and he has a separate inverter and separate charger for his system would that also be what Kent has???
Barry, it looks to me like the converter leads to the C terminal on the Boost Solenoid. Doesn't that feed to the starting batteries full time? I presumed there was a diode that kept the starting batteries from discharging into the house system.
Kerry, no I have just the one converter/charger.
As I mentioned above, a LOT of these coaches are not per the OE wiring diagram (I know ours is NOT). I rewired ours over a decade ago.
As per the wiring schematic Barry posted, OE was for the converter to ONLY charge the house battery. Alternator (through diode-based isolator) to charge both banks.
Again, my suggestion to everyone with an older coach is to VERIFY, not ASSUME that both banks are being charged by the converter or inverter/charger. It only takes 5 minutes with a digital voltmeter.
Brett Wolfe
NO, terminal "C" only feeds the house battery just like the diagram shows (unless the boost switch is ON).
Brett Wolfe
Oops! You're right, I guess I shouldn't try to read a schematic after my nightly bourbon.
I will try to summarize correctly what James Triana told us last year at the Ladies Driving School.
If you don't use the Boost Switch when starting your engine, you will put more strain on the starting motor.
If you do use the boost switch you reduce that strain and lengthen the life of the starting motor.
In my '92 U-280, I know for a fact that when plugged in or on generator, only the house batteries are being charged without the boost switch being on. After talking to James T. myself several years ago (we've had our coach 7 years now), I routinely turn the "boost" switch on just before I hit the ignition switch to start the Cummins. In our configuration, we have just a single 8D lead-acid chassis (starting) battery. The engine starts immediately and I turn the boost switch off right away.
To ensure that the starting battery would be maintained while the coach is stored (and plugged in) at home, I installed a Trik-L-Start charger at least 4 years ago. We have had no issues with the chassis battery ever since.
We have a home made Trik L Start and also have never used boost to start.
Hi Don and Trudy
Don I use the same procedure as you to start our coach (cat 250) instant start, without boost a slower start. Once a week when working around the coach, i flip the boost on during the day to charge engine battery's ;)
Well, as usual I guess I am the odd ball. I can hear no difference in starter speed whether I use the boost switch or not and my coach typically starts immediately. I am now thinking that this could be due to my tiny engine, BT5.9, 230hp. See what you guys with the big engines have to endure.
I certainly would not suggest that one should ignore what James Triana says. After all, I was a Newbie just a few weeks ago.
When the sun comes up, I'm still going to disconnect the hot lead on the starting battery and see if it is getting any power from the inverter/charger with boost switch off. No, I don't have a morning bourbon.
What? No Jack Daniels cured bacon!!!!
As usual, thanks for all the useful info.
Our 8.3 Cummins mechanical fired up so quick I thot something was wrong with our M-11
The M-11 doesn't take a LONG time to start, just noticeably longer than the 8.3
I don't notice any different in starting time with or without boost on our M-11, I just feel it's good practice to follow James T's advice.
___
best, paul
"Thriving not surviving" <(*¿*)>
Paul Schaye (at 2008 NYC Marathon)
See our blog at LazyDazers.com
George, did you sneak into the Lady's Driving School?
I was told early on the use the boost switch when starting to make it easier on the starter motor and all related components. Higher voltage from all the batteries working means less current and faster starting.
However, because of this practice, I didn't know until some months after taking delivery of my pre-owned coach that one of the three paralleled AGM starting batteries had a shorted cell and was discharging the other two batteries. Once I Replaced the bad battery, I have been able to start without the boost switch even after sitting without shore power (and without the battery maintainer) for a week or more.
OK guys, I now know for sure that Alton and the FOT shop was full of hooey. I disconnected my starting batteries and checked the engine leads to see if the inverter/alternator was supplying any power. It was not as all of our wise OLD members said. When I turned on the boost switch, the leads had power.
Shows what I know.
My little 230 engine still apparently starts easier than the BIG BOYS and with only two L/A starting batteries. Red tops are expensive.
Naw. Husbands are welcome if they keep their mouths closed.
That's a relief. I was envisioning a disguise with a wig and housedress.
TMI this early in the morning!! :o :o :o
So does this mean I don't have to verify my M-11's oil pressure on my dash gauge at start because the electronics have already done it?
___
best, paul
"Thriving not surviving" <(*¿*)>
Paul Schaye (at 2008 NYC Marathon)
See our blog at LazyDazers.com
Three Mile Island?
___
best, paul
"Thriving not surviving" <(*¿*)>
Paul Schaye (at 2008 NYC Marathon)
See our blog at LazyDazers.com