The wife and I just finished our first four week five thousand mile jaunt and I have a couple of observations. First, and by far the most irritating appears to be a squeaky slide out. Not consistent but squeaks when in cross wind or under a little side stress. Not sure why and does not do it all the time. The second issue we had was with our fridge. Any thoughts from you veterans on fridge replacement. We are thinking about heading to NAC next year and having some updates done to our coach and would like any other thoughts from the group. One other issue we had was a smoking Aqua Hot issue. Can anyone recommend someone in So. Cal that works on those things.
Thanks again for all the valuable input on this site. We are new to RV lifestyle and really enjoyed our first trip.
If it is the rubber seal squeaking:
I use Protect all Rubber Seal Treatment on my slide bladder.
http://www.protectall.com/sorlong.aspx (http://www.protectall.com/sorlong.aspx)
Why are you replacing your refrigerator?
Here is a replacement chart that might help you find one that is a size match, otherwise you have to do some carpentry work. ::)
About 2 years ago, my 2001 U320, also had an intermittent creaking noise. As it turned out, the source was worn bushings around the locking pin holes causing the nonsecure locking pins to rub against the inner walls of the hole. There are 2 on top and 2 more on the bottom of my LR slideout.
Extend the slide and examine those holes; the bottom ones are the easiest to access; you'll have to retract the top awning to inspect the ones on top. FT of Texas had the bushings at the time; call Mike Grimes at Parts and describe the problem. Good luck
I am with Fiddler on the slide rubber bushings in the 4 locking pin holes. After talking with Mike @ MOT, I ordered the 4 bushings, and installed per his suggestion. That was to add two flat washers behind each bushing to space them out slightly, this makes for a more snug fitting.
I also used white RTV to secure them in the bottom of the hole. Do not want any RTV on the sides of hole, it could cause the pins to get sticky or glued in. Not sure how much hydraulic pressure the pins have in the retract position.
The bottom is easy, the top alittle more of a pain, but worth every second.
FWIW
Dave
The smoky Aqua-Hot means that the unit needs to serviced. Most likely the nozzle needs to be replaced. This should have been done as part of your PDI. If it was done, the smoke usually disappears after about 10 minutes of operation.
A year ago in my 2002 U-320, I spent time tracking down a metal-on-metal squeak seemingly coming from right behind and above the driver's head. Like door squeaks, it was somewhat temperature sensitive and quite annoying. It turned out to be behind the slide cabinet - the upper locking-pin base was not tight in it's mounting because the bolts that hold it had become loose. I gained access to this area by removing the Velcro adhered back-wall from the forward, upper storage cabinet.
During this time I also found there were no rubber grommets in any of the four slide locking pin receptacles though replacing them did not solve my noise problem. I received varying opinions from FOT about whether the rubber grommets were even necessary. It seemed pretty obvious though that they would be beneficial to stop squeaks.
Good luck,
Roger Berke is an authorized Aqua-Hot service expert, owner of the HydronicRVHeating Yahoo discussion group, and a Foretravel-owning member here (see our commercial listings board). You might want to contact him and see if he's going to be in your general area any time soon.
Michelle
I'm curious about the fridge as well. If it's not running cold enough, check the location of the thermocouple that slides up and down on the fins (look for a wire attached to a white "sleeve" that's on the (probably) far right fin. Slide up for colder, down for warmer.
If uneven cooling across the height of the fridge and icing on the fins, some icing is common since these aren't frost-free units. Using a small fan in the fridge, either a battery-powered unit or a 12V as some of us have wired in, to help circulate the air will improve the temperature uniformity and decrease the frost build-up some.
You may also want to check the seals on the doors. We haven't done it, but you can take a dollar bill or other slip of paper and close it in the door. Check for areas that the dollar slips out too easily. OR, at night, put a light inside the fridge, turn off the coach lights and close the door - look for light leaking around the seals. You may need to adjust the doors (not sure how to do this - Barry?)
Michelle
Thank you everyone for the help with the slide out issue. I will look to see if I have a rubber bushing issue. The fridge is not staying cold consistently when we are in motion. When parked works fine. I think it may be the fridge door seal not properly sealing but wife is having a bit of an issue with the darn thing. Gonna try the seal issue and see what happens. I will check with Roger Berke on the Aqua Hot. Thanks again for the incite. It is what makes this the greatest resource on the net for we (I love to say this) Foretravel owners.
I had the same fridge problem on SOB years ago. My propane pressure was low. Adjusted it at the regulator and it worked for several years.
How does it work when you are parked AND you are on propane.
After struggling with this issue for 2 years & replacing the cooling unit twice to no avail.
It turned out that a piece of styrofoam was missing on top of refer to prevent hot air coming over the top of refer.
My problem only happened when I was driving and on gas.
So I made a vent cover made of sunscreen material & buttoned it on the vent.
The problem went away.
So It had something to do with the air coming in the vent while driving.
But what was different on my coach than all others who are not having this issue.
I saw the bead of silicone at the top of refer & realized that there must have been something there originally that was not put back after replacing cooling unit.
Also you can test the Thermister
http://beamalarm.com/Documents/dometic-thermister-measurements.htm (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/dometic-thermister-measurements.htm)
Some additional things I came up with
http://beamalarm.com/Documents/replacing_refrigerator_cooling_unit.htm (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/replacing_refrigerator_cooling_unit.htm)
We have the same issue whether on gas or electric. I am thinking it is the seal around the fridge. Being total newbies the wife had the fridge pretty packed and I noticed a couple days before coming home the fridge was not closed and sealed. I also reviewed the prior postings on fridge issues including Barry's excellent as always assessment and thinned out the contents of the fridge. It was after this that I noticed the door was closed but not sealed. I am going to see how things go on the next trip and if not I will be back here asking more questions. As I am not super mechanical, I am reluctant to start pulling the fridge out. May have to have some help on that one.