Title: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Michelle on September 11, 2010, 09:01:10 pm
Post by: Michelle on September 11, 2010, 09:01:10 pm
Remember!
Safety block your air springs BEFORE you go under it , for any reason.
Good point, and a good reminder. Anyone want to take on writing a "Working Safely on your Foretravel" FAQ/document that we can make a sticky?
Michelle
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Jerry Whiteaker on September 13, 2010, 04:05:42 pm
Post by: Jerry Whiteaker on September 13, 2010, 04:05:42 pm
I was thinking "A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing". So I googled it and came up with this site which will help you waste some time. http://secondsightresearch.tripod.com/cattales/id22.html (http://secondsightresearch.tripod.com/cattales/id22.html) And then you can click on Home and waste a lot of time. No really, everyone needs chocks (I have 4). And if any of us that have air suspension plan on going under the MH for any reason we need safety blocks (I have 8, some say you only need 4). But, you must use them every time you go underneath. Eye protection is probably next on the list, but I have to admit, I don't always use it.
The basic problem seems to be that every week or so a new owner buys a Foretravel and most likely it will be a used one. I would say that most are like me and couldn't afford a new one or the expensive maintenance of having someone else do it. But, many of us just like to do our own maintenance. When I found my FT, I didn't know about this group. I drove happily off knowing very little about air brakes, except wait for the pressure to build up and don't pump them. I wasn't entirely green, having rented several times and owned a Some Other Brand. Getting it home wasn't without incident even though we spent several days at LazyDays in Tampa having fluids changed and fixing things and just getting used to it. What's this in the manual about oil in the front wheels, don't the bearings have grease like cars. Uh-oh, the oil level is low on a front wheel, add some oil, a few miles later the brake is covered in oil, what the heck, must have a bad seal, reason for the oil being low in the first place. I also manged to hit a stump with a lower right door while avoiding a tree with the left mirror. Just a branch hitting the roof said the wife. Could have missed the stump by raising the suspension, had I known.
A little knowledge has gotten me into trouble more than once. Like on the SOB. The exhaust headers are leaking a little on the Ford V8 engine. I took it to a truck shop that had done some work on it before. We don't want to work on that engine because the bolts are hard to remove and tend to break off. Now what, sell it, junk it. Maybe if I spray all those bolts with liquid wrench or rust buster, and turn them back and forth, but not too hard, I can get them out. I can get to them over the top of the front wheels. Did the right side first and it worked, replaced the gasket and bolts. Now the left side, there is a problem here, the bracket that holds the shock is in the way, remove that, only a couple of bolts holding it to the frame. I'm parked in a driveway with a little bit of slope, but the transmission is in park and the emergency brake is on. Got one bolt out, now the other, ping, uh-oh the wheel is turning, I'm stuck in here, I'm going around with the wheel, it's rolling backward down the drive. I can' t get out, I'm bent over 90 degrees, good thing there is some room behind the wheel. My previous life is not passing before me, but all I can see is the thread on the tire and I'm thinking this thing is going to roll over my HEAD! I'm trying to keep my balance and not fall down. By now the wheel is picking up speed and my head comes out below the fender and I jerk back enough to miss getting caught between the pavement and tire. Now it's going to roll over my left arm; I snatch it out of the way just in time. It's rolling toward the street with me hanging on to the front bumper like that was slowing it down. Will it cross the street, go up the neighbor's drive and hit his house? As luck would have it the drives were offset enough that one rear wheel hit the curb and stopped it with the rear corner about 2" from a wooden fence. What happened, the shift linkage was held to the frame on the other side of the shock bracket by the same bolts I was removing. I didn't know it was there. The emergency brake was a drum affair on the drive shaft and hadn't been adjusted in years, or tested either. I always put the transmission in park and applied the brake by moving the lever from off to on. It felt the same adjusted as not adjusted.
Part of the air brake test is to set the parking brake and apply some power to see if it holds. It doesn't take a lot of power to move my vehicle. On a steep slope, I'm not sure the parking brake could hold it. I recently made a stick that I can jam between the dash and brake pedal for such a situation, until I can chock the wheels. A slightly shorter stick can also apply the brakes for checking slide pin length to determine brake pad wear.
Maybe others can pass along some safety stories.
The basic problem seems to be that every week or so a new owner buys a Foretravel and most likely it will be a used one. I would say that most are like me and couldn't afford a new one or the expensive maintenance of having someone else do it. But, many of us just like to do our own maintenance. When I found my FT, I didn't know about this group. I drove happily off knowing very little about air brakes, except wait for the pressure to build up and don't pump them. I wasn't entirely green, having rented several times and owned a Some Other Brand. Getting it home wasn't without incident even though we spent several days at LazyDays in Tampa having fluids changed and fixing things and just getting used to it. What's this in the manual about oil in the front wheels, don't the bearings have grease like cars. Uh-oh, the oil level is low on a front wheel, add some oil, a few miles later the brake is covered in oil, what the heck, must have a bad seal, reason for the oil being low in the first place. I also manged to hit a stump with a lower right door while avoiding a tree with the left mirror. Just a branch hitting the roof said the wife. Could have missed the stump by raising the suspension, had I known.
A little knowledge has gotten me into trouble more than once. Like on the SOB. The exhaust headers are leaking a little on the Ford V8 engine. I took it to a truck shop that had done some work on it before. We don't want to work on that engine because the bolts are hard to remove and tend to break off. Now what, sell it, junk it. Maybe if I spray all those bolts with liquid wrench or rust buster, and turn them back and forth, but not too hard, I can get them out. I can get to them over the top of the front wheels. Did the right side first and it worked, replaced the gasket and bolts. Now the left side, there is a problem here, the bracket that holds the shock is in the way, remove that, only a couple of bolts holding it to the frame. I'm parked in a driveway with a little bit of slope, but the transmission is in park and the emergency brake is on. Got one bolt out, now the other, ping, uh-oh the wheel is turning, I'm stuck in here, I'm going around with the wheel, it's rolling backward down the drive. I can' t get out, I'm bent over 90 degrees, good thing there is some room behind the wheel. My previous life is not passing before me, but all I can see is the thread on the tire and I'm thinking this thing is going to roll over my HEAD! I'm trying to keep my balance and not fall down. By now the wheel is picking up speed and my head comes out below the fender and I jerk back enough to miss getting caught between the pavement and tire. Now it's going to roll over my left arm; I snatch it out of the way just in time. It's rolling toward the street with me hanging on to the front bumper like that was slowing it down. Will it cross the street, go up the neighbor's drive and hit his house? As luck would have it the drives were offset enough that one rear wheel hit the curb and stopped it with the rear corner about 2" from a wooden fence. What happened, the shift linkage was held to the frame on the other side of the shock bracket by the same bolts I was removing. I didn't know it was there. The emergency brake was a drum affair on the drive shaft and hadn't been adjusted in years, or tested either. I always put the transmission in park and applied the brake by moving the lever from off to on. It felt the same adjusted as not adjusted.
Part of the air brake test is to set the parking brake and apply some power to see if it holds. It doesn't take a lot of power to move my vehicle. On a steep slope, I'm not sure the parking brake could hold it. I recently made a stick that I can jam between the dash and brake pedal for such a situation, until I can chock the wheels. A slightly shorter stick can also apply the brakes for checking slide pin length to determine brake pad wear.
Maybe others can pass along some safety stories.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Kent Speers on September 13, 2010, 04:53:37 pm
Post by: Kent Speers on September 13, 2010, 04:53:37 pm
I'm not sure I understand. When the park brake is activated, aren't all four wheels brakes activated on our Foretravels?
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Jerry Whiteaker on September 13, 2010, 05:58:43 pm
Post by: Jerry Whiteaker on September 13, 2010, 05:58:43 pm
I'm not sure I understand. When the park brake is activated, aren't all four wheels brakes activated on our Foretravels?
My coach has 3 air tanks, the one near the rear axle is the supply tank (wet) with a drain near the left rear wheel. there are 2 tanks near the front axle, one for the front brakes the other for the rear brakes, called a dual air brake system. FT may have built some vehicles with only a single service brake system. Don't know when the dual system came into use on trucks and buses.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Kent Speers on September 13, 2010, 06:08:00 pm
Post by: Kent Speers on September 13, 2010, 06:08:00 pm
Great info. Mine is a dual system and its a 93. I will check on how many hoses to the front brake.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: John Cooper on September 13, 2010, 10:48:35 pm
Post by: John Cooper on September 13, 2010, 10:48:35 pm
The issue with the parking brake was with an SOB that was gas powered. Not all hydraulic brake vehicles have the parking brake on the rear axle. My 1957 Fiat Spyder had the brake on the driveshaft also. How did I know? Drove off with it on and smoke started coming out of the gearshift hole!
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Barry Beam on September 17, 2010, 03:35:36 pm
Post by: Barry Beam on September 17, 2010, 03:35:36 pm
RV Electrical Safety
RV Safety | No~Shock~Zone (http://www.noshockzone.org/category/rv-safety/)
We've been trying to locate a survey on just how many RV owners have been shocked by their recreational vehicles, but search as we might, nobody seems to have done a study. So last July we asked RV Travel - News, information & advice for RV enthusiasts (http://www.RVtravel.com) to run a simple 10-second survey directed to their 85,000 opted-in newsletter readers, and this is what we found.
We asked this basic question: Have you or anyone who has traveled with you been shocked by your RV or another recreational vehicle?
* Yes, seriously: 0.68% (7)
* Yes, but not seriously: 21.10% (218)
* No: 78.22% (808)
The results of the survey were alarming. More than 1,100 readers responded, with 21 percent reporting they had been shocked by their RV at some time. A few readers claimed being seriously injured.
The magnitude of the problem isn't obvious until you apply the 21 percent shocked number against the total number of families who use recreational vehicles in the USA alone. According to RVIA.org, more than 8.2 million American families own an RV: that's nearly one RV for every 12 households who own a car. This means perhaps 1.7 million families have been shocked from an RV, with up to 500,000 being "seriously" shocked. Now, we're not even counting the times RVers have burned up a power plug or have blown up a microwave due to an improperly wired or worn campsite pedestal outlet.
So let's get something straight — every shock is potentially "serious." It's just a matter of circumstances coming together that can then kill you or a family member. If your hands and feet are wet, it can take as little as 30 volts AC to stop your heart. How many times have you walked back from the shower and touched the side of your RV while standing on the damp ground? Ever felt a tingle then? If so, you dodged the bullet that day, but the next time could kill you or a loved one.
With that in mind, RVtravel has partnered with the nationally-recognized HOW-TO Workshops and its chief instructor Mike Sokol, a technology instructor with 40 years experience in the professional sound industry. Together, they have begun an electrical safety program called the No~Shock~Zone, and are instituting a series of online articles and training videos on RV electrical safety, which we'll post first at RVtravel.com and then at the blog NoShockZone.org. These how-to safety articles will cover everything from how to use a digital meter or non-contact tester to confirm the campsite power plugs are wired correctly to how to check your own extension cords for proper wiring. The articles will provide quick ways to confirm you don't have the silent but deadly Hot-Skin problem, where your entire RV is electrified.
The No Shock Zone blog will ask for your continued comments about getting shocked by your RV or the times your gear was damaged at campsites due to incorrect wiring. You can contact Mike Sokol directly at mike(at)fitsandstarts.com or visit No Shock Zone (http://www.noshockzone.org) for more information.
A few comments from the RVtravel survey:
* OURS CAME IN OUR FIRST FIFTH WHEEL due to an improperly installed wire in the bedroom area. Due to vibration when we were towing, the insulation slowly wore through but nothing was noticeable for about five years after we had it. Finally it shorted out all together when we had it stored for the winter and water got in through the roof and hit the weak spot. Fleetwood admitted the error and gave us some reimbursement, but we were receiving shocks from the frame for two years, and I was blaming it on a faulty switch box that I was hooked into.
* My issue was due to a improperly spliced extension cord.
* Several years ago we were plugged into a spot for RV visitors in a mobile home park. At 9 p.m., with only a couple of lights on, I begin to hear electricity arcing and the lights blinking. Next the plug for the microwave caught fire and then the bottom of the cupboard caught fire. The 110 breaker box was close by and I killed the juice and got the fire out. The plug at the pedestal was wired wrong and consequently defeating the auto operation of the breakers. That park paid for the damage.
* One of the problems that I have experienced while work camping is that one improperly wired RV can make every RV on a common loop hot skinned. This improper wiring is not always the result of some shade tree mechanic doing something stupid. Found this problem at a CG and the offending rig was a brand new unit that the owner was using for the first time. It was wired reverse polarity.
* I connected with a 50 amp at a campground that tested O. K. but when a load was applied one leg dropped off due to a loose connection and my inverter/converter relay tripped off saving damage. Here again the box was well worn and the outlet was way beyond when it should have been changed.
* Bad plug at a KOA in Springfield, daughter got a shock going into our camper. It also messed about with the power. Called the campsite owner over and he said, "Oh yeah, was planning on replacing that plug." He brought power to us from another outlet. After that I now check.
RV Safety | No~Shock~Zone (http://www.noshockzone.org/category/rv-safety/)
We've been trying to locate a survey on just how many RV owners have been shocked by their recreational vehicles, but search as we might, nobody seems to have done a study. So last July we asked RV Travel - News, information & advice for RV enthusiasts (http://www.RVtravel.com) to run a simple 10-second survey directed to their 85,000 opted-in newsletter readers, and this is what we found.
We asked this basic question: Have you or anyone who has traveled with you been shocked by your RV or another recreational vehicle?
* Yes, seriously: 0.68% (7)
* Yes, but not seriously: 21.10% (218)
* No: 78.22% (808)
The results of the survey were alarming. More than 1,100 readers responded, with 21 percent reporting they had been shocked by their RV at some time. A few readers claimed being seriously injured.
The magnitude of the problem isn't obvious until you apply the 21 percent shocked number against the total number of families who use recreational vehicles in the USA alone. According to RVIA.org, more than 8.2 million American families own an RV: that's nearly one RV for every 12 households who own a car. This means perhaps 1.7 million families have been shocked from an RV, with up to 500,000 being "seriously" shocked. Now, we're not even counting the times RVers have burned up a power plug or have blown up a microwave due to an improperly wired or worn campsite pedestal outlet.
So let's get something straight — every shock is potentially "serious." It's just a matter of circumstances coming together that can then kill you or a family member. If your hands and feet are wet, it can take as little as 30 volts AC to stop your heart. How many times have you walked back from the shower and touched the side of your RV while standing on the damp ground? Ever felt a tingle then? If so, you dodged the bullet that day, but the next time could kill you or a loved one.
With that in mind, RVtravel has partnered with the nationally-recognized HOW-TO Workshops and its chief instructor Mike Sokol, a technology instructor with 40 years experience in the professional sound industry. Together, they have begun an electrical safety program called the No~Shock~Zone, and are instituting a series of online articles and training videos on RV electrical safety, which we'll post first at RVtravel.com and then at the blog NoShockZone.org. These how-to safety articles will cover everything from how to use a digital meter or non-contact tester to confirm the campsite power plugs are wired correctly to how to check your own extension cords for proper wiring. The articles will provide quick ways to confirm you don't have the silent but deadly Hot-Skin problem, where your entire RV is electrified.
The No Shock Zone blog will ask for your continued comments about getting shocked by your RV or the times your gear was damaged at campsites due to incorrect wiring. You can contact Mike Sokol directly at mike(at)fitsandstarts.com or visit No Shock Zone (http://www.noshockzone.org) for more information.
A few comments from the RVtravel survey:
* OURS CAME IN OUR FIRST FIFTH WHEEL due to an improperly installed wire in the bedroom area. Due to vibration when we were towing, the insulation slowly wore through but nothing was noticeable for about five years after we had it. Finally it shorted out all together when we had it stored for the winter and water got in through the roof and hit the weak spot. Fleetwood admitted the error and gave us some reimbursement, but we were receiving shocks from the frame for two years, and I was blaming it on a faulty switch box that I was hooked into.
* My issue was due to a improperly spliced extension cord.
* Several years ago we were plugged into a spot for RV visitors in a mobile home park. At 9 p.m., with only a couple of lights on, I begin to hear electricity arcing and the lights blinking. Next the plug for the microwave caught fire and then the bottom of the cupboard caught fire. The 110 breaker box was close by and I killed the juice and got the fire out. The plug at the pedestal was wired wrong and consequently defeating the auto operation of the breakers. That park paid for the damage.
* One of the problems that I have experienced while work camping is that one improperly wired RV can make every RV on a common loop hot skinned. This improper wiring is not always the result of some shade tree mechanic doing something stupid. Found this problem at a CG and the offending rig was a brand new unit that the owner was using for the first time. It was wired reverse polarity.
* I connected with a 50 amp at a campground that tested O. K. but when a load was applied one leg dropped off due to a loose connection and my inverter/converter relay tripped off saving damage. Here again the box was well worn and the outlet was way beyond when it should have been changed.
* Bad plug at a KOA in Springfield, daughter got a shock going into our camper. It also messed about with the power. Called the campsite owner over and he said, "Oh yeah, was planning on replacing that plug." He brought power to us from another outlet. After that I now check.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Gary Bouland (RIP) on September 17, 2010, 05:08:57 pm
Post by: Gary Bouland (RIP) on September 17, 2010, 05:08:57 pm
Barry, I have been following the NO SHOCK ZONE info. It is thourough and well written. I agree that every one that has a MH needs to read and understand what electricity is all about, you don't have to be an expert, just cautious around things that you don't understand completely, and then you can still get in trouble.
On my old Executive I never gave a thought to the tingle that I got any time I touched the metal bumper. I know now, I was lucky.
On my old Executive I never gave a thought to the tingle that I got any time I touched the metal bumper. I know now, I was lucky.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Gayland Baasch on September 18, 2010, 03:30:33 pm
Post by: Gayland Baasch on September 18, 2010, 03:30:33 pm
Since we're all climbing underneath now to check our bulkhead bolts, what is the proper place to put the jacks, and what happens with the level system that it will suddenly let the coach lower. Is it a matter of just running low on air?
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Raymond Jordan on September 18, 2010, 03:44:21 pm
Post by: Raymond Jordan on September 18, 2010, 03:44:21 pm
Hi Gayland,
Our coach seems to hold the air, in the air bags, forever. It can read zero air pressure for a few weeks, and never let the bags down. Whenever I go under the coach, I raise the bags to the max, then I put my oak blocks between the frame rails, then lower slightly to set on the blocks. If the bags ever lost air, the coach could not drop. There are some pictures of some adjustables, homemade, between the frame jacks somewhere on this forum. They are real nice. I hope this helped. Be safe
Our coach seems to hold the air, in the air bags, forever. It can read zero air pressure for a few weeks, and never let the bags down. Whenever I go under the coach, I raise the bags to the max, then I put my oak blocks between the frame rails, then lower slightly to set on the blocks. If the bags ever lost air, the coach could not drop. There are some pictures of some adjustables, homemade, between the frame jacks somewhere on this forum. They are real nice. I hope this helped. Be safe
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Barry Beam on September 18, 2010, 05:22:46 pm
Post by: Barry Beam on September 18, 2010, 05:22:46 pm
Quote
what is the proper place to put the jacks,
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Jim Monk on September 19, 2010, 10:22:00 am
Post by: Jim Monk on September 19, 2010, 10:22:00 am
Barry, the old saying "a picture is worth a thousand words" is so true for me. Thanks for the picture on the air bag blocks.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Gayland Baasch on September 19, 2010, 08:46:58 pm
Post by: Gayland Baasch on September 19, 2010, 08:46:58 pm
X 2 what Jim said, but another question, do you do them in pairs (one per side) or is one sufficient?
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Barry Beam on September 19, 2010, 08:56:42 pm
Post by: Barry Beam on September 19, 2010, 08:56:42 pm
Quote
X 2 what Jim said, but another question, do you do them in pairs (one per side) or is one sufficient?
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Raymond Jordan on September 21, 2010, 01:09:22 pm
Post by: Raymond Jordan on September 21, 2010, 01:09:22 pm
Hi Gayland,
If you go to page 16 in the photo/files section, there are a few pictures of the safety bars we are talking about. These are adjustable. I should add that Bill Willett, longtime member here, made these. And thanks for adding the photo link!
If you go to page 16 in the photo/files section, there are a few pictures of the safety bars we are talking about. These are adjustable. I should add that Bill Willett, longtime member here, made these. And thanks for adding the photo link!
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: P. Wyatt Sabourin on September 28, 2010, 03:21:39 pm
Post by: P. Wyatt Sabourin on September 28, 2010, 03:21:39 pm
The pictures show a safety jack near an airbag.
Would it not be better if the safety jack in each corner of the coach were put on the frame to the inside of the tire, centered (front to back) between the airbags. This would more evenly distribute the load normally carried by the airbags.
Would it not be better if the safety jack in each corner of the coach were put on the frame to the inside of the tire, centered (front to back) between the airbags. This would more evenly distribute the load normally carried by the airbags.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Raymond Jordan on September 28, 2010, 04:08:17 pm
Post by: Raymond Jordan on September 28, 2010, 04:08:17 pm
Hi Wyatt,
I think they safety jacks were being used two per wheel, one at each air bag. Two would be the better way to do it.
I think they safety jacks were being used two per wheel, one at each air bag. Two would be the better way to do it.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Dave Katsuki on September 29, 2010, 02:02:22 am
Post by: Dave Katsuki on September 29, 2010, 02:02:22 am
Here's another one that's maybe obvious, but I'm always aware of the exciting things that can happen if I'm wearing a ring or a watch while working around the batteries or the 12v distribution panels. Lots of current is available there to rapidly heat up any metal that happens to short out, and if that metal is your ring...
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: steve on September 29, 2010, 06:23:45 pm
Post by: steve on September 29, 2010, 06:23:45 pm
DaveExcellent point ! ... Recently I met an RV tech, who while wearing his wedding ring accidentally bridged it between a positive post and ground, bunt the ring down to the bone :o Now it looks like he is wearing a ring even when he is not. Take off the jewelry when working on your coach.
Here's another one that's maybe obvious, but I'm always aware of the exciting things that can happen if I'm wearing a ring or a watch while working around the batteries or the 12v distribution panels. Lots of current is available there to rapidly heat up any metal that happens to short out, and if that metal is your ring...
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Gayland Baasch on October 04, 2010, 09:36:45 pm
Post by: Gayland Baasch on October 04, 2010, 09:36:45 pm
Tried out using the spacers to hold up the coach in case of air loss and something came to mind. Be careful when putting the spacers in that you aren't laying over the tire. Reach around the tire.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Roadrunner on October 05, 2010, 09:39:31 am
Post by: Roadrunner on October 05, 2010, 09:39:31 am
This is a question for Barry. Those tubular steel spacers that you use looks just like what I need. Nice and simple. Can you tell me what size they are, and what thickness of steel tube. They look to be about 1 1/2" steel and I am guessing 1/8 thick wall.
Thanks
Thanks
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Barry Beam on October 05, 2010, 09:49:41 am
Post by: Barry Beam on October 05, 2010, 09:49:41 am
Quote
This is a question for Barry. Those tubular steel spacers that you use looks just like what I need.
Can you tell me what size they are, and what thickness of steel tube. They look to be about 1 1/2" steel and I am guessing 1/8 thick wall.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Roadrunner on October 05, 2010, 10:00:53 am
Post by: Roadrunner on October 05, 2010, 10:00:53 am
Thanks Barry. I am getting some of these cut right away.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: George Hatfield on November 24, 2010, 11:04:20 pm
Post by: George Hatfield on November 24, 2010, 11:04:20 pm
How about this for a safety block....4" x 6" x 10" wood block. Bought an 8' length at Home Depot and had them cut it into 10" pieces.
They seem to work fine. I used two on each side of the front and one on each side of the back. Lowered the coach until they were tight. I could not find anything suitable in steel.
They seem to work fine. I used two on each side of the front and one on each side of the back. Lowered the coach until they were tight. I could not find anything suitable in steel.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Barry Beam on November 24, 2010, 11:14:14 pm
Post by: Barry Beam on November 24, 2010, 11:14:14 pm
Quote
How about this for a safety block....4" x 6" x 10" wood block.
They will take more storage room in the bay.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: jeff on November 24, 2010, 11:20:05 pm
Post by: jeff on November 24, 2010, 11:20:05 pm
Went to LOWES..They would not cut...excuse they used was saw not able to cut that size...Believe associate was just Lazy...but..
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: skyliner57 on November 27, 2010, 08:03:41 pm
Post by: skyliner57 on November 27, 2010, 08:03:41 pm
Question... does the FT have Hyd. leveling jacks? and couldn't they be used to block up the coach and how would one use the "safety blocks" when using the leveling jacks?
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Don Hay on November 27, 2010, 09:22:06 pm
Post by: Don Hay on November 27, 2010, 09:22:06 pm
Most (except for some of the U-225 and U240's) of the Foretravels built in the '90's and all from '95 on have air-bag suspensions, no leveling jacks. That is one of the advantages of our coaches, no need to level with hydraulic jacks.
Safety blocks keep the "house" portion elevated above the chassis frame.
Safety blocks keep the "house" portion elevated above the chassis frame.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: skyliner57 on November 28, 2010, 06:57:59 am
Post by: skyliner57 on November 28, 2010, 06:57:59 am
Thanks Don.
I thought the Air Bags were installed on the suspension system and not between the house and coach frame. Learned something today! ;)
I thought the Air Bags were installed on the suspension system and not between the house and coach frame. Learned something today! ;)
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Mike McFall on November 28, 2010, 10:05:47 am
Post by: Mike McFall on November 28, 2010, 10:05:47 am
Quote
How about this for a safety block....4" x 6" x 10" wood block. Bought an 8' length at Home Depot and had them cut it into 10" pieces.
They seem to work fine. I used two on each side of the front and one on each side of the back. Lowered the coach until they were tight. I could not find anything suitable in steel.
Hey Thanks George,,,that gives me an idea. I still have several of the tops we cut off my Pole Barn poles when I built it... They are 6"X6". Is 10" the right length to use?
Mike
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Barry Beam on November 28, 2010, 10:53:14 am
Post by: Barry Beam on November 28, 2010, 10:53:14 am
Is 10" the right length to use?
Mike
It gives you a little more room underneath.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: George Hatfield on November 28, 2010, 11:21:46 am
Post by: George Hatfield on November 28, 2010, 11:21:46 am
11" would be better. I was concerned about getting them in, but there is plenty of room.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Neal Pillsbury on November 28, 2010, 12:58:40 pm
Post by: Neal Pillsbury on November 28, 2010, 12:58:40 pm
How about this for a safety block....4" x 6" x 10" wood block. Bought an 8' length at Home Depot and had them cut it into 10" pieces.
They seem to work fine. I used two on each side of the front and one on each side of the back. Lowered the coach until they were tight. I could not find anything suitable in steel.
It's good to use two safety blocks on each side and please do me an additional favor.
When you use your wooden safety blocks, place the 6" dimension of the block in line with the frame (instead of the 4" dimension). The reason being that, from an engineering perspective, if the wood does not bear weight from above and does not have a solid bearing surface from below, in essence, it does not even exist. Therefore, as shown in your picture, your wooden safety block is not 4'X6"X10". It is instead, approximately 2.5"(the frame and suspension structural elements have rounded corners)X4"X10". Another way to view it is how easily a crack propagates, in a block of wood, when you initiate a split with a splitting maul.
Unlike a metal molecular structure, when a shear force is in line with wood grain, and you exceed the "plastic deformation" yield stress of the grain of the wood, the strength of the wood becomes very low. Now the compressive force yield strength of wood, perpendicular to the grain of the wood, is a different matter. Wooden safety blocks placed with the grain running perpendicular to the compression force, would be many times stronger (roughly, a minimum of ten times stronger, depending upon the type of wood and the imperfections present).
I personally feel that 2"X2"X1/4" Web steel is the minimum strength that is trustworthy and (because it is what I had handy) I personally use 2"X4"X1/4" Web (X 11.5").
Just a personal safety concern,
Neal
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: George Hatfield on November 28, 2010, 01:25:34 pm
Post by: George Hatfield on November 28, 2010, 01:25:34 pm
Neal... good point. I will turn them sideways from now on. I would prefer metal and will replace them when I can find something like you show in your photos. Thanks!!
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: John Cooper on November 28, 2010, 02:24:00 pm
Post by: John Cooper on November 28, 2010, 02:24:00 pm
George,
Any welding shop should be able to make them for you, also there is Metal Supermarkets that will cut to length and probably has that rectangular tubing in stock.
Any welding shop should be able to make them for you, also there is Metal Supermarkets that will cut to length and probably has that rectangular tubing in stock.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Barry Beam on November 28, 2010, 02:37:50 pm
Post by: Barry Beam on November 28, 2010, 02:37:50 pm
George,
Any welding shop should be able to make them for you, also there is Metal Supermarkets that will cut to length and probably has that rectangular tubing in stock.
Title: Safety Jacks
Post by: J. D. Stevens on December 10, 2010, 02:18:21 pm
Post by: J. D. Stevens on December 10, 2010, 02:18:21 pm
Based on pictures posted by Bill Willett, I had some safety jacks built by a local welding shop. They are adjustable from heights of about 7 1/2" to 11". My plan was to be able to insert or remove the jacks while the coach is shut down and level. I don't have to raise or lower the coach in order to place or remove the jacks.
I assume one could set them for proper ride height and tweak the ride height valves to a good setting. I'll probably leave that task to the experts.
A bonus I found when I picked up the jacks is that stowing them in a container is easier when they are taken apart.
I visited the welding shop with pictures of Willett's safety jacks, and the coach. The folk at the shop took measurements and fabricated the jacks in about 10 days. Cost was $40/jack.
I assume one could set them for proper ride height and tweak the ride height valves to a good setting. I'll probably leave that task to the experts.
A bonus I found when I picked up the jacks is that stowing them in a container is easier when they are taken apart.
I visited the welding shop with pictures of Willett's safety jacks, and the coach. The folk at the shop took measurements and fabricated the jacks in about 10 days. Cost was $40/jack.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart on December 10, 2010, 03:15:20 pm
Post by: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart on December 10, 2010, 03:15:20 pm
Love those red jacks! Look well thought out. Nice!
Pierce & Gaylie
93'U300/36
Pierce & Gaylie
93'U300/36
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Raymond Jordan on December 10, 2010, 11:23:12 pm
Post by: Raymond Jordan on December 10, 2010, 11:23:12 pm
Hi JD,
Real nice jacks. What is the diameter of the threaded rod/bar?
Thanks,
Real nice jacks. What is the diameter of the threaded rod/bar?
Thanks,
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: J. D. Stevens on December 11, 2010, 09:58:18 am
Post by: J. D. Stevens on December 11, 2010, 09:58:18 am
Threaded portion is 1" all thread. Pipe is 1 1/4" OD. Head and feet are 4" channel. The thread fits loosely into the pipe.
The stress is all compressional. The connection of the H frame to the chassis eliminates any lateral forces. The weakest point would probably be the nut on the threads. The jack must support up to 10,000# in order to provide protection if the air bags deflate.
Before I left the welding shop, we put a jack at each corner of the coach and deflated the air bags. There was a small amount of creaking in the suspension system, but all seemed solid.
After I returned home, I leveled the coach in a relatively high position, placed the jacks, and crawled around in the dirt under the coach for the first time. I could see a lot of parts, connections, and controls that I hadn't seen before. Fortunately, most appeared to be in pretty good condition.
The stress is all compressional. The connection of the H frame to the chassis eliminates any lateral forces. The weakest point would probably be the nut on the threads. The jack must support up to 10,000# in order to provide protection if the air bags deflate.
Before I left the welding shop, we put a jack at each corner of the coach and deflated the air bags. There was a small amount of creaking in the suspension system, but all seemed solid.
After I returned home, I leveled the coach in a relatively high position, placed the jacks, and crawled around in the dirt under the coach for the first time. I could see a lot of parts, connections, and controls that I hadn't seen before. Fortunately, most appeared to be in pretty good condition.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: John Cooper on December 17, 2010, 05:50:36 pm
Post by: John Cooper on December 17, 2010, 05:50:36 pm
J.D.
That seems a very reasonable cost and gives greater flexibility than just chunks of wood or steel.
For those of you, like me, that have a welder and want to make your own I would suggest using Acme threaded rod instead of all thread. It and the nuts are available from Fastenal. It is what they use in screw jacks and is stronger therefore supporting more weight.
That seems a very reasonable cost and gives greater flexibility than just chunks of wood or steel.
For those of you, like me, that have a welder and want to make your own I would suggest using Acme threaded rod instead of all thread. It and the nuts are available from Fastenal. It is what they use in screw jacks and is stronger therefore supporting more weight.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: J. D. Stevens on December 17, 2010, 07:12:49 pm
Post by: J. D. Stevens on December 17, 2010, 07:12:49 pm
...
For those of you, like me, that have a welder and want to make your own I would suggest using Acme threaded rod instead of all thread. It and the nuts are available from Fastenal. It is what they use in screw jacks and is stronger therefore supporting more weight.
John,
Thanks for your affirmation that we got a reasonable tool at a reasonable price. I agree that the acme thread would be more suitable. I did not have sufficient knowledge to specify acme thread. I depended on the welding shop to procure appropriate materials.
I did some checking on line regarding strength of the all-thread. Based on what I found in a brief search, it appeared to be sufficient to support 10,000# in tension. I would expect the rod to support even more in compression over the small length that is exposed in my application. The large footprint of the "shoes" gives plenty of stability to keep the rod and pipe in a pure compressional mode with no shear load.
Thanks to Bill Willett for supplying pictures of his jacks. I supplied the pictures to the welding shop and they fabricated the devices.
(BTW, I expect our home is about 75 northwest of your location. We escaped from the Astrodome area to Bellville about five years ago.)
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: John Cooper on December 18, 2010, 11:37:16 pm
Post by: John Cooper on December 18, 2010, 11:37:16 pm
J.D.,
I, too, hope to escape Houston but I have to get the house fixed up first. While I have seen the Acme thread on bottle jacks I did not know the name of it until I was flipping through a catalog. Catalogs can be great educators if you can avoid the "I wants".
To all,
In further research I discovered that Wholesale Tool has the Acme threaded rod for less than half of Fastenal's price. It looks like it is possible to order it over the 'net.
I, too, hope to escape Houston but I have to get the house fixed up first. While I have seen the Acme thread on bottle jacks I did not know the name of it until I was flipping through a catalog. Catalogs can be great educators if you can avoid the "I wants".
To all,
In further research I discovered that Wholesale Tool has the Acme threaded rod for less than half of Fastenal's price. It looks like it is possible to order it over the 'net.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: ncaabbfan on March 06, 2011, 10:00:20 pm
Post by: ncaabbfan on March 06, 2011, 10:00:20 pm
I personally feel that 2"X2"X1/4" Web steel is the minimum strength that is trustworthy and (because it is what I had handy) I personally use 2"X4"X1/4" Web (X 11.5").
Just a personal safety concern,
Neal
I have located some 2"x5" square steel tubing with 1/4" wall thickness. Unfortunately, it has approx. 1-1/2" to 2" angle iron welded to the 5" sides so instead of 2" wide, it appears to be around 5"-6" wide x 5".
Is there sufficient space in each of the 4 places, where these blocks are to be placed, to allow the angle iron pieces to be left on the tubing? If not, I am hesitant to get the piece because I do not want to cut the angle iron pieces off with a torch because I fear this might weaken the wall where the welds are located.
If the spaces at all 4 locations will accommodate the roughtly 5"-6"x5" blocks, I might be able to use these scrap pieces.
What do you think?
Thank you very much.
Morris
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Don Hay on March 07, 2011, 01:04:15 am
Post by: Don Hay on March 07, 2011, 01:04:15 am
Morris:
Have you checked to see if there is enough clearance to center the scrap on the frame? If they can be centered, it should work. You didn't mention the height of the pieces. Are they close to 10-11"? That's about what works best.
Have you checked to see if there is enough clearance to center the scrap on the frame? If they can be centered, it should work. You didn't mention the height of the pieces. Are they close to 10-11"? That's about what works best.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: ncaabbfan on March 07, 2011, 07:13:51 pm
Post by: ncaabbfan on March 07, 2011, 07:13:51 pm
Morris:
Have you checked to see if there is enough clearance to center the scrap on the frame? If they can be centered, it should work. You didn't mention the height of the pieces. Are they close to 10-11"? That's about what works best.
I was planning to use 11" height. The piece I found is approx. 88"-90" long. So if the width works OK, 2 sets should be able to be cut out of this piece.
Unfortunately, our coach is in storage and is not readily accessible. So I cannot check the clearance space right now. I thought possibly someone here might know how much clearance is available.
Thank you.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Jon Twork on March 07, 2011, 08:50:00 pm
Post by: Jon Twork on March 07, 2011, 08:50:00 pm
It seems to me that if your pieces are longer than 7" or so, you are installing them in the wrong location.
Regards,
Jon Twork
Regards,
Jon Twork
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: amos.harrison on March 07, 2011, 10:01:20 pm
Post by: amos.harrison on March 07, 2011, 10:01:20 pm
Morris,
You won't have any clearance problems. Use the 11" length and make sure you center the 2" tubing over the frame members. The flanges will just be in space.
You won't have any clearance problems. Use the 11" length and make sure you center the 2" tubing over the frame members. The flanges will just be in space.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Don Hay on March 07, 2011, 10:19:34 pm
Post by: Don Hay on March 07, 2011, 10:19:34 pm
Quoting Morris: "So I cannot check the clearance space right now. I thought possibly someone here might know how much clearance is available."
Morris:
I ran out to my Grandvilla and took a couple pics of driver's side, front and rear tires and will try to include them here. Brett is right: There is at least 5-6" from the frame to a partition, so you shouldn't have an issue. However, this is the case in a U-280 Grandvilla, so I'm not positive that it applies to the U-270, but Brett has the bus (Unicoach) style, so it should be the same.
Don
Morris:
I ran out to my Grandvilla and took a couple pics of driver's side, front and rear tires and will try to include them here. Brett is right: There is at least 5-6" from the frame to a partition, so you shouldn't have an issue. However, this is the case in a U-280 Grandvilla, so I'm not positive that it applies to the U-270, but Brett has the bus (Unicoach) style, so it should be the same.
Don
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: ncaabbfan on March 07, 2011, 10:47:07 pm
Post by: ncaabbfan on March 07, 2011, 10:47:07 pm
Morris,
You won't have any clearance problems. Use the 11" length and make sure you center the 2" tubing over the frame members. The flanges will just be in space.
Thank you VERY much!! I greatly appreciate the information.
Quoting Morris: "So I cannot check the clearance space right now. I thought possibly someone here might know how much clearance is available."
Morris:
I ran out to my Grandvilla and took a couple pics of driver's side, front and rear tires and will try to include them here. Brett is right: There is at least 5-6" from the frame to a partition, so you shouldn't have an issue. However, this is the case in a U-280 Grandvilla, so I'm not positive that it applies to the U-270, but Brett has the bus (Unicoach) style, so it should be the same.
Don
Thank you VERY much!! I greatly appreciate the information.
This helps me greatly!! Thank you.
Morris
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: ncaabbfan on March 10, 2011, 11:29:23 am
Post by: ncaabbfan on March 10, 2011, 11:29:23 am
Just to follow up, I got the 2"x5"x1/4" piece of steel tubing yesterday. It is 8 feet long...and VERY heavy! The angle iron welded to each side is approx 2-1/4". Hope to get the 4 pieces cut in the next week or so.
BTW, if anyone close to or coming through OKC want a similar piece, contact 405-593-0483. I paid $15.00 for mine. The scrap yard is located close to the Hefner Road exit off I-35 north of OKC.
Thank you to everyone for their input on this.
BTW, if anyone close to or coming through OKC want a similar piece, contact 405-593-0483. I paid $15.00 for mine. The scrap yard is located close to the Hefner Road exit off I-35 north of OKC.
Thank you to everyone for their input on this.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Jon Twork on March 13, 2011, 07:49:37 pm
Post by: Jon Twork on March 13, 2011, 07:49:37 pm
I suggest that those of you who are making parts to prevent your coach from dropping when working on it might want to consider the following.
If you will look on top of the lower suspension members, you will find four (4) bosses (large dimples like the top 1/5 of an egg) at each corner of the front suspension and also you will find four (4) more on the rear suspension for a total of eight (8) bosses These bosses were put there to indicate where to put veritically placed round or square tubing approximately 7.5" high for the purpose of keeping the chassis elevated during servicing. Those who use these bosses always either use four for front work or four for rear work or eight when working under the whole coach.
I suggest that there may be some VERY valid reasons to use the bosses provided by the factory. One reason is, the ease of placing the vertical tubes. Another is the total strength of the four tubes per axle concept.
Placing supports in locations other than indicated by the factory bosses MAY not be in the best interest of your chassis, suspension or your pocketbook.
That is my understanding of the situation and I thought I should pass it along.
Regards,
If you will look on top of the lower suspension members, you will find four (4) bosses (large dimples like the top 1/5 of an egg) at each corner of the front suspension and also you will find four (4) more on the rear suspension for a total of eight (8) bosses These bosses were put there to indicate where to put veritically placed round or square tubing approximately 7.5" high for the purpose of keeping the chassis elevated during servicing. Those who use these bosses always either use four for front work or four for rear work or eight when working under the whole coach.
I suggest that there may be some VERY valid reasons to use the bosses provided by the factory. One reason is, the ease of placing the vertical tubes. Another is the total strength of the four tubes per axle concept.
Placing supports in locations other than indicated by the factory bosses MAY not be in the best interest of your chassis, suspension or your pocketbook.
That is my understanding of the situation and I thought I should pass it along.
Regards,
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: George Stoltz on March 13, 2011, 09:12:49 pm
Post by: George Stoltz on March 13, 2011, 09:12:49 pm
Before I make my comment I want to say that I find Jon to be one of the more erudite posters on the Forum. He knows his stuff. I don't doubt for one moment what he has said about supporting our coaches. This topic is a perfect opportunity for someone at the factory to weigh in on. Confirmation of this important or even vital topic would go a long way to convince a lot of us to use those support points.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Michelle on March 13, 2011, 09:44:00 pm
Post by: Michelle on March 13, 2011, 09:44:00 pm
This topic is a perfect opportunity for someone at the factory to weigh in on. Confirmation of this important or even vital topic would go a long way to convince a lot of us to use those support points.
Actually, regarding a topic such as this I would expect the only thing the factory should say is "only a qualified service technician should perform work on your coach". Too many variables to say anything else.
Please respect that the factory is here post useful information when they can contribute and refrain from requesting they respond to a post or attempt to put them on the spot.
Michelle
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Peter & Beth on March 13, 2011, 10:06:06 pm
Post by: Peter & Beth on March 13, 2011, 10:06:06 pm
I suggest that those of you who are making parts to prevent your coach from dropping when working on it might want to consider the following.
If you will look on top of the lower suspension members, you will find four (4) bosses (large dimples like the top 1/5 of an egg) at each corner of the front suspension and also you will find four (4) more on the rear suspension for a total of eight ( 8) bosses These bosses were put there to indicate where to put veritically placed round or square tubing approximately 7.5" high for the purpose of keeping the chassis elevated during servicing. Those who use these bosses always either use four for front work or four for rear work or eight when working under the whole coach.
I suggest that there may be some VERY valid reasons to use the bosses provided by the factory. One reason is, the ease of placing the vertical tubes. Another is the total strength of the four tubes per axle concept.
Placing supports in locations other than indicated by the factory bosses MAY not be in the best interest of your chassis, suspension or your pocketbook.
That is my understanding of the situation and I thought I should pass it along.
Regards,
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: George Stoltz on March 13, 2011, 10:16:28 pm
Post by: George Stoltz on March 13, 2011, 10:16:28 pm
This topic is a perfect opportunity for someone at the factory to weigh in on. Confirmation of this important or even vital topic would go a long way to convince a lot of us to use those support points.
Actually, regarding a topic such as this I would expect the only thing the factory should say is "only a qualified service technician should perform work on your coach". Too many variables to say anything else.
Please respect that the factory is here post useful information when they can contribute and refrain from requesting they respond to a post or attempt to put them on the spot.
Michelle
Yeah. I kind of thought that after I hit the send button. It dawned on me that if the factory encourages a particular practice then someone who gets hurt following their directions might want to bring suit against them.
I stand corrected.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Rick on March 14, 2011, 07:37:20 am
Post by: Rick on March 14, 2011, 07:37:20 am
Peter,
I believe you can see them in Don Hay's post.
I believe you can see them in Don Hay's post.
Quote
I suggest that those of you who are making parts to prevent your coach from dropping when working on it might want to consider the following.Can someone take some pictures of these bosses for each corner? That would be helpful.
If you will look on top of the lower suspension members, you will find four (4) bosses (large dimples like the top 1/5 of an egg) at each corner of the front suspension and also you will find four (4) more on the rear suspension for a total of eight ( 8) bosses These bosses were put there to indicate where to put veritically placed round or square tubing approximately 7.5" high for the purpose of keeping the chassis elevated during servicing. Those who use these bosses always either use four for front work or four for rear work or eight when working under the whole coach.
I suggest that there may be some VERY valid reasons to use the bosses provided by the factory. One reason is, the ease of placing the vertical tubes. Another is the total strength of the four tubes per axle concept.
Placing supports in locations other than indicated by the factory bosses MAY not be in the best interest of your chassis, suspension or your pocketbook.
That is my understanding of the situation and I thought I should pass it along.
Regards,
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Don Hay on March 14, 2011, 12:37:30 pm
Post by: Don Hay on March 14, 2011, 12:37:30 pm
Quote from Jon Twork: "These bosses were put there to indicate where to put vertically placed round or square tubing approximately 7.5" high for the purpose of keeping the chassis elevated during servicing."
It's interesting that I never noticed those "bosses" before, despite using support tubing for 7 years now. Just as interesting is the fact that my instructions for where to support the frame and how many support members to use were given to me by the (then) service manager at Foretravel. He had one of the FT guys cut me 4, 2"X2"X11" square tubes, then showed me where to position them, never once mentioning the bosses that were about 6-10" away. In fact, those 11" tubes wouldn't fit between the frame members at the bosses. One would, as Jon mentioned, have to go with shorter (7.5") supports.
Apparently there was an information "gap" (breakdown) between the factory and at least some people in Service. Whether there still is a gap or that was just an isolated instance remains to be seen.
It's interesting that I never noticed those "bosses" before, despite using support tubing for 7 years now. Just as interesting is the fact that my instructions for where to support the frame and how many support members to use were given to me by the (then) service manager at Foretravel. He had one of the FT guys cut me 4, 2"X2"X11" square tubes, then showed me where to position them, never once mentioning the bosses that were about 6-10" away. In fact, those 11" tubes wouldn't fit between the frame members at the bosses. One would, as Jon mentioned, have to go with shorter (7.5") supports.
Apparently there was an information "gap" (breakdown) between the factory and at least some people in Service. Whether there still is a gap or that was just an isolated instance remains to be seen.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Neal Pillsbury on March 15, 2011, 04:59:25 pm
Post by: Neal Pillsbury on March 15, 2011, 04:59:25 pm
........................These bosses were put there to indicate where to put veritically placed round or square tubing approximately 7.5" high for the purpose of keeping the chassis elevated during servicing. Those who use these bosses always either use four for front work or four for rear work or eight when working under the whole coach..................................
That is my understanding of the situation and I thought I should pass it along.
Regards,
.......................Just as interesting is the fact that my instructions for where to support the frame and how many support members to use were given to me by the (then) service manager at Foretravel. He had one of the FT guys cut me 4, 2"X2"X11" square tubes, then showed me where to position them, never once mentioning the bosses that were about 6-10" away. In fact, those 11" tubes wouldn't fit between the frame members at the bosses. One would, as Jon mentioned, have to go with shorter (7.5") supports.
Apparently there was an information "gap" (breakdown) between the factory and at least some people in Service. Whether there still is a gap or that was just an isolated instance remains to be seen.
I'm curious as to the source of your information regarding the design purpose of the bosses.
I'm like Don in that a Foretravel sales and service center advised me on the length (11.5") and strength (2"X4"X1/4" web) of the (4) support blocks that I use. I am using just about what that service facility was routinely using (they were using (4), 11" long 2"X2"X1/4"web supports, so I have some overkill when compared to theirs).
It has always been my understanding that the bosses have the following (2) design purposes:
- Design would rather that the frame members have "point contact" versus "length contact" in extreme suspension travel situations. That minimizes the chance of exceeding the design stress at the hinge point (e.g. - due to dirt build up on the frame rail).
- Design also wants to fine tune the end point of "aired-down" suspension travel. Without the bosses, the tire will deform the floor beyond acceptable margins. In fact, service centers have "shimmed" coaches by building the bosses slightly higher to counteract too much travel when completely "aired down". Most Unicoaches have tire contact at all four corners when the suspension is fully aired down. But it is my understanding that the bosses prevent permanently deforming the floor, particularly if aired down when significantly off level and the humidity is high or the floor otherwise contains a high moisture content.
FWIW,
Neal
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Jon Twork on March 15, 2011, 06:57:11 pm
Post by: Jon Twork on March 15, 2011, 06:57:11 pm
All I care to say about the situation is, that I was in Nacogdoches when I became enlightened on the subject. The method that I have used has also worked well for me for over six years. It is easy and effective. I like things like that. Not much else to share on the subject, I guess.
Regards,
Jon Twork
Regards,
Jon Twork
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Rick on March 16, 2011, 10:52:41 am
Post by: Rick on March 16, 2011, 10:52:41 am
Jon,
I'm curious as to the source of your information regarding the design purpose of the bosses.
I'm like Don in that a Foretravel sales and service center advised me on the length (11.5") and strength (2"X4"X1/4" web) of the (4) support blocks that I use. I am using just about what that service facility was routinely using (they were using (4), 11" long 2"X2"X1/4"web supports, so I have some overkill when compared to theirs).
It has always been my understanding that the bosses have the following (2) design purposes:Is it possible that someone is just confusing the bosses as a handy reference point over which (hollow) 7.5" safety blocks can be reliably placed to safely support the coach?
- Design would rather that the frame members have "point contact" versus "length contact" in extreme suspension travel situations. That minimizes the chance of exceeding the design stress at the hinge point (e.g. - due to dirt build up on the frame rail).
- Design also wants to fine tune the end point of "aired-down" suspension travel. Without the bosses, the tire will deform the floor beyond acceptable margins. In fact, service centers have "shimmed" coaches by building the bosses slightly higher to counteract too much travel when completely "aired down". Most Unicoaches have tire contact at all four corners when the suspension is fully aired down. But it is my understanding that the bosses prevent permanently deforming the floor, particularly if aired down when significantly off level and the humidity is high or the floor otherwise contains a high moisture content.
FWIW,
Neal
That's what they looked like to me and I thought they were hard rubber bumpers but I got in there and took a good look at them and they are welded in pieces. Also if you look at the chassis design, it looks like a support block placed at the "shim" points would support the main beam tube as opposed to a beam that is welded above it. The "shim" point location looks like the best place for any blocking/support.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Barry Beam on March 21, 2011, 03:09:46 pm
Post by: Barry Beam on March 21, 2011, 03:09:46 pm
........................These bosses were put there to indicate where to put veritically placed round or square tubing approximately 7.5" high for the purpose of keeping the chassis elevated during servicing. Those who use these bosses always either use four for front work or four for rear work or eight when working under the whole coach..................................
That is my understanding of the situation and I thought I should pass it along.
Regards,.......................Just as interesting is the fact that my instructions for where to support the frame and how many support members to use were given to me by the (then) service manager at Foretravel. He had one of the FT guys cut me 4, 2"X2"X11" square tubes, then showed me where to position them, never once mentioning the bosses that were about 6-10" away. In fact, those 11" tubes wouldn't fit between the frame members at the bosses. One would, as Jon mentioned, have to go with shorter (7.5") supports.Jon,
Apparently there was an information "gap" (breakdown) between the factory and at least some people in Service. Whether there still is a gap or that was just an isolated instance remains to be seen.
I'm curious as to the source of your information regarding the design purpose of the bosses.
I'm like Don in that a Foretravel sales and service center advised me on the length (11.5") and strength (2"X4"X1/4" web) of the (4) support blocks that I use. I am using just about what that service facility was routinely using (they were using (4), 11" long 2"X2"X1/4"web supports, so I have some overkill when compared to theirs).
It has always been my understanding that the bosses have the following (2) design purposes:Is it possible that someone is just confusing the bosses as a handy reference point over which (hollow) 7.5" safety blocks can be reliably placed to safely support the coach?
- Design would rather that the frame members have "point contact" versus "length contact" in extreme suspension travel situations. That minimizes the chance of exceeding the design stress at the hinge point (e.g. - due to dirt build up on the frame rail).
- Design also wants to fine tune the end point of "aired-down" suspension travel. Without the bosses, the tire will deform the floor beyond acceptable margins. In fact, service centers have "shimmed" coaches by building the bosses slightly higher to counteract too much travel when completely "aired down". Most Unicoaches have tire contact at all four corners when the suspension is fully aired down. But it is my understanding that the bosses prevent permanently deforming the floor, particularly if aired down when significantly off level and the humidity is high or the floor otherwise contains a high moisture content.
FWIW,
Neal
James,
On the newsgroup it is being said that there is a "Support Locating Boss" specifically there for the 2x2x11" steel frame supports that you put for safety.
I always thought that was a bumper stop.
That does not look right to me.
Can you clarify where you put the supports when working under the coach?
His answer.
Where you are putting the 2x2 block or steel bar is correct.
You are right it is the frame stop or bumper stop.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: George Stoltz on March 21, 2011, 03:18:05 pm
Post by: George Stoltz on March 21, 2011, 03:18:05 pm
It would appear from Barry's post of 03/21/2011 that James at the factory was willing to weigh in on this matter. It is gratifying to see that they are willing to provide such information. This is a very important area. Thank you, Barry and thank you, James.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: ncaabbfan on March 21, 2011, 08:03:18 pm
Post by: ncaabbfan on March 21, 2011, 08:03:18 pm
Just to be sure of our info here, I went to the expert and asked.
James,
On the newsgroup it is being said that there is a "Support Locating Boss" specifically there for the 2x2x11" steel frame supports that you put for safety.
I always thought that was a bumper stop.
That does not look right to me.
Can you clarify where you put the supports when working under the coach?
His answer.
Where you are putting the 2x2 block or steel bar is correct.
You are right it is the frame stop or bumper stop.
So if I understand correctly, 4 each of the safety blocks (2"x2"x1/4"x 11" h as a minimum) are required and they are to be placed at each corner of the coach close to the airbag and between the house structural member to which the top airbag flange is mounted and the chassis structural member to which the bottom airbag flange is mounted.
Am I understanding it correctly?
I currently have 4 each of 2"x5"x1/4"x11" h steel tubing pieces cut and ready for use.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: George Stoltz on March 21, 2011, 08:07:48 pm
Post by: George Stoltz on March 21, 2011, 08:07:48 pm
Too eliminate any possible confusion, could someone post a picture showing the correct location for the supports?
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Barry Beam on March 21, 2011, 08:12:55 pm
Post by: Barry Beam on March 21, 2011, 08:12:55 pm
Too eliminate any possible confusion, could someone post a picture showing the correct location for the supports?
Working Safely around your Foretravel (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=10632.msg50986#msg50986)
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Barry Beam on March 21, 2011, 08:15:21 pm
Post by: Barry Beam on March 21, 2011, 08:15:21 pm
Just to be sure of our info here, I went to the expert and asked.
James,
On the newsgroup it is being said that there is a "Support Locating Boss" specifically there for the 2x2x11" steel frame supports that you put for safety.
I always thought that was a bumper stop.
That does not look right to me.
Can you clarify where you put the supports when working under the coach?
His answer.
Where you are putting the 2x2 block or steel bar is correct.
You are right it is the frame stop or bumper stop.
So if I understand correctly, 4 each of the safety blocks (2"x2"x1/4"x 11" h as a minimum) are required and they are to be placed at each corner of the coach close to the airbag and between the house structural member to which the top airbag flange is mounted and the chassis structural member to which the bottom airbag flange is mounted.
Am I understanding it correctly?
I currently have 4 each of 2"x5"x1/4"x11" h steel tubing pieces cut and ready for use.
You have it correctly.
Total of 4. 1 for each corner.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: ncaabbfan on March 21, 2011, 08:22:17 pm
Post by: ncaabbfan on March 21, 2011, 08:22:17 pm
You have it correctly.
Total of 4. 1 for each corner.
Thank you very much!!
Morris
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: George Stoltz on March 21, 2011, 08:26:47 pm
Post by: George Stoltz on March 21, 2011, 08:26:47 pm
Thank you, Barry. I will follow what I saw in your photo.
George Stoltz
George Stoltz
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Don & Tys on November 21, 2011, 10:20:51 pm
Post by: Don & Tys on November 21, 2011, 10:20:51 pm
In addition to the safety blocks to guard against sudden deflation of the Air Bags, has anyone here made their own ramps to get the coach higher in the rear for the bulkhead repair? Also, my yard slopes a bit towards the street, and although the Air Bags manage to make it level, I don't like the idea of having the rears maxed out for too long a time, so three layers of 2X10's can raise the rear end by 4.5" to make it a bit easier for the leveler to keep it that way. I am posting two pictures of the ramps I am making. There are 4, one for each of the dualies. I plan to make some spacers out of some 3/8" all thread to keep them in line with each other and to keep them spaced to be centered under each of the rear tires. Additionally, I am going to use wheel chocks on two of the ramps to keep it from going off the deep end. I looked on the web for some commercial solution, but the only heavy duty rams rated for the weight that I saw were extremely expensive. Since the ground is fairly level side to side where the coach sits, I think this should be very stable and will give extra working room. Any comments? Am I crazy or what? (don't answer that!)
Don
edit: Going crazy(er) trying to get these pics to post right side up. They look fine on my computer... what a pain!
Don
edit: Going crazy(er) trying to get these pics to post right side up. They look fine on my computer... what a pain!
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart on November 21, 2011, 10:29:30 pm
Post by: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart on November 21, 2011, 10:29:30 pm
Good job. Should give you that extra little clearance you need.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Don & Tys on November 22, 2011, 01:18:13 am
Post by: Don & Tys on November 22, 2011, 01:18:13 am
Thanks! I plan to get the coach up on them tomorrow. I will post some pics if I do...
Don
Don
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Roland Begin on June 30, 2012, 09:38:54 am
Post by: Roland Begin on June 30, 2012, 09:38:54 am
Great looking ramps. I will be making a pair for the front before I attempt my bulkhead repair. Will use yours for a pattern. Especially like the chock, don't think I would have thought of that.^.^d
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Don & Tys on June 30, 2012, 08:03:02 pm
Post by: Don & Tys on June 30, 2012, 08:03:02 pm
Thanks! They have been there for months now... I guess I forgot to post a picture with the coach up on the ramps, so here it is. I can't imagine doing the work I am doing with 4.5" less ground clearance! Remember, there are also eight 1/4" thick walled 2" square tubing posts, 11" long next to each airbag to block the body up off of the suspension. Had I to do it over again, I would have made them 12" high because the air bags are able to provide that much clearance. If you only have two of these post per axle, placing them next to the bulkheads will try to pull the bulkhead away from the basement, so unless you need the clearance to get rust out, my opinion is that it is far better to have one for every air bag. If you choose to open up the gap in the bulkhead this way, I would still use 4 stand off posts but just make the ones closest to the bulkhead joint a wee bit shorter because I shudder to think what would happen if it pulled apart and kept on going. When I did this, I had about 8 long 3/8" bolts through the joint with nuts on the basement side to keep it from going too far. I could do that because I had the bottom skin off and full access to the joint. Your milage may vary! If you want to talk to me about it, feel free to PM me and will give you my phone number. My method was unconventional (and a hell of a lot more work!) because I think the severity of our bulkhead issue necessitated a different approach than the others you may have read about, but that is just my take on it.
Don
Don
Great looking ramps. I will be making a pair for the front before I attempt my bulkhead repair. Will use yours for a pattern. Especially like the chock, don't think I would have thought of that.^.^d
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: BamaFan on December 28, 2012, 11:11:51 am
Post by: BamaFan on December 28, 2012, 11:11:51 am
I don't know the "anatomy" of a FT suspension system yet, thus my question. I haven't seen any mention of jackstands in this thread, so apparently their use would not be a safe method of preventing the coach from dropping. But why not?
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Rudy on December 28, 2012, 11:18:22 am
Post by: Rudy on December 28, 2012, 11:18:22 am
Morning BamaFan,
Rather than jack stands, one inserts 11 to 12 in long square tubes or iron pipe behind each air bag. The ends need to be cut square so they will stand on the lower beam on which the air bag is mounted.
Lower the bags trapping the support between the top and bottom beams and it will not come down on you unexpectedly.
Rather than jack stands, one inserts 11 to 12 in long square tubes or iron pipe behind each air bag. The ends need to be cut square so they will stand on the lower beam on which the air bag is mounted.
Lower the bags trapping the support between the top and bottom beams and it will not come down on you unexpectedly.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: wolfe10 on December 28, 2012, 11:20:10 am
Post by: wolfe10 on December 28, 2012, 11:20:10 am
I don't know the "anatomy" of a FT suspension system yet, thus my question. I haven't seen any mention of jackstands in this thread, so apparently their use would not be a safe method of preventing the coach from dropping. But why not?
Not sure it wouldn't be safe, but putting the "blocks" where the air bags are (front and rear of each wheel position) GUARANTEES that the coach will not come down. Smaller, less expensive and perhaps 2 seconds each to install/remove.
Brett
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Gary Bouland (RIP) on December 28, 2012, 12:11:51 pm
Post by: Gary Bouland (RIP) on December 28, 2012, 12:11:51 pm
Bamafan, Here is photo of what some us have made to act as safety supports. They are set in between the upper and lower frame members and will support coach is air is lost.
Gary B
Gary B
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Barry & Cindy on December 28, 2012, 12:38:33 pm
Post by: Barry & Cindy on December 28, 2012, 12:38:33 pm
When using safety supports, find something that will remind you they are in place, like a ribbon from support to outside of coach.
Several have driven off with supports in place, which can cause lots of damage to coach.
Several have driven off with supports in place, which can cause lots of damage to coach.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: coastprt on January 23, 2013, 11:18:20 am
Post by: coastprt on January 23, 2013, 11:18:20 am
I went to Harbor Freight tools and bought 4 standard receiver hitch tubes to use for safety supports . They are 2" square and 12" long. One end has a welded base that works well to keep it upright when placing into position next to the airbags. They are electroplated and powder coated for rust protection. Maximum space between the frame supports on my coach is just over 12 inches after starting/airing up, and using the raise button and arrows for manual leveling to its maximum height. I then lower the airbags till the tubes are snug in between the frame members (can't pull them loose). Not cheap at $17.99 each but a very inexpensive form of insurance when working underneath. I agree with all the other posts on this subject. Stay Safe!
Jerry
Jerry
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: MemoryRoads on January 23, 2013, 05:22:03 pm
Post by: MemoryRoads on January 23, 2013, 05:22:03 pm
I want to stay safe/can't take any more injuries'', so this idea caught my attention.
Garry's yellow posts show slots and holes in upper tubing. Necessary? or safety for tie wraps? Harbor Freight box tubing units ... cuts the cost and will work fine. Advantage/disadvantages?
any other comments??
ron
Garry's yellow posts show slots and holes in upper tubing. Necessary? or safety for tie wraps? Harbor Freight box tubing units ... cuts the cost and will work fine. Advantage/disadvantages?
any other comments??
ron
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Keith and Joyce on January 23, 2013, 05:32:41 pm
Post by: Keith and Joyce on January 23, 2013, 05:32:41 pm
Jerry,
Now that is a great way to obtain safety stands!
Keith
Now that is a great way to obtain safety stands!
Keith
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: TulsaTrent on January 24, 2013, 01:40:56 am
Post by: TulsaTrent on January 24, 2013, 01:40:56 am
They are 2" square and 12" long. One end has a welded base that works well to keep it upright when placing into position next to the airbags. They are electroplated and powder coated for rust protection. Maximum space between the frame supports on my coach is just over 12 inches after starting/airing up, and using the raise button and arrows for manual leveling to its maximum height.
Anybody know how Jerry's "over 12 inches" on his 1993 compares to the Unicoaches and newer coaches?
Thanks,
Trent
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: TulsaTrent on January 24, 2013, 01:46:02 am
Post by: TulsaTrent on January 24, 2013, 01:46:02 am
I think I remember someone posting a picture of safety stands to which he had welded handles to make them easier to carry and manuever under the RV (they may have been painted white).
I looked through this whole thread and could not find them, so they must have been in a different thread. I tried a few searches but could not find them.
Anybody remember them and what he used for handles?
Thanks,
Trent
I looked through this whole thread and could not find them, so they must have been in a different thread. I tried a few searches but could not find them.
Anybody remember them and what he used for handles?
Thanks,
Trent
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: John Haygarth on January 24, 2013, 10:20:40 am
Post by: John Haygarth on January 24, 2013, 10:20:40 am
Used mine for the first time yesterday as I wanted to slide the gen out to try and get up to the foot brake valve to stop some air leaks. Just put the front 4 in and worked good as I slid under to release muffler pipe. I then noticed that it is not the gen that makes getting to that valve hard but the frame for genset!!! How do you get a good position for getting at those lines and valve??
My safety blocks are 3x3" 1/4" wall tube with end plates welded on= 11". No handles as I do not see a need for them.
Left this job for another day and got back to my friends CC. Fixing falling off slide corner mouldings with 3M tape.
John H
My safety blocks are 3x3" 1/4" wall tube with end plates welded on= 11". No handles as I do not see a need for them.
Left this job for another day and got back to my friends CC. Fixing falling off slide corner mouldings with 3M tape.
John H
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Michelle on January 24, 2013, 12:08:54 pm
Post by: Michelle on January 24, 2013, 12:08:54 pm
I think I remember someone posting a picture of safety stands to which he had welded handles to make them easier to carry and manuever under the RV (they may have been painted white).
I looked through this whole thread and could not find them, so they must have been in a different thread. I tried a few searches but could not find them.
Anybody remember them and what he used for handles?
Thanks,
Trent
Whew - took a few tries with "search", but would it be Brian's (Aspenpilot) post here:?
Generator Box and Frame Blocks (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=12797.msg68111#msg68111)
Michelle
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: TulsaTrent on January 24, 2013, 02:26:53 pm
Post by: TulsaTrent on January 24, 2013, 02:26:53 pm
Whew - took a few tries with "search", but would it be Brian's (Aspenpilot) post here:?
Generator Box and Frame Blocks (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=12797.msg68111#msg68111)
Michelle
Thanks, Michelle -- How do you to that? :o
That *might* be them but I had not remembered them being 4x4x3/8" -- those have to be heavy to move around (guess that's why they have handles), but sure would make you feel safe.
I thought I remembered some that were 2x2" with simple bent rod handles, all painted white, but I could just be channeling my version of the synergistic group design. :-\
Trent
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: TulsaTrent on January 24, 2013, 07:59:43 pm
Post by: TulsaTrent on January 24, 2013, 07:59:43 pm
I went to Harbor Freight tools and bought 4 standard receiver hitch tubes to use for safety supports . They are 2" square and 12" long. ... They are electroplated and powder coated for rust protection. ... Not cheap at $17.99 each but a very inexpensive form of insurance when working underneath.
If you are too cheap to pay for these, Harbor Freight also has some surplus "Foretravel" safety tubes they are selling at a discount for $12.99. These are also 2" square and eletroplated and powder coated, but only 11 3/4" long. They also have a handle: it is about 2" round and welded on for safety. :) The Foretravel logo has been painted over, but you could probably get some nice vinyl ones made. It is Harbor Freight SKU 95884. Will attach a picture. Hope this helps someone. ;D
Trent
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Dave Katsuki on January 25, 2013, 01:31:21 am
Post by: Dave Katsuki on January 25, 2013, 01:31:21 am
Mine are 1 1/2" sq. x 11" overall with a tee welded on the bottom (that was the tubing I had on hand), but you really only need 1 1/2" sq or 2" sq tubing, 1/8" wall, without a base or tee. Go to any weld shop and they can cut 8 of them for you on their chop saw in a jiffy. Would be surprised if they cost more than $5 each.
I suspect I could get 12" long pieces in, but it would be tight.
I suspect I could get 12" long pieces in, but it would be tight.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Don & Tys on January 25, 2013, 11:54:03 am
Post by: Don & Tys on January 25, 2013, 11:54:03 am
On our 99' U270, 12" length or even 12.5" is doable on all corners. I wish I would have known that before I made the 11 inchers... Doing the kind of work I have been doing underneath makes every inch count!
Don
Don
Mine are 1 1/2" sq. x 11" overall with a tee welded on the bottom (that was the tubing I had on hand), but you really only need 1 1/2" sq or 2" sq tubing, 1/8" wall, without a base or tee. Go to any weld shop and they can cut 8 of them for you on their chop saw in a jiffy. Would be surprised if they cost more than $5 each.
I suspect I could get 12" long pieces in, but it would be tight.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: TulsaTrent on February 07, 2013, 05:13:09 pm
Post by: TulsaTrent on February 07, 2013, 05:13:09 pm
Speaking of safety stands, anyone know if 2"x2"x1/8" square ALUMINUM square tubing would be sufficient?
How about bolting or welding two of them side by side?
Please let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Trent
How about bolting or welding two of them side by side?
Please let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Trent
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Dean & Dee on February 07, 2013, 07:50:13 pm
Post by: Dean & Dee on February 07, 2013, 07:50:13 pm
Speaking of safety stands, anyone know if 2"x2"x1/8" square ALUMINUM square tubing would be sufficient?
How about bolting or welding two of them side by side?
Please let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Trent
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: gam on February 07, 2013, 10:12:33 pm
Post by: gam on February 07, 2013, 10:12:33 pm
The compressive strength of 2.125 x 2.125 x12" long structural steel tubing with a .125 or 1/8" wall is 36,000 lbs . So two at a wheel can hold 36 tons. With all the alloys of aluminum having different compressive strengths I would not use aluminum. Gam
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Ronb on February 07, 2013, 10:15:38 pm
Post by: Ronb on February 07, 2013, 10:15:38 pm
It is not necessary for them to be rectangle shaped. I used 3" sch. 40 pipe which has a 1/4" wall thickness.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: gam on February 08, 2013, 12:06:16 pm
Post by: gam on February 08, 2013, 12:06:16 pm
12" long sch 40 seamless pipe should be good . The standard rigging safety factor is 5 to 1 so if the wheel load is 5 tons the blocking must be able to hold 25 tons. It is had to believe how much weight a hollow shape can hold.As part of a rigging class I would cut the ends out of a Campbell's soup can .Them mount it in a 50 ton shop hyd press and take bets on how much weight it would hold. Time and again they will hold just over 1200 lbs. Gam
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: fouroureye on October 25, 2013, 12:26:54 pm
Post by: fouroureye on October 25, 2013, 12:26:54 pm
Barry
Will your specs for safety tubing.. work on a u280?
Will your specs for safety tubing.. work on a u280?
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: fredlewers on April 14, 2014, 11:06:29 pm
Post by: fredlewers on April 14, 2014, 11:06:29 pm
@ JD Stevens & others: Screw Jacks Lifting Support Jack House Floor Leveling Floor Support Sagging (http://www.ellisok.com/ellisok/products_screwjacks.html) these jacks are pretty good quality & rated to support houses.... used them to support a pole barn we rebuilt at the farm a couple of years ago. Nice features are: Acme Thread, variety of sizes & capacities, assumed professional engineering, and FAST availibility. Fortunately I've got hydraulic leveling jacks... UNFORTUNATELY I've made a living fixing broken technology so I'm EXTREMELY paranoid about trusting my life to hydraulics, pneumatics, computers, or the government. Please use something folks to prevent getting squished. I personally know of more than one tech that has been injured because they didn't use a jackstand. I almost lost a leg to a slowly collapsing scissor jack. Glad it collapsed slowly....
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: David Bethard on April 14, 2014, 11:44:12 pm
Post by: David Bethard on April 14, 2014, 11:44:12 pm
2x4's 11.5" long glued with construction adhesive and screwed together with long screws work fine and it's cheap. 4x4 would work fine but laminated 2x4's is stronger and supports the weight of the coach easily. If I had steel tubing laying around I'd use it but it's not necessary. In the interest of safety do not get under a coach without some kind of safety support.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: GKCigar on September 15, 2014, 02:53:33 pm
Post by: GKCigar on September 15, 2014, 02:53:33 pm
After reading through these posts I'm still not sure where to place the safety stands. I have 4 2X2 1/4 inch wall steel tubes 12 inches long. Do you place them at the inside airbag or the outside airbag? Thank you all in advance! :D
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Gary Bouland (RIP) on September 15, 2014, 02:59:23 pm
Post by: Gary Bouland (RIP) on September 15, 2014, 02:59:23 pm
Place them between the upper and lower frame members in front of and behind air bags.
Gary B
Gary B
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Barry Beam on September 16, 2014, 04:32:06 pm
Post by: Barry Beam on September 16, 2014, 04:32:06 pm
After reading through these posts I'm still not sure where to place the safety stands. I have 4 2X2 1/4 inch wall steel tubes 12 inches long. Do you place them at the inside airbag or the outside airbag? Thank you all in advance! :D
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: GKCigar on September 16, 2014, 06:22:30 pm
Post by: GKCigar on September 16, 2014, 06:22:30 pm
Gary and Barry, Thank you for your replies. Looking at the picture is that the airbag in front of the tire or behind the tire? Or does it not matter?
Thanks again
Thanks again
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Roger & Susan in Home2 on September 16, 2014, 07:28:03 pm
Post by: Roger & Susan in Home2 on September 16, 2014, 07:28:03 pm
I put them in front and behind, two per corner and both sides of the axle. To lift the whole coach I use eight posts. Be sure to use wheel chocks as well.
Roger
Roger
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: amos.harrison on September 20, 2014, 06:14:06 am
Post by: amos.harrison on September 20, 2014, 06:14:06 am
I think most of us use 4 posts-one per corner.
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on September 20, 2014, 07:51:59 am
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on September 20, 2014, 07:51:59 am
Like Roger, I use 8 safety stands - one at each air bag. I got mine from Harbor Freight, on sale (at the time I bought them) for $9.99 each. A couple of them can also serve as light barbells if you need a little exercise. :P
12 in. Long 2 in. Standard Receiver Tube (http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-long-2-in-standard-receiver-tube-69879.html)
12 in. Long 2 in. Standard Receiver Tube (http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-long-2-in-standard-receiver-tube-69879.html)
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Roger & Susan in Home2 on September 20, 2014, 09:54:15 am
Post by: Roger & Susan in Home2 on September 20, 2014, 09:54:15 am
Safety first, use two per corner. Do both front wheels or both rear wheels or all four wheels to prevent the coach from twisting if you lose air.
I got two 48" receiver tubes from Northern Tool when they were on sale for about $39 each. A bit of sawing and you have 8 ~12" posts. 2" square tubes are nice and steady.
Ultra-Tow 2-Inch Standard Weld-On Receiver Tube with Collar 48in. Length (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612683_200612683)
Roger
I got two 48" receiver tubes from Northern Tool when they were on sale for about $39 each. A bit of sawing and you have 8 ~12" posts. 2" square tubes are nice and steady.
Ultra-Tow 2-Inch Standard Weld-On Receiver Tube with Collar 48in. Length (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612683_200612683)
Roger
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: D.McGee on November 03, 2017, 10:45:49 am
Post by: D.McGee on November 03, 2017, 10:45:49 am
Old topic I know...
Any specific differences or, unique requirements, on the subject of using blocks to safely secure under chassis access on a Nimbus?
dan
Any specific differences or, unique requirements, on the subject of using blocks to safely secure under chassis access on a Nimbus?
dan
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Pamela & Mike on November 03, 2017, 01:44:22 pm
Post by: Pamela & Mike on November 03, 2017, 01:44:22 pm
Any specific differences or, unique requirements, on the subject of using blocks to safely secure under chassis access on a Nimbus?
Dan,
We use the same safety stands on our 320 as we do on a Nimbus.
Mike
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: D.McGee on November 05, 2017, 08:56:51 pm
Post by: D.McGee on November 05, 2017, 08:56:51 pm
Thanks Mike....
dan
dan
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: JohnC on December 09, 2021, 12:18:53 pm
Post by: JohnC on December 09, 2021, 12:18:53 pm
Hi,
I am new to this forum and wanted to say thank you everyone for the safety tips. After reading everyone's input I am ready to make some safety blocks and work on (under) my FT!
I am new to this forum and wanted to say thank you everyone for the safety tips. After reading everyone's input I am ready to make some safety blocks and work on (under) my FT!
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: dlkj07 on December 19, 2021, 03:07:04 am
Post by: dlkj07 on December 19, 2021, 03:07:04 am
Regarding safety blocking frame to work underneath...is there a different technique for the IFS models?
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: Jan & Richard on December 19, 2021, 02:12:39 pm
Post by: Jan & Richard on December 19, 2021, 02:12:39 pm
...is there a different technique for the IFS models?
Title: Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel
Post by: craneman on December 19, 2021, 03:17:51 pm
Post by: craneman on December 19, 2021, 03:17:51 pm
Regarding safety blocking frame to work underneath...is there a different technique for the IFS models?
Move this to tech talk general questions and you may get some answers.