Is there any rule of thumb on when to sanitize the fresh water tank? After how long a storage should the tank be sanitized? Should the tank be kept full while not be used?
As always, thanks a heap for everyone's help!!!!
It is recommended that you thoroughly sanitize the water system upon delivery, following long periods of non-use, and after any suspected contamination.
http://www.beamalarm.com/Documents/how-to-sanitize-the-fresh-water-tank.htm (http://www.beamalarm.com/Documents/how-to-sanitize-the-fresh-water-tank.htm)
Some filter water before it goes into the tank, which some consider bad practice, and possibly require sanitation from time to time.
I put only chlorinated water into our tank and ingest only water filtered at the sink. In this case I do not consider it necessary to sanitize the tank.
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best, paul
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Rudy,
I go by the motto "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". Whenever the coach is not in use for longer than a week in storage, I dump the fresh water as well as the grey & black tanks. I then sanitize the fresh system in preparation for a trip. I've thought of just leaving the unused water in the tank while in storage and then just add the chlorine and top off the tank to begin the sanitation procedure, but then I thought, why carry all that water from the campground to the storage facility?
Yup, best practice is to sanitize anytime the water in the tank/lines has sat for over 3 weeks in the winter, a shorter time in the summer (bacteria grows faster in warmer conditions).
Also, filter the water coming in with a sediment ONLY filter element. A charcoal filter is fine for water you are going to use right now, but removing the Chlorine before storing is a receipt for microbe growth. A 5 micron sediment filter is ideal.
Then, a charcoal filter (such as the ADC filter most of us have under the sink) removes the chlorine, etc immediately before use.
Brett Wolfe
Brett,
Taking the chlorine out of the water isn't the only thing charcoal filters take out. If you take water from anywhere but a city system with chlorine (wells, cisterns, etc), short of reverse osmosis, every filter between you and the "bad stuff" is a good call. Even city systems have bad stuff with the chlorine.
If its chlorine you want, put it in the tank yourself. This way, you know what you are drinking.
Offshore, on our boat, the RO system gave us 2 H's and an O. We put chlorine in the tanks (especially in the tropics) and supplements in our diet to make up what we took out. Nothing that we didn't know about went into us.
I use a water softener and two filters outside, and the standard ADC inside. Bleach is put in the tank.
OK, here is something that is scary for you, and, why you can't get enough filters.
After my last post, the DW asked how long would the chlorine last in the tank anyway. Having had fish, I figured "not long" or the fish would die.
So, I googled it and found information about fluoridated systems. They use the good old standard fluoridation, and, some use Chloramine. :o Regular stuff is out in 1-2 days less if aerated. Chloramine is forever, unless chemically stripped.
Makes taking water from the sewer a viable option.
See what they are putting in!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chloramine (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chloramine)
If I am not mistaken, Chlorine becomes inactive as a sanitizer after 24 hours. If it is used to sanitize the system it works great. However, if you think that adding Bleach to the Fresh Water Holding tank will keep killing the bugs on subsequent fills after the initial 24 hours, I believe it will not. I use my water system almost continuously but as Brett said, whenever I think there was a chance of contamination or i have to use water from an uncertified source or it has sat for more than 4 weeks, I sanitize. Other than that I don't worry about it. We drink from the tap and the tank all of the time following this regimen.
I do use a sediment filter whenever I hook up.
I ain't dead yet.
I believe Fluoridation is used to help harden the enamel of the teeth and not for sanitation. Chloramines are a more stable form of chlorine sanitizer that does not dissipate over time, but it is used in such small quantities (PPM) that it is not dangerous to humans. It's stability, low odor and the fact that it does not affect the taste of of water are causing increased use of chloramine to replace chlorine. I am not too worried about it but I am not a water snob.
What don't kill ya makes ya stronger.
We assume the tank water is contaminated to a degree. Thus, we use bottled water for any water we are going to drink that has not been cooked. We use tank water mainly for bathing and washing clothes and dishes.
We also sanitize the tank once at the start of a trip. I fill the tank and add about a cup of bleach. Then I let it set overnight and empty the tank. I then fill the tank and empty it again.
We do use a charcoal filter but I don't expect it to do much after the first few gallons. It does remove sediment and for me, that is enough to expect from it.
I don't worry about fluoride ion in the water and I am not concerned about a small amount of residual chlorine in the water after sanitizing the tank. I don't worry about city water chlorine levels.
Me too, Peter... Usually, the ounce of cure I use is a single malt, which generally becomes several ounces as the evening progresses.... ::)
Seems like a good time to ask this question. George H mentions filling and draining a couple of times....my question, is there a secret way to drain? Using the teensey weensey drain on mine would take a week to drain a full tank.
Open a faucet and empty into holding tank.
Bill,
I'm with you 100%. Fortuantely, I am strictly a social drinker. Unfortunately, I've been doing way too much socializing lately... :o
We made a PVC gravity feed pipe directly into the fresh water tank and add an ounce of bleach pre-mixed with a quart of water when filling 50 gallons of water.
We also run our city water hose fill through two charcoal filters when filling our fresh water tank by the way of our gravity feed. Then we use our water pump 24/7 for all of our water supply needs. City water hose is disconnected after filling fresh water tank. This gives us consistent chlorine control.
Barry has touched on a critical part of keeping the on-coach water potable-- USE IT.
Worse thing you can do is put water in the potable water tank and just let it sit. Many hook up to CG water 100% of the time. This lets the water in the tank stagnate for long periods of time.
If you use the water from the tank (as we do) it will always remain fresh.
Brett Wolfe
How does one add chlorine to the fresh water tank to sanitize? Just pour it in the water intake hose and then connect a fresh water supply to fill?
You all should take in to consideration of what fish do in water.
The folks in Lynchburg TN, have taken that all in to consideration.
DO NOT CONSUME WATER (in any form,ICE ect) without diluting with JD
Ron,
The hose approach works. I'm not familiar with your water set up, but make sure the hose in installed to the coach intake, make sure the valve is in position to go to the freah water tank, pour chlorine into female end of hose (at spigot end), connect to water spigot, and fill the tank. Open all faucets after tank is full to fill the lines with chlorinated water. Allow to sit for at least 3 hours, dump water, refill tank. If you want add a couple tablespoons of baking soda (same method as the chlorine) to the new fresh water and that will remove any chlorine taste (although if you use a kitchen filter [ADC?] it will remove the chlorine taste as well.
If you use a whole house filter to remove sediment etc, simply remove the filter, add the appropriate amount of chlorine and fill the tank.
Bob,
You know I've tried that approach, and the cotton-pikin' chlorine stayed in the empty filter canister. Maybe it's just the way I've set up the sediment filter canister permanently in the utility bay.
ps. Just remember to that once you insert the chlorine in the hose the water valve must be in the tank fill position; otherwise all the chlorine goes into the delivery pipes to the faucets, etc, instead of going into the tank.
I don't remember having a problem with chlorine remaining in the housing, but I will double check the next time. Guess, you could just leave the filter in and add chlorine. Don't know if that high a dose of chlorine would do anything to the filter though. Probably want to make sure and run the water through immediately after adding the chlorine.
I have to come clean. I use pool chlorine in granules. It's like many times more potent than the household bleach which also leaves a nasty taste & smell. Since it is in granules, the whole physical flow is different. I've always said "This time, I'm going to dissolve the granules before putting them into the empty filter canister", and I always forget...drat! >:(
Charcoal filters remove chlorine.
The flow of water is forced down through filter within filter housing. Without a filter in the housing, water flow is in and out at the top. But by putting a "straw" on round center part of filter cover, that reaches to inside bottom of filter housing you have a better chance of flowing all hose water into your chlorine solution that is in your filter housing.
Barry,
I suppose that the sediment filter would not trap any chlorine due to molecular size. So your idea would work better than taking out the sediment filter.
Thanks for the help, I'll give it a try.
Since I use city water from the house I don't sanitize the tank. There is enough chlorine in the water to keep the system in good shape. Only on rare occasions have I had to fill at a well that was not chlorinated and since this was a short term thing I did not bother. I ALWAYS use water from the tank and avoid using CG water if at all possible, this gives me assurance that I know what water pressure I have from my pump and also a known water supply. At the end of each trip I dump remaining water and open faucets to clear out piping . If I was full timing I might look at this differently.