After getting tired of fighting with them I lubed them all with WD40 - handles, locks, and side latches. They are like new! One touch and the handle pops right out.
Dave, These pop out handles can be a PITA. I use a silicon lube on them. The RR one on the battery compartment I had to take apart and clean the dirt out of it. For some reason its the most trouble.
Dave, doesn't WD40 eventually gum up with dirt? I used to use WD40 for about everything, but somehow I let others convince me that WD40 wasn't the best thing for many things. However, when I think back I don't ever recall having problems with things I used WD40 on. I have read that WD40 is not a lubricant although it lubricates for me. I have been told it is a parafin base and will gum up over time but I have used is for decades on my guns with no problems.
What is your take on WD40?
Guys,
CorrosionX is for guns, locks and other lube needs, plus it does not attract dust as does most other good lubes. And you kill corrosion while lubing the item. It is a stellar lubricant.
My front A/C fan would not spin up Thursday evening. When I checked it, the shaft was very stiff to turn. I doused the shaft near the bearing with CorrosionX while turning the fan. We then started the fan and it spun up to speed. I doused the shaft two more times for good measure and let it run for 30 minutes and turned it off.
When I went up to put the shroud back on the unit, the fan was windmilling in the breeze. This is the second time I have gotten a fan to run without having to replace the motor.
Funny how these subjects come up, WD40 must be good for something, I use it on lots of things, like rusty threads etc, but NEVER use it on a electric analog timing clock, it will gum it up real snug.
Same on other like items, timers etc that are common in control circuits in the older days before the computer and solid state.
WD40 and 5-56 have screwed up may little gadgets that became dead after trying to make nice and smooth with some good spray lube. Silicone does much much better for above projects.
Dave
What I did on the back ones was first spray them with a penetrant - Deep Creep, I think its called (same people that make SeaFoam). Then sprayed with electrical contact cleaner to wash out the dirt. Then sprayed with the WD40. The little straw will just barely open the lock 'window'.
I don't use it much. It repels water and I suppose it may gum up some over time. But any decent cleaner washes it right out too. Anything will gum up eventually when you expose it to the elements and add dirt.
Now that is enough of a endorsement to convince me that I should order some! Sounds like very good stuff. Isn't it made by the same folks who make Rejex?
Pat,
Yes, I just ordered both online at their web site.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/index.html (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/index.html)
I believe they may still have special price... I should be receiving both this week.
I use Lock Ease on mine and on the entry locks, works great. It is a graphite suspension and dries to just leave the graphite. Remember tubes of powdered graphite? This is much neater and the nozzle is designed to go in the keyhole.
John, I had something like this once before called Dri-Slide and haven't been able to find it again. It was for motorcycle cables and it was great. Where do you get Lock Ease?
I'm fairly sure I got it at Home Depot but I would think that locksmiths would have it also.
I had an internal piece of one of these latches break. I bought a replacement latch from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com (http://www.mcmaster.com), item #1638A11, $36) and changed out the broken piece. It was obviously keyed differently and had a different connection shaft on the end but every thing else was the same inside. The symptoms of the broken latch was the center button stayed depress and the handle would not pop out with out some fiddling.
I use Lock Ease at the carwash constantly. Just about any hardware store carries it.
Jim Monk
1997 Foretravel &270
True value hardware carries lock ease in my area.