Is there any place I can download an owners manual for a 1980 foretravel? I turned the gas on and the propane detector stopped beeping..yet I have no gas flow! Either Im missing something or the solenoid is stuck... ( Im a newbie so I hope im missing something...) and yes, I have LP in the tank. I had it working once months ago when I tested it but nothing tonight
I emailed you a 1979 manual that should be close to the 1980.
Thank you SO SO much! I didnt really find anything relating to LP detectors and gas shutoff problems though. Might have been a 1980 and newer issue. I was in the RV, turned on the gas and the detector.. waited for it to stop beeping then tried gas appliances but had no gas going to them. Hmmm
ss66, It takes a while for the gas to get up the lines,,,,are you sure you waited long enough?
Mike
When the detector goes off it shuts off the tank electronically, ::) you must manually shut the tank supply valve off to reset the safety valve.. :) :) :)
I have the brown LP Gas detector near the floor in the kitchen cabinet with an on/off switch and a blinking green light in my 93, U225. Once it is reset I do not have to turn of the main valve on the LP tank. On my 93, U300 I have a smaller cream colored detector with a push button switch and no flashing light. I have not yet had to reset it but I am glad to know that I may have to turn off the valve to reset it.
Gerry, is the LP Detector on your 94, U300 the brown blinker or the smaller cream colored push button type?
I have a 93 GV and finally gave up on the detector working correctly. I think the glue I used to stick the carpet down in places or something has it confused. I seem to remember there was a discussion on the old forum about these detectors being very prone to problems. This Foretravel is the first MH I have ever owned that even had one. I closed the valve at the tank, pulled the cover and removed the solenoid plunger at the tank. Seem to remember there were pictures on the old forum on how to do that also. Checked for leaks and I was in business. I use after market detectors in place of the factory one. I do have to open the compartment to open and close the hand valve manually, but that's not a biggie. Since it takes awhile for gas to get to the hot water heater, I usually open that line and wait for gas to show up when I use the GV. Closing the tank valve when I put the GV back in storage is just one of the items on my "to do" list.
Kent, Mine is a "Hydro Flame" Brand combination Propane & CO, detector. It has a sensor at floor level on the back side of the stairwell wall, toward the kitchen, and a remote monitor panel above the stairwell that displays what type gas is being detected. They are light gray/white in color. There is a test button at both locations, when pushed for a test or by accident it will sound an alarm and shut off the propane tank. This happens occasionally when our waste basket get pushed back into the corner too far or the cleaning lady gets wild with the vacuum cleaner. :)) :))
Not sure on these older style detectors, but I know the one in our '03 is a type that has a finite life. In general, 7 years old and they should be replaced.
-M
Gerry, your detector is different than the one on my U225 and my U300. I am afraid I have no experience with your models to share but will watch this thread to see how you resolve your problem. Please post the results of your quest.
Kent, I was replying to "ss66" 's problem.. My only problem is the aggressive cleaning lady :)) :)) :)) :))
Gerry, that is one problem I don't have. Please don't pass this on to DW.
Sometimes, when the propane is unused for a long time with the tank valve shut, it may take many attempts to get the refrig, furnace, hot water and stove to light. I once had to loosen the connections at the refrig and hot water heater and allow some gas to flow in order to clear air out of the lines. Of course one must be careful not to flip switches, smoke or create any ignition sources while doing this and to test for leaks after tightening the connections. I'm a bit late with this thread and the problem is hopefully solved.
My experience with several RVs has been similar to Jerry's. If the unit is not used for a while, it can be hard to get the propane appliances started. I usually work with the stove top. If you turn on a burner, you should be able to hold a butane stove lighter near the burner and see air movement blowing the flame. That indicates that pressure from the propane supply is pushing gas through the line. If there is no flow, then the supply is empty, something is clogged, or a valve is closed. I haven't had to deal with that issue, except when the propane/propane detector switch was off.
If there is gas coming from the burner, keep a flame from the stove lighter near the burner. After a while, the burner will light. After I get one burner to light, I will light the others to get a good charge of propane into the lines. After doing that procedure, I have been able to get the refrigerator and water heater to work in the RVs I have owned.
Hi Jerry,
If you have a propane stove top , you might turn on and hold down a burner control until you can light it. This brings the gas up to the appliances so the refrigerator will light also.
Jim
2002 U320
Jim,
I"m not the guy with the problem, but Foretravel installed separate gas lines to each appliance from a manifold near the tank on my coach, so getting one to work didn't clear the air out of the other lines. The stove of course is no problem, just open a burner and hold a flame to it until it lights like you said. The furnace which uses a lot of gas will clear the line with 2 or 3 attempts. The refrig doesn't use much gas, so clearing that line takes many attempts and the water heater has a long line to clear. Foretravel may have done it differently on other coaches.
Also from previous posts, many of us who had the propane detector that operated the solenoid gas line valve have removed the electrically operated valve. The ProTechTor brand detector that operates the valve is no longer available. Propane detectors are subject to nuisance false alarms from hair sprays, the dog passing gas, and other sources, that would cause the valve to close until it was reset by turning the power off then back on. My old detector would test and open the valve if it wasn't too cold, but it could not detect propane even when it was directed into the unit from an unlit propane torch. A good unit might require 15 seconds worth before it alarms. I don't like like doing this test, but would like to know if my detector really works. Propane detectors have a useful life of just a few years and need to be replaced if they can't really detect propane. There may be other brands that will operate a solenoid valve as someone mentioned above. About a year ago I was able to buy an identical looking ProTechTor, it had no provision to operate the valve, but did fit in the cutout for the old one.