Rick, Do you by any chance remember how many feet of fuel hose you needed for the change-out in your coach. I realize I have a Unicoach and the genset in front. Anyone else done a genset fuel hose swap on a Unicoach that chan help with the length of hose needed? I would have to guess otherwise as I will need the old hose to "fish" the new hose into position. Is it the same spec hose (Aeroquip 2556-6)?
Jerry Whitaker 96 U270 36' replaced his Generator lines
http://beamalarm.com/Documents/replacing_generator_fuel_lines.htm (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/replacing_generator_fuel_lines.htm)
This might help you Peter.
Barry,
Thanks for the reminder. I remember reading that post and wishing I'd never have to do that...ever. Well, all good things come to an end. It's my turn.
Thanks Jerry as well for a great post and illustration.
Peter,
I bought no more than 32 feet to make sure I would not be short and I did have some left over. Note in the post that 15' of each was the final use length. As you know my generator is mounted in the side of the coach. I believe someone posted here about changing hoses on a front mounted generator. The Aeroquip hose was about $3.00/foot and I opted to use the exact replacement. Others have used generic diesel fuel hose.
good luck
I remember those pictures .... found Jerry's album as well. The one picture looks like it should be from the front page of world news ... Motorhome eats man, onlookers in shock! Remember to stretch for 20mins before you attempt this repair!
I posted this to the other "wont run" generator topic by mistake.
The fuel hoses on my PowerTech 10K generator (96 U320) were cracked and the feed line was feeding air as well as diesel. There was never a pool of fuel under the coach overnight because the cracks were in a high spot where the fuel line was bend. The genset would run for 2 to 30 minutes. Fuel hose used was 35 ft of 3/8 for the two lines going to the fuel tank and 2 foot of 5/16 for the short pieces on the genset itself. I bought 45 feet of hose and have 14 feet of spare hose. One of the 3/8 hoses is attached to the fuel tank at the top on the driver side which required removing the driverside bulkhead.
Steve;
Just what ,are we supposed to stretch for 20 minutes????? teeheee
I don't know that I can do anything for 20 min. I do stretch a while each morning to keep the bones in line. But, I gotta admit, my hat's off to Jerry for tackling this job. It may be above my stretch level. I'm sure he came out half digested by the motorhome.
The tech at MOT (Both of the FOT techs were off somewhere) told me they usually just splice a replacement in the area of the bends where the fuel lines exit/enter the generator area - that is where the severe bend is and where the hoses usuall crack and leak. Worked for me. He said their customers usually prefer that repair to having to remove the fuel tank and do a complete fuel lines replacement.
Jerry's technique is marvelous, but at 235 lbs/74 inches, I doubt I could manage it!
I was looking at fuel lines from generator to fuel tank. Inspecting fuel lines from gen I see some duct tape wrapped around one of the hoses under the front end, I don't know if it a rub spot or what, I noticed that the return line seems very hard, and the supply doesn't seem so bad. There are 2 diesel tanks , 1st is larger so I'm sure it's for the engine, 2nd is smaller so it supplies Aqua Hot and generator. I can see the path of fuel the lines to gen, And I can see lines coming off tank to engine, My question is, are the engine lines rubber all the way back, or is there hard lines through the coach? I replaced Aqua Hot fuel lines the other day, so I think I will replace gen lines. Gen return line is probably hard because of the heat ?
Thanks Art
Hi Art
Few weeks ago had to have my coaches fuel line to Aqua Hot repaired: there was enough slack to allow it to be cut and pulled forward to reattach. It was cracked/leaking on the 180 curve.
In seeing this I asked about other lines needing to be replaced - was told that the '96 units are now needing to have lines replaced and it is a time consuming job to run all them - Be glad you can do this project and save the $'s for fun times
You might want to call FOT parts dept and ask what the line is for fuel to the generator, get a price from them to compare to also
So...taking a cue from Peter and Beth, I decided to replace the fuel lines for the generator while replacing the sound insulation for the generator box. As I'm not as trim as Jerry Whiteaker, I had my doubts as to whether or not I'd fit on top of the propane take. Well, as it turns out, I had no problem getting in to position. The problem was getting out. I was stuck for a little more than 15 minutes! :o Note to self, do not wear a belt while working in tight spaces, as the buckle will get hung up when trying to extricate. As I was not going to let the fuel lines beat me, I grabbed a beer while I thought of a new plan of attack. Solution..pull out the propane tank. It only took about 10 minutes to remove the tank. The hardest part was moving the tank from the compartment to the wagon I used to wheel the tank out of the way; the tank was half full. Once the tank was removed, I had clear access to the top of the fuel tank, thereby making the removal of the fitting VERY easy with a stubby 3/4" wrench. The line on the left side of the tank is a no-brainer.
I'm very glad I removed the propane tank, as was able to assess the condition of the mounting bolts. Being pretty rusty, I decided to replace the four bolts, as well as the six bolts for the fuel tank with new grade-8's. In the attached picture, the third bolt from the left, the one with the coarse threads, is one of the bolts which go to the fuel tank. The ones with fine threads go to the propane tank.
Rest of the week? 1) Finish generator box reline. 2) Reline engine compartment. 3) Start thinking of new TV's.
Brian,
Removing the LPG tank would have been even more difficult if you had a drawer above the tank as we do on ours. You can turn that into storage space if you want to. That is if you want to add more stuff to your to do list.
Hi George,
I took the picture after I removed the drawer. The mounting bracket only has four screws holding it in place. I hereby revise my time for making the propane compartment clear; from 10 minutes to 12. :D BTW, I just receive the new fuel hose and fittings..so off to the garage I go.
Brian,
You are having way too much fun.
Brian,
I'm not that skinny, but didn't wear a belt. What did the bottom of the propane tank look like, was it a bit rusty? I have been thinking of removing mine just to paint the tank. It's almost empty, but frankly thought even an empty tank would be too heavy for me to slide out.
Hi Jerry,
The bottom of the propane tank was perfect, not a hint of rust. As for removing the tank and putting in back in, this is what I did. My wife and I were able to get the tank out by putting her garden cart perpendicular to the propane compartment. As the drop from the propane compartment to the wagon was only about four inches, I was able to slowly lower the end of the tank on to the cart while my wife pulled the cart away. Putting the tank back in was another story. Since there was no way she would be able to lift the tank, I called a couple of friends and promised them each a Guinness for their assistance. :) They were over straight away. It took all three of us to get the tank back in; me on the end pushing, and the two of them lifting. Hope this helps.
Brian,
Your new bolts look AN bolts. Did you get them from Aircraft Spruce?
Hi John,
I did not get AN bolts from Aircraft Spruce..they've taken way too much of my money over the years. ;D I just went to my local Ace for Grade 8 bolts. They were about $1.25 each.
Hi: Brian...I had fuel leaking from a generator hose, repaired it and then 5 months later we smelled diesel fuel inside the coach. Then I found the main pressure line to the engine as it leaves the bay area in front of the rear end seeping fuel. When I removed the lines from the bays I found the return engine line seeping thru the hose inside the bay. I replaced all engine fuel and generator fuel lines on my 98 U295, 40 ft. with stainless braided hoses, Since they have removed the sulfur from the diesel fuel which is causing problem with rubber components and rubber hoses. Not alot of fun it took about 12-14 hours, but Foretravel quoted about $1400.00 to do the job.
regards Gary
Last November it cost me $1,400 to have Cummins change the generator fuel line. To boot, it seems they've screwed up the genset mounts. They'll keep you coming back for more if you just don't quit taking the coach to them. Then again, maybe it's time to replace the mounts.
Gary where did you purchase your stainless braided fuel line?
Thanks,
Gary, Peter, & Beth:
$1400? I would have done it for $1000 ;D Actually, with the propane tank out, getting to the fitting on top of the tank was no problem at all. All-in-all, it took about an hour to remove the old hoses and install the new ones.
Note: I received the insulation material today..so..hopefully..I'll be able to finish the job on Wednesday or Thursday. Pics will follow.
I just completed the generator sound insulation/fuel lines/propane tank removal/powder coating project this afternoon. I would say the hardest part of the project was getting the generator back on to the tray, with a close second being the placement of the sound absorbing material. What made it difficult was the spray adhesive. Once the adhesive is applied to the material and the mounting surface, you are supposed to wait about three minutes for it to get tacky. It becomes VERY sticky. Once the piece of material touches the mounting surface, it's on for good; the is no second chance to reposition. Of course, the adhesive was not the only means of adhering the material to the surfaces. I also used two inch long stainless spikes that were bonded to the walls approximately about 16" on center. The last picture shows the 90 degree connector I used at the top of the tank (return line) so as not to put a too tight bend in the hose.
I'm glad this project is behind me..on to the next one!
Brian,
Absolutely a first-rate job.
Howdy Brian, Great job..Thanks for the wonderful pictures....dave abel
As one who has seen it 1st hand yesterday, I can say it is a great job. Nice work on the other projects Brian. Great spending time with you & Jennifer. Hope to do it again when in the area.
Great looking job Brian. We have the exact same generator. Have repaired radiator leak, replaced radiator mounts, fixed broken air cleaner bracket and broken heat shield mount, replaced fuel hoses, replaced automatic voltage regulator. Will have to do the insulation in the near future. Hope that's it for awhile.
Brian, can you tell us the product you used and where to get, the job looks great.
Bill,
I purchased all of the materials from a place named Cyber Bridge Marine 888-270-8555 or 702-617-2710. John was very helpful in guiding me to the correct product. I used the 1" thick, 2lb per square foot material. Engine soundproofing Insulation Barrier Marine (http://www.cyber-bridge-marine.com/Vinyl-Foam-Insulation-1-2-Lb-27-Sq-Ft.html) It consists of a layer of mass loaded vinyl sandwiched between two layers of polyether fire retardant foam covered by a thin vapor barrier facing. When I do the engine compartment next month, I'll be using the 2" thick, 2lb per square foot material Generator - Engine Room Soundproofing Barrier (http://www.cyber-bridge-marine.com/Engine-Room-Generator-Soundproofing-Barrier-2-In-X-4-5-Ft-X-6-Ft-X-2-Lb-Per-Sq-Ft.html)
Hope this helps!
Thanks Brian.