I have to slam our front door awful hard to get it to latch. Especially good enough to lock the deadbolt.... I know most of these RV doors have a striker plate and a latch bolt. I've always just loosened the latch bolt and adjusted it in or out until the door closed good and was tight enough to use the deadbolt... But this 2003 latch bolt slides up and down and I don't see a way to move it in or out....
Anybody been this route and know how to adjust it so I don't have to SLAM it so hard?
Thanks
Mike
Mike, We have exactly the same problem. If we close it easy, it will stay shut, but it is not fully latched. We have to really SLAM it.
I hope someone posts a solution for us.
Dont laugh, but on a expensive German car, had to use silicone spray on the rubber door seal and also used silicone on the door lock so the door would close easy. Yes I am aware the Foretravel is not a German car, but just a thought.
PS, Mike, the PressurePro reads 5 psi higher on all four on the pickup when set with the Milton gauge. The coach is at Xtreme for a few more weeks.
Most interesting gadget. :))
I cannot find my photos of when Foretravel adjusted mine,
but I seem to remember they removed the 6 screws on the floating latch on the door frame and adjusted it behind there.
That latch is supposed to be floating.
I've got the same issue on my 2003. Need to really slam it in order to slide the deadbolt. Also need to press on the door slightly for the remote to unlock the deadbolt. I too am awaiting an answer.
That would be the first thing I would check ... does that pin move up and down
freely? If its not then you can remove the plate (the bolt just unscrews so you can more easily clean and lube the mechanism so it moves freely. George posted a picture of how much that pin should move in this post http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=9645.msg43002#msg43002 (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=9645.msg43002#msg43002)
As an added benefit this it also eliminated a door squeak we had when going over bumps.
That's the first thing I did was lube that bolt. It was already moving freely and the lubing did not help.
Mike
My door on an older Foretravel was hard to close because the hinge was worn. Go to this website of Beamalarm to see how I helped correct the problem with washers. There are other solutions too. The washers or clips go where the hinge leaves are making contact with the door open. Your problem may be different, and/or you may have a different hinge. Washer size is 5/8" o.d. 25/64" i.d. and slightly less than 1/16" thick.
http://www.beamalarm.com/Documents/sagging-door-repair.htm (http://www.beamalarm.com/Documents/sagging-door-repair.htm)
I had a similar problem recently when the wind caught the door and it opened with excessive force. I found that the retaining bar (not sure what it is called) on the top of the door was bent. The bar runs from the top of the door to the frame of the coach. I tried to straighten it as much as possible and that solved the problem.
Adjustment proceedures
http://www.beamalarm.com/Documents/ptl_pos-a-loc_cable_adjustment.html (http://www.beamalarm.com/Documents/ptl_pos-a-loc_cable_adjustment.html)
It appears my "Pos-a-loc" is fine,,,,,,it's not bent or loose and it catches and releases fine. This has no bearing on the door slaming as far as I can see....
Am I missing something?
Mike
Mike, I think I am onto the solution. Check out the attachment. Let me know if this works out for you. Dick
Dick,
Thank you so much for providing the tutorial on the door adjustment, its fantastic information .... now its on my early spring to-do list !