Does the Prosine Inverter/charger charge the chassis batteries only when the Boost switch is in the Boost position?
I have noticed the last two times we sat for two weeks that the battery sounded real weak when the starter was first engaged. After the first grunt it spun the engine fine, but that initial load caused the Driver Information Center to lose all previous settings; it reverted to default settings. The temperature was lower 40's.
I'm wondering if the batteries are just down on the charge, if there is a poor cable connection, or if the batteries are getting bad. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Dick
Dick -
I have the ISM 450 HP. Had same issues. First and cheapest step is make sure your cable connections are clean and tight. I had same symptoms, mine were loose, and when tightened - problem resolved.
Tim
Agree with Tim, I had similar issue also, and between adding a heavy 2/0 to the ground and battery (-), solved the big issue I had. Then I added a small 12 VDC Battery Tender to the rear engine batteries, now they also stay in a cheerful state with out playing the boost switch game.
Enjoy
That is correct. http://beamalarm.com/Documents/boost_switch.htm (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/boost_switch.htm)
A lot of us have added a trik-l-start to keep the engine battery charged without having to use the Boost Switch.
http://beamalarm.com/Documents/trik-l-start.htm (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/trik-l-start.htm)
If they are the original Batteries they are getting long in the tooth.
Also check all your charging connections especially the grounds .
It is the cause of more headaches in the charging system if they are not clean.
Dick,
Aside from the battery question which is a good one. According to James Triana, it is important to use the Boost Switch prior to starting the engine because it will turn over faster and start quicker. He went on to explain that the less wear and tear we put on our starting motors, the longer they will last. Faster starting, less use on starter. Slower starting, more use of starter.
I suggest that you use your VOM to check the battery voltage at the battery to determine if you have a battery problem, or else install a remote reading panel voltmeter for the engine batteries somewhere in the coach so you can read it at any time. They are available on Ebay for about ten bucks.
Regards,
We bought this coach in Palm Springs in March and the service tech told us that he replaced the chassis batteries with new ones (we did not get any documents). I am a little suspicious of this because he also told me that a load test on the house batteries was great. We later found out that the house batteries would barely hold us for one night of dry camping.
What I want to confirm is; if I turn ON the Boost switch when I arrive at a new park, will both the house AND chassis batteries be kept fully charged?
They should both be charged when you arrive at the park because the alternator charged them.
If you put the boost switch ON they should both stay charged although the engine batteries should not need to be charged over just a few days.
Assuming the boost solenoid works along with the charging section of your inverter, and both battery banks are good. Don't forget tight connections.
Another reason to deal with MoT and FoT.
Do the starting and coach batteries charge in storage if you are plugged in to elec? Do you need to push in boost switch?? Just stored mine with aqua hot on elec on. New to foretravels... thanks. Rob u320 2002
Yes you will need to push in the Boost switch to charge the engine battery.
http://beamalarm.com/Documents/boost_switch.htm (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/boost_switch.htm)
See thread below for other options.
Hi Rob,
Yes, what you described is the proper way, but: If you leave the boost switch on and lose your power for a prolonged period of time, you can possibly drain all of your batteries with nothing left to start either engine or generator.
The recommended way is, if possible for you, only turn on the boost switch for a day or two every couple of weeks. This way, if the house batteries goes dead, you can restart with the chassis batteries.
Good luck,
LynnD
'01 GV
There is another issue, here as well, first your house batteries are fine. If yu get one not out of them without recharging that is all you will get out of three 8d's. If you add a 4th you will get a few more hours. There are a lot of loads on your house side. Each puck light is an amp draw your tv and receiver the parasitic loads of the Bose the fridge and the fans for the heating. I can get a full night out if I am careful with energy. Also it depends on the voltage that the auto start is set for. It is usually set to protect the batteries and not let them het too low.
Now the start issue, I had that too. It was and is caused by the junction box the FT puts in. I posted some photos and a thread on this last year. The easiest and best way to fix it is to fix the ground stud first. FT used a star washer to bite into the paint. Remove it scape the paint and put it back on with a regular washer. Then run a second cable from your side terminals on the optima directly to the started. On most coaches it is a short run. Put them on right behind the ones FT use. Finally, have cummins check and see if your ECM needs an upgrade. Mine had 27 include 4 for hard starting issues. It was all about the number of revolutions before the fuel would fire. Now cold weather starts are no issue and with the extra cable you no longer will need the boost switch. In fact the boost switch is only putting 100 amps over as that is the rating. You are not getting the whole big bank. I learned that the hard way then saw it happen when at a rally and a owner had a bad start battery. We couldn't start the coach with just his one remaining and the boost switch and that was on a 270. We brought up his toad and used jumper cables to get the power to get him in a campsite so he could drive and buy a new battery.
The new cables and an ECM upgrade and a trickle start will fix it right up. This is the second coach I have done of mine and I gave done this on three friends so far and a few other friends have done it as well. I told James Triana about it as well at the grandvention
I was reading some have added a battery tender to the engine batteries. What type, brand, and model battery tender did you add? I have a 2001 U 320 with 3 blue top Optima batteries. I have the coach set up (parked) permanently and want to purchase a battery tender to keep the engine batteries fully charged in the winter. Thank you for any information you can give me.
Phyllis,
We use the Trick-l-start Ultra TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer (http://lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html) with good success. Simple to install works great while on shore power or solar.
Mike
Trikl charge has a limited power output. IF the batteries are fully charged to start with and the chargers rating is not exceeded they work fine.
I had left my headlights on by accident and ran the engine batteries down and the trikl Charger failed internally.
Green light on still. No power out.
Batteries failed. New batteries required.
A battery combiner works/worked better but is more expensive and requires installation but fixes the issue permanently IMO.
Depending on your bus's electronics, you may or may not charge all of the batteries when plugged in. My early ORED does not. I disconnect the engine battery when left for more than 1 week. I use the little digital volt meters on both of my Cig plugs on the dash. The closest to the steering wheel is the engine/ chassis battery socket . It reads about 12.4 after sitting for a month. Starts no problem in any over 40* temps so far.
If the engine volts read less then 12.4 I will use the boost switch to add voltage to the engine battery/s from the house batteries. Before Engaging the boost switch, read the volts from all of the batteries . If the house is under 12.5 or so, start the gen set and bring up the volts before combining the bats. You want to avoid discharging all of the batteries of course.
Engage the boost, wait a few minutes to let the volts come up, engage the starter. As mentioned, the boost will only pass a certain amp value. It will allow the battery to be charged to full (ish) voltage.
Using a trickle charger on any of the batteries will help maintain the proper volts. They will be ruined in short fashion if the engine is started while they are plugged in. This puts their overload breaker in use and they are not happy.
Boost switch used only in emergency as it sucks juice, gets hot and can ruin both sets of batteries in case of shore power failure. Continuous rating does not mean over a long period of time.
I generally just use the OEM charger but if coach is not used for a long period, I use a small charger as featured in the attachment and connect at electrical bus.
Both battery banks are kept charged by a lighter plug to lighter plug cord as seen in attachment. It CANNOT start a fire or short out as the female lighter receptacles are both fuse protected plus each end of the cord also has a 2 amp fuse. I keep the digital voltmeters on all the time as a quick glance gives me the battery status. Both plugs have a LED light to indicate they are powered.
As you can see, the voltages for both banks are exactly what I wanted.
Pierce