Got the electric step installed today, and now I am on to planning the oil change on our just purchased 1994 U240. I am confused about filters, and maybe a little about oil.
1. 15W40, right?
2. The Cat 3116 manual shows one oil filter, but does not give a number. The FT manual lists a Cat 3208 in one place, with two filters, and a Cat 3116 in another with one filter. Beam's website does not show a Cat in 1994. I am pretty sure I have a Cat 3116, but I have three filters. Are the two bypass filters factory, or an add-on?
3. The primary filter is a 51791, the secondary filters EABP-110. Are these right? I would like to make sure the proper filters were used last time, before I replace with the same.
4. The bypass filters are Amsoil brand, early records show Royal Purple oil. Do you think it now has synthetic in it? Is there an easy way to tell? I have no maintenance records for the past several years.
5. What else do I need to know, other than there will be a lot of oil coming out of that little hole?
Matt B
1994 U240
Mat
Make sure you have a container that will hold all that oil coming out of that little hole. :) At least a 6 gallon container. I use Shell Rotella T multigrade SAE 15-40. Find a good source for your filters and oil close to home. Also i keep 2 sets of fuel filters and 1 oil filter in the MH while traveling. also a couple gal. of oil and coolant. Keep a record of all your maintenance and repair.
15-40 oil (Delo 400 or Shell Rotella T). Quantity: 21 qts including filter change.
Buy the oil and secondary fuel filter from Caterpillar.
You have a single oil filter: Caterpillar 1R-0739.
You have two fuel filters: 2-Micron fuel filter secondary: Caterpillar 1R-0750. Primary fuel filter: Racor S3202 Red (30 micron) OR Blue (10 micron).
You have a Coolant filter: whether it is a zero SCA or filter containing SCA depend on what coolant you have.
Air filter Fleetguard AF872M, Donaldson P181099, Wix 46726.
Brett
I went out and looked again. There are three oil filters. One is block-mounted, two are driver's side frame rail mounted, directly outside of the primary filter, and about the same level. One line for the two filters comes from the port that has the oil pressure sending unit on the passenger side of the engine, the other line is hard to trace. There is a petcock on the mount, when I turned it black oil came out.
This must be an owner-added item.
Matt B
mysterious U240
I identified the fuel filters one on the engine one on the driver's side frame rail.
To address the volume of oil, this little device make draining the old oil a cinch:
http://www.fumotousa.com/ (http://www.fumotousa.com/)
I had one on my coach for 3 years now and it works great. I directly fill 1 gallon plastic milk jugs at a time using the valve to stop the flow between each jug. Then it's just a matter of labeling the jugs for curbside recycling (if available). Now if only changing the filter was this clean.
It seems to have a good quality seal and the mechanism is such that an accidental release of the lever would be improbable. I worried a little about it sticking down too far and getting caught on something but that too seems to be unlikely but it is somewhat of a risk. For others coaches and engines with a lower pan it might be a much higher risk. Just something to check out before buying. Full disclosure: I have no affiliation or connection with the above company.
John,
I have one, ready to install when I drain the oil! I did get the one with the snoot for attaching a hose.
Matt B
Matt,
Post a photo of those three oil filters. Never heard of that one-- it is sure not Caterpillar or Foretravel.
The Caterpillar oil filter (Caterpillar 3116) is on the driver's side of the block, just behind (toward rear of coach) the turbo/exhaust.
I suspect that will also materially alter your oil fill quantity if you leave those extra filters.
Brett
I hope I have included an attachment. What I have looks like the one on the right. My additional filter system is apparently an Amsoil branded bypass filter system. The filter numbers are for a two micron filter. So, my next question, does anyone know if I can use an over-the-counter filter to replace these, or do I have to find an Amsoil dealer? Their website makes me think of Amway - I saw no way just to pick and order something.
I was hoping to run by the parts guy for filters, Walmart for oil, and have this done before lunch. This is more complicated than my Toyotas!
The filters add 2 quarts capacity per filter.
Matt B
obtuse U240
Hey Matt,
I have been an Amsoil Dealer since 1981 and have had the bypass system on my coach for two years . There is no substute for the two micron bypass filter. I pull an oil sample (Amsoil SAE 15W-40 Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil) every six months and have it tested. After two years of service, my oil is well within a normal range. AMSOIL recommends changing the EaBP120 (if thats what you have) every other full-flow filter change up to 90,000 miles. Extended oil drain intervals should always be accompanied by an oil analysis program. If you have any questions feel free to call me @786-239-4781
The extra filters are a owner-added item for additional filtration. Flite2010 spent some time with me on the phone and helped me figure out where I am going with the oil change. The "110" filters are a two micron, two quart type. The "120" Flite mentioned is a ONE GALLON filter. It must be huge!
Matt B
1994 boxonwheels
Matt,
Now that you know that you have an Amsoil oil bypass system, you know that your engine has been running on synthetic oil with extended oil changes (probably none). But you don't have the oil analysis records. So I think your only recourse is to start from scratch, changing all the oil and filters. Take an oil analysis sample first to use as a baseline to see if it identifies any internal problems.
Your other choice is to return your engine to stock and use manufacturer-specified oil change practices and filters. Good luck!
Brett,
That is what I have chosen to do. I did get oil analysis reports with our coach, but nothing for the last couple of years. It may have cheap oil, or several year old oil. I have in the garage new filters and synthetic oil, waiting for installation.
The use and test approach really appeals to me - it is a way to be a bit fanatical without being wasteful.
Matt B
1994 U240
Thought I would report to you all about the oil change.
No major problems, everything fit properly. The whole process, including neighbor conversations took about four hours! I was very slow and careful the first time. I am glad I had a strap wrench, the filters were on tight, and my car filter wrench did not fit. I first punched holes in the bottoms of the old filters, so they would drain to reduce the slop that comes out of the tops when they are removed. I filled and topped-off the new filters until they seemed pretty full, made sure the seals were oiled, and put them on tightly.
My coach has a guard- two huge metal bars - over the pan, so there is only about seven inches of clearance between the guard and the ground. I had to use a small pan and drain a gallon at a time, replacing the plug when I crawled out to empty the small drain pan. I then left the plug out of the pan until it reduced to drips. I added a Fumoto valve to the pan for an easier time next change.
To fill to dipstick full with a level coach took 21 quarts (engine and factory filter) plus four quarts (two bypass filters), plus two quarts (I assume to be the capacity of the additional lines), for a total 27 quarts. I have a gallon plus a bit left over for top-offs.
My plan is to begin testing in about six months. The oil change job is not difficult, but it is expensive and messy, or very expensive and not messy if you pay to have it done. This idea of testing the oil and using it until it is faulty really makes sense to me. With a car, the test costs about what an oil change costs, so the economy would be lacking, but for a coach or truck...
Robert Rozek, thanks so much for your guidance and your handling the oil and filter purchase for me! If any of you are considering this route, or need oil, filters, or test kits, you might get with him.
1994 U240
Matt,
One minor point. Caterpillar does not recommend pre-filling the filter. Risk of a spec of dirt in the oil (yes, even new oil) outweighs the 3-4 seconds it takes for the engine to fill the filter.
If you feel you must pre-fill the filter, fill the small outer holes (yes, it is slow) as they are the inlets, vs the large center hole which is the outlet to the engine.
And time is what triggers most oil changes in RV's, not miles. That is why you will find very few auxiliary filters on RV applications.
Were it me, I would remove the extra filters and just go with the annual oil change UNLESS you plan on racking up a lot of miles.
Brett