Foretravel Motorhome Forums => Foretravel Tech Talk => Topic started by: Steve & Ginny Hill on December 14, 2010, 10:12:42 pm
Title: Dip stick tube
Post by: Steve & Ginny Hill on December 14, 2010, 10:12:42 pm
Pulled in to the storage yard this afternoon. Walked around back to disconnect the Jeep, and there's oil dripping out from underneath the engine. I open the engine compartment, and there's oil everywhere on the passenger side. I run back up to the cockpit and check guages. Oil pressure good, and no warnings. I shut off engine, and return to the engine bay. I go to check to see how much oil has escaped, and I realize the dipstick and tube are no longer in the crankcase.Wishfully thinking it's just popped out, I raise the bed and hang upside down to try to replace it, but, alas, the tube is sheared off at the block. My question; has anyone done this repair without dropping the oil pan, and if so, how?
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: jeff on December 14, 2010, 10:28:29 pm
Hope this helps...you can also do a search..broken dip stick
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Don Hay on December 15, 2010, 12:32:31 am
Quote
Steve's quote: "My question; has anyone done this repair without dropping the oil pan, and if so, how?"
Steve, It all depends on whether the portion left in the block can be removed by unscrewing it. About 6 months ago, we had a similar experience. However, the mechanic here in Nacgodoches couldn't budge it CCW, so he had to screw it completely thorugh the block, into the pan, drop it and discard the oil and broken tube segment. Murphy's Law: I had just changed the oil the preceding week and lost it all.
If you are fortunate and can get the broken section to come out CCW, you can just screw in the new tube and leave the pan intact.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Gary Bouland (RIP) on December 15, 2010, 08:20:54 am
Steve, Same thing happened on my 95 U280. On the 8.3's this tube is pressed into the lip of the block. Mechanic was able to grab edge of portion remaining with vice grips and wiggle it out of block. As a temp measure on the road he reversed the tube end for end and pushed it into block. Later I had a new tube installed. Good luck
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Dave Head on December 15, 2010, 10:20:25 am
I'm surprised there isn't a flexible coupling there. With the size and length of that tube anchored only at each end failure is only a matter of time.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Don Hay on December 15, 2010, 12:33:03 pm
Quote
My quote: "It all depends on whether the portion left in the block can be removed by unscrewing it".
I went back to my notes and saw that the tube block opening is not threaded, as I implied; it is a smooth bore. Therefore, if you have enough of the original tube to grab onto, you might be able to pull it out as Gary B. indicated. In our case, the break was flush, so Keith had to jam it through into the pan. Sorry for the error.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Steve & Ginny Hill on December 15, 2010, 02:06:25 pm
I'm going to attempt to get a tap started in side the piece left in the block. If I can just get it to catch enough to pull it out. The logistical problem is getting to the darned thing to work on it. I'm going to have to get in touch with my inner contortionist, but I fear those days left about 60 pounds ago. Well, my body may be pudgy, but my joints are stiff.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Dave Head on December 15, 2010, 04:08:08 pm
With words like dip stick, pudgy and stiff I'm keeping my trap firmly closed.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Peter & Beth on December 15, 2010, 04:17:47 pm
With words like dip stick, pudgy and stiff I'm keeping my trap firmly closed.
Dave, Clearly you're not old enough to know that none of these words apply to what you're thinking about to those in a certain age group that I'm in... :'(
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Dave Head on December 15, 2010, 04:28:57 pm
Better living through chemistry!
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Gary Bouland (RIP) on December 15, 2010, 05:16:16 pm
Steve, If memory serves me right the new dipstick tube had a ribbed area on it that stopped its entrance into the block. If that ribbed area is still above the block you may be able to catch it with a vice grip and twist it out. You might also try an easy out or screw extractor if you have one big enough. The mobile mechanic that did mine did it laying on highway asphalt if that tells you anything. Good luck.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: wolfe10 on December 15, 2010, 05:39:43 pm
While I have not seen or worked on this particular dip stick tube, I do have a thought.
What about getting a long bolt whose head is small enough to fit inside the broken piece of the tube. Slide it inside and let the head of the bolt grab the bottom of the tube. Either rig a kind of slide hammer or just put a nut on the upper end of the bolt and use something (vice grips, etc) that give you something to use a hammer on to work the tube up using the head of the bolt.
Brett
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Steve & Ginny Hill on December 15, 2010, 10:52:43 pm
Brett, and Gary; thanks for your replies. All good stuff. the little flange that determines how far the tube seats into the block came off with the tube, so there's nothing left sticking up out of the block. Using either my tap, or a gizmo such as Brett suggested, I'm fairly confident I can get it out, IF I can just get at it. may have to crank it long enough to air the bags all the way up to ease access. Southeast Power (Cummins) here in Tampa ordered a new tube for me from the factory, and it is being overnighted to my door tomorrow. I will keep you posted on my results. Thanks again for all the tips! This forum really is great! What a wealth of knowledge in the collective minds of this group.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: J. D. Stevens on December 15, 2010, 11:03:19 pm
Regarding inflating the air bags, you should be able to do that with HWH panel without cranking the engine. The HWH 12VDC compressor should allow you to inflate the air bags enough to place your safety jacks.
An alternative is to charge the air pressure system with an auxiliary compressor through the air service port. An auxiliary compressor may introduce some moisture into the system if it does not have an effective dryer system, but it might be worth the risk in a pinch.
Best wishes for a successful extraction of the offending remainder for the offending tube.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: amos.harrison on December 16, 2010, 10:28:44 am
You should be able to temporarily RTV a plug in place to allow you to run the engine without making a mess.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: ncaabbfan on December 16, 2010, 11:05:36 am
You should be able to temporarily RTV a plug in place to allow you to run the engine without making a mess.
Are you able to verify you have sufficient oil left in the engine before you start it?
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Steve & Ginny Hill on December 16, 2010, 04:24:51 pm
Bill Willett loaned me an easy-out, but the thing wouldn't budge. No matter how tightly I managed to get the vise-grips on the easy-out it would eventualy slide off from the hammer blows. Guess it is going to the shop.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Kent Speers on December 16, 2010, 07:09:14 pm
Steve, did you try Brett's idea? It sounds like it might work if you can adapt a slide hammer to grab the bolt.
The other possibility is to drive a pointed punch down the outside of the remaining tube section between the block and tube to bend it in away from the block, then grab it with needle nose pliers or needle nose vise grips and work it out of the hole. Or use a 1/4" very sharp wood chisel to slice the tube remnant and bend it in so you can grab it with a needle nose plier.
To me the idea Don Hay suggested "just drive it on through to the oil pan" is a last resort. Chances are if you take it to the shop that's the same thing they will do.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Rick on December 16, 2010, 09:31:39 pm
Bill Willett loaned me an easy-out, but the thing wouldn't budge. No matter how tightly I managed to get the vise-grips on the easy-out it would eventualy slide off from the hammer blows. Guess it is going to the shop.
Brett's idea sounds like a viable solution. Possibly use a socket head cap screw that has round head. Another possibility is to take a piece of steel and make an "L" piece that you can put down into place, hook the edge and hammer up.
I hate the tapered type "easy out". More than once I have had to grind out a broken "easy out" with a die grinder. A tapered easy out used in your situation will just wedge the tube outward possibly making it harder to remove. If you use a tap be careful not to break it. I have used left hand drill bits with great success when removing broken bolts. Sears has a set removal bits that are left handed but I do not know the sizes. Just some ideas, good luck
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: wolfe10 on December 16, 2010, 09:47:38 pm
A further refinement on my "bolt" idea IF you have any surface surrounding where the tube goes into the block:
Insert the long bolt (just small enough for the head to fit down the tube) head down so that it catches the bottom of the dip stick tube.
Run a socket over the bolt with an ID larger than the tube.
Add washer and nut. Tighten nut to pull bolt (and hopefully tube) up. If the whole bolt tries to turn, add a double nut at the very top and hold that with a wrench. You will be able to generate tremendous force-- I use this technique to remove tight bearings where I can't operate a press.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Steve & Ginny Hill on December 16, 2010, 10:13:20 pm
Thanks for all the tips, folks, but this thing has exceeded my aggravation threshold, and I've thrown in the towel. Next stop, Cummins of Tampa.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: ncaabbfan on December 17, 2010, 11:54:58 am
Thanks for all the tips, folks, but this thing has exceeded my aggravation threshold, and I've thrown in the towel. Next stop, Cummins of Tampa.
If you can, find out how they do it and let us know. Thank you.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Bill Willett on December 17, 2010, 12:14:30 pm
I have been working with Steve to get the tube out, after talking to a diesel mechanic for the state of Fl. Harry told me that the only way to remove the tub is to remove the pan and drive the piece out, I also confirmed this with a friend that works at Cummins ion Tampa.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: ncaabbfan on December 17, 2010, 12:34:01 pm
I wonder if there is anything that can be done to prevent this tube from breaking in the future. Who knows how long this tube was partially cracked/broken before it broke off totally.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Peter & Beth on December 17, 2010, 12:44:45 pm
Pulled in to the storage yard this afternoon. Walked around back to disconnect the Jeep, and there's oil dripping out from underneath the engine. I open the engine compartment, and there's oil everywhere on the passenger side. I run back up to the cockpit and check guages. Oil pressure good, and no warnings. I shut off engine, and return to the engine bay. I go to check to see how much oil has escaped, and I realize the dipstick and tube are no longer in the crankcase.Wishfully thinking it's just popped out, I raise the bed and hang upside down to try to replace it, but, alas, the tube is sheared off at the block. My question; has anyone done this repair without dropping the oil pan, and if so, how?
Is this issue caused by corrosion? Only on the Cummins 8.3?
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Brad Metzger (RIP) on December 17, 2010, 05:33:58 pm
Steve ; I am not A wizzard at anything . I had A chit chat with A diesel shop foreman about your dip stick . His quote [ It has got to be vibration related issue .] He went on to say that engine has A high frequency vibration ,much like other diesels , but it is A bit different . His fix reply was support , support , support the new tube . I don't know how this is done , but one of this gang will have the answer . Good luck ,,, Brad Metzger
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Steve & Ginny Hill on December 17, 2010, 05:48:45 pm
There is almost 3ft of tube between the bracket that holds the open end of the tube, and where the tube seats in the block, and it's curved so that as the engine oscillates side to side, it's torgueing the tube at a 90 deg. angle against where it enters the block. I guess after 14 years of that, metal fatigue should be expected. I suppose others who have had theirs fail have been luckier in that their tubes failed slightly above the collar where it seats into the block. Mine snapped off below, so there's nothing sticking up out of the block to grab. A tap nor an easy-out would budge it. Brett's method may have done it if the bolt head could catch on the very thin lip of the tube AND not just deform the edge of the tube instaed of pushing it out. Looking at the new tube, that bottom portion below the collar is knurled, so I have no doubt it is going to take some serious force to extricate it. Well, it's only money, right?
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: gam on December 17, 2010, 10:42:18 pm
To remove tubing stub,use starting tap that will cut threads without cutting through to o.d. of tubing. Load tap with grease before using. This will keep cuttings out of oil pan.When tubing has been threaded,make from all thread rod ,stud 6" longer then depth of thread .Thread stud into hole ,use a socket wrench over stud as spacer,put washer and nut on stud and turn nut to remove tubing stub. I have found this will work most every time. Joe
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Steve & Ginny Hill on December 26, 2010, 09:28:18 am
Well, no one ever said it was going to be cheap to own one of these things. Cummins of Tampa just presented me with the bill for removing the broken dipstick tube and replacing with new one, and an oil and filter change (had to drop pan and dump oil anyway). $918.00. Not saying it doesn't hurt, but my wife and I still work. These kinds of things will be tough when we're retired on a fixed income. Guess it just goes with the territory.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Barry Beam on December 26, 2010, 09:33:28 am
Well, no one ever said it was going to be cheap to own one of these things. Cummins of Tampa just presented me with the bill for removing the broken dipstick tube and replacing with new one, and an oil and filter change (had to drop pan and dump oil anyway). $918.00. Not saying it doesn't hurt, but my wife and I still work. These kinds of things will be tough when we're retired on a fixed income. Guess it just goes with the territory.
How many hours of labor did it take to replace the dip stick & did you see how they did it?
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Gayland Baasch on December 26, 2010, 09:37:31 am
So now the question is, did they cure the problem, or is it just going to happen again? It seems to be pretty common. Mine was replaced by the PO after 10 years, but it probably had higher than "normal" miles on it at that time.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Steve & Ginny Hill on December 26, 2010, 01:36:34 pm
Barry, They had to remove the brace under the engine, remove the oil pan, drive out the old dipstick, replace oil pan and oil pick-up tube gaskets, replace oil pan, replace brace, and replace dipstick. Then replace oil and filter. At $110/hr, it adds up quickly. Gayland, The basic problem of the dipstick tube not being supported well enough still exists, but I intend to see about fabricating some sort of additional support bracket at about the mid-point of the bend.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Don Hay on December 26, 2010, 03:30:46 pm
Does anyone know if this breakage is 1) a Cummins issue in any brand of Class A or 2) just a Foretravel-only problem? Apparently it isn't engine-specific, as Gary and I (with mechanical C8.3's) and others with M-11's have had the problem also. Has anyone heard of SOB's having broken dipstick tubes? Just curious.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Steve & Ginny Hill on December 26, 2010, 05:44:49 pm
Don, There was a Fleetwood Discovery at Cummins in Tampa who'd had the exact same problem. The dipstick set-up IS a Cummins design, not Foretravel's.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: George Stoltz on December 26, 2010, 07:43:45 pm
Well, no one ever said it was going to be cheap to own one of these things. Cummins of Tampa just presented me with the bill for removing the broken dipstick tube and replacing with new one, and an oil and filter change (had to drop pan and dump oil anyway). $918.00. Not saying it doesn't hurt, but my wife and I still work. These kinds of things will be tough when we're retired on a fixed income. Guess it just goes with the territory.
Steve, I feel your pain. We ARE on a fixed income. Big expenses are tough to swallow. But you gave it your best shot.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Steve & Ginny Hill on January 02, 2011, 06:17:58 pm
when I picked it up last tues, to go to my mother's funeral on the east coast of Florida, I found out they also had to drain and replace the coolant because of a hose routed underneath for the retarder accumulator heat exchanger. $670 of the $913 total was labor. After the funeral, we came back to Tampa, and stayed out at Rally Park for the New Years rally. There were 3 Foretravels there, Dusty and Joyce from the keys, Paul and Pixie from Ft. Myers, and us. As we were leaving, I saw a Foretravel coming in with Alabama Crimson Tide logos all over it.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Barry & Cindy on January 09, 2011, 12:02:34 am
We just made new braces for our dip stick to help prevent the breakage that several had experienced. I bent metal and then fastened the metal brace to unused threaded bolt holes on the side of our Cummins C-8.3 engine. Then using rubber covered clamps fastened the dip stick in two places to my new metal braces.
phots are taken from the ground looking up.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: wolfe10 on January 09, 2011, 08:24:34 am
Nice job Barry.
Brett
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Steve & Ginny Hill on January 09, 2011, 09:10:34 am
I can see I've got some fabrication to do.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Michelle on January 09, 2011, 11:45:45 am
We just made new braces for our dip stick to help prevent the breakage that several had experienced. I bent metal and then fastened the metal brace to unused threaded bolt holes on the side of our Cummins C-8.3 engine. Then using rubber covered clamps fastened the dip stick in two places to my new metal braces.
Very nice! Thanks for sharing the photos. I suspect this will be a very popular project.
Michelle
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Jerry Whiteaker on January 10, 2011, 08:04:43 pm
Well dang, I was ready to do Barry's mod, but I'm missing the threaded bolt hole for the long brace. The flat boss is there on the block, sure looks like a threaded hole could be there, and a mud dauber didn't fill it. I have the 3 holes near the end of the tube. I won't be drilling and tapping any holes in the block, too risky.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Rick on January 11, 2011, 08:05:35 am
We just made new braces for our dip stick to help prevent the breakage that several had experienced. I bent metal and then fastened the metal brace to unused threaded bolt holes on the side of our Cummins C-8.3 engine. Then using rubber covered clamps fastened the dip stick in two places to my new metal braces.
photos are taken from the ground looking up.
Barry, From my experience I find that this type of support bracket must be of a substantial thickness such as the cable support bracket shown in the background and also be steel. It looks like the cable support bracket shown is 3/16" or 1/4" thick. Just an observation and maybe the overall configuration requires the lighter weight bracket.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Barry & Cindy on January 11, 2011, 07:22:36 pm
Barry, From my experience I find that this type of support bracket must be of a substantial thickness such as the cable support bracket shown in the background and also be steel. It looks like the cable support bracket shown is 3/16" or 1/4" thick. Just an observation and maybe the overall configuration requires the lighter weight bracket.
Rick, I originally figured the dip stick bracket has to be rigid & sturdy and could be a welded piece of steel with a triangle brace. And the part holding the dip stick to the new brace should be a "U" bolt or the "U" from a cable clamp. This way the dip stick would be firmly held and all movement would not be transferred to the bottom where it goes into the engine block.
I decided on my less strong approach because I was concerned that if a rigid brace was not exactly correctly angled, it would put new pressure on the dip stick and maybe cause it to break. So I decided on a quick less rigid approach for now, so we could have something where there was nothing. The rubber covered stainless clamps are pretty good, but only held down at a single point so they also could move a little.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Jerry Whiteaker on January 12, 2011, 10:49:37 am
I think I will go ahead with just a lower brace as Barry described although I don't have a threaded hole for the upper longer brace. Anything should help reduce the concentration of force where the tube enters the engine block and the tendency to fatigue crack at that point. I also thought about adding some kneadable epoxy, or other type of epoxy around the tube where it enters the block as a way to strengthen the tube. The area would have to be thoroughly cleaned and paint removed in order to get a good bond. Doubt if that part of the engine would be hot enough to harm the epoxy. It might even be possible to repair a broken dip stick tube using epoxy and a metal bracket fastened to the unused threaded holes. I repaired my broken plastic turn signal arm using kneadable epoxy, a much simpler fix. Just thinking out loud.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Peter & Beth on January 12, 2011, 11:03:05 am
Jerry, I agree with you 200% that the place to add the maximum bracing is at the place where the tube breaks...at the entry to the engine block. The additional bracing Barry added is icing on the cake.
Well done, Barry... ;)
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: George Stoltz on January 12, 2011, 12:10:24 pm
Barry, From my experience I find that this type of support bracket must be of a substantial thickness such as the cable support bracket shown in the background and also be steel. It looks like the cable support bracket shown is 3/16" or 1/4" thick. Just an observation and maybe the overall configuration requires the lighter weight bracket.
Rick, I originally figured the dip stick bracket has to be rigid & sturdy and could be a welded piece of steel with a triangle brace. And the part holding the dip stick to the new brace should be a "U" bolt or the "U" from a cable clamp. This way the dip stick would be firmly held and all movement would not be transferred to the bottom where it goes into the engine block.
I decided on my less strong approach because I was concerned that if a rigid brace was not exactly correctly angled, it would put new pressure on the dip stick and maybe cause it to break. So I decided on a quick less rigid approach for now, so we could have something where there was nothing. The rubber covered stainless clamps are pretty good, but only held down at a single point so they also could move a little.
Barry, I know how difficult it is to decide what to do as the different design options go around inside one's head. As I mentioned, just an observation and trying to help with a permanent solution. While I'm at it here is another option. Take a tubing cutter and cut the dipstick tube just outside the block entry point, subtract a quarter inch and couple the dipstick together with a piece of hose to absorb the vibration. Too bad Cummings does not address this issue as it appears to be a common problem. Good luck,
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Bill Willett on January 12, 2011, 03:02:08 pm
Adding a single bracket at the bottom of the tube will only increase the point at witch the tube will break,the harmonic's are coming from the large unsupported bend in the tube, it needs to be supported at or as close to the bend to stop the harmonics. JMO Rick's suggestion of cutting the tube and placing a piece of rubber tubing in the 2 section's is a viable option.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Steve & Ginny Hill on January 12, 2011, 04:00:48 pm
Think of an imaginary line between where the tube enters the block, and where the current single bracket is at the back of the engine. Then find the point of greatest distance between that line, and the dipstick tube, and that would be where I would place the additional brace. IMHO.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: nitehawk on January 12, 2011, 08:57:30 pm
If there is room: (1) piece threaded rod long enough to fit all the way down past the end of the dipstick tube and sticking out about 6". Add (2) nuts just small enough to go into the tube (the size will determine the threaded rod size). Lock the nuts together or weld them to the end of the threaded rod. On the other end slide a piece of heavy wall steel pipeand a couple of heavy washers. Lock nut them on but leave enough room so you have a "slide" hammer.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Bill Willett on January 13, 2011, 01:43:57 pm
I think I will go ahead with just a lower brace as Barry described although I don't have a threaded hole for the upper longer brace. Anything should help reduce the concentration of force where the tube enters the engine block and the tendency to fatigue crack at that point. I also thought about adding some kneadable epoxy, or other type of epoxy around the tube where it enters the block as a way to strengthen the tube. The area would have to be thoroughly cleaned and paint removed in order to get a good bond. Doubt if that part of the engine would be hot enough to harm the epoxy. It might even be possible to repair a broken dip stick tube using epoxy and a metal bracket fastened to the unused threaded holes. I repaired my broken plastic turn signal arm using kneadable epoxy, a much simpler fix. Just thinking out loud.
Jerry, if you have 2 bolt holes in the block at the pan rail, you can use 1/4 x1inch flat bar approx. 10 to 11 inch long, drill a 29/64 clearance hole for a 9/16x 1/2 inch bolt, bolt flat bar to block and bend to the proper angle for the hole for yous hose clamp, this should provide the support you need.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Jerry Whiteaker on January 13, 2011, 03:20:16 pm
I'm still thinking about about the problem, and I only have 65K miles, so hopefully it is not ready to break just yet. I like the idea of cutting the tubing and reconnecting with a piece of hose. Thanks for the suggestions.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: George Stoltz on January 13, 2011, 04:54:08 pm
115,000 miles on our 2000 U320. I'm on thin ice.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Dave Head on January 13, 2011, 06:17:31 pm
135K here... Purring alone.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Barry & Cindy on January 14, 2011, 10:39:41 am
Using a tube cutter sounds great. Will a tube cutter make an inside burr that could interfere with the dip stick? Could remove burr from top piece, but removing burrs from bottom piece will cause metal to fall into engine oil pan. Any ideas on how to not get a burr or how to remove?
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Steve & Ginny Hill on January 14, 2011, 10:55:50 am
Interesting concerns regarding filings, shavings, etc.. The service writer at Cummins here in Tampa told me he would just drive it in from the top, and leave it in the pan. First off, I'm not sure it would be that easy to drive thru from the top, and second, I just couldn't rest easy knowing there was a chunk of metal that size rolling around in my oil pan. Granted, it would probably wind up on the end of the magnetic drain plug, but what if it didn't? Then, again, service writers aren't necessarily good mechanics.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: George Stoltz on January 14, 2011, 08:26:46 pm
I hope Brett Wolfe comments on the Tampa Cummins approach.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Rick on January 16, 2011, 11:46:59 am
Using a tube cutter sounds great. Will a tube cutter make an inside burr that could interfere with the dip stick? Could remove burr from top piece, but removing burrs from bottom piece will cause metal to fall into engine oil pan. Any ideas on how to not get a burr or how to remove?
Get an ear plug (one of the harder yellow ones), compress it and get it into the tube to expand, add some grease, deburr the tube and then take a screw and screw it into the ear plug to withdraw. I would experiment with this technique and proceed if it works. Good luck,
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Jerry Whiteaker on February 24, 2011, 07:38:49 pm
Here are 2 pictures of the dip stick tube bracket that I made to support the tube where it goes into the block. Bought all the stuff at Lowes for about $11. Have more than enough left over to do another one. Took me awhile to figure out that the bolt I needed to fasten it to the block was an M12-1.75 x 25 (metric). The predrilled and threaded holes were full of road crud that had to be removed in order to get the bolt in. The bracket is made of 1/8 x 1 1/2 x 6" flat steel bent to match the angle of the tube. I just put the metal in a vise and hit it with a hammer to form the angle. A metric flat washer and lock washer was necessary to keep the bolt from bottoming out before it was tight.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: Peter & Beth on February 24, 2011, 07:50:36 pm
Real nice, Jerry. This must have been a "1" on the difficulty scale for you compared to the genet fuel hose R&R.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: George Stoltz on February 24, 2011, 10:25:04 pm
Can I bring my coach over to help you get rid of that surplus material?
Sure, but after you pay for the diesel it might be expensive.
Hope it works as intended and reduces vibrations that could be inducing metal fatigue. Didn't have a threaded hole for a brace in the middle of the tube.
Title: Re: Dip stick tube
Post by: MAZ on April 06, 2011, 03:23:35 pm