On my 06 Phenix, the small compressor located in the electronics bay is running non-stop. Had to pull the inline fuse to stop it. Any ideas why it is running? Could be a slide seal leak but How do I determine that? Is it maybe just an issue with the switch on the compressor or some other issue with the compressor. Need help diagnosing.
Gerard,
Are you talking about the vacuum pump that "powers" the dash HVAC or the compressor?
If you aren't sure, pull off the hose and see if it is sucking or blowing.
And, if you can see the brand name of the pump that would also help.
Brett
It is definitely the compressor that airs up the slide seals and I think is used in the air leveling.
If it's running continually, there's a leak somewhere. Even with the pump running you would be able to hear a leak in the slide bladder standing near the slide, so that's easy to determine (and you'd probably still hear a bit of of noise as the system leaks down after you pulled the fuse). We heard it on our coach when our BR slide bladder failed and also on one of the consignment coaches at FOT one night (Steve pulled the fuse for them so the pump wouldn't burn up).
The "best" leak to have is the HWH solenoid valve. You wouldn't hear it leaking once you pulled the fuse because there's no pressure built up behind it. We've had ours leak probably 3-4 times, maybe more. Pain in the you-know-what.
Here's how to rebuild it (along with some good links to other discussions, like this one Front slide wouldn't retract (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=10476.msg49240#msg49240) ).
HWH Solenoid Valve Rebuild (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=10630.msg50321#msg50321)
Michelle
For what its worth, brothers air compressor pressure switch failed on his 06 Phenix, required a new pressure switch, got the exact same switch from Lowe's, installed it and no more issues.
This info might fit the problem.
AS usual FWIW
I had a similar problem on our '03 and it was the solenoid valve on the first drying bulb on the air pump intake. Normally it is open when there is no 12v applied (pump off) and closed when the pump is running. Mine stuck open and drained the house batteries while the coach was in storage. It should be easy to tell if this is the problem since air will be coming out of the fitting on the bottom of the bulb when the pump is running. I can send a picture of the valve if you like.
This is the response I got from James Triana:
There are air seal manifolds in the electronics bay area. These units exhaust air when the room key is on, each unit has a shut off valve. You can try turning them off one at a time and see if compressor shuts off. If this happens to stop the compressor, then turn the valves on one at a time to isolate which unit is causing the compressor to run. Also excess slope will cause the compressor to run.
I turned each manifold off and there is one that is leaking air in the on or off position. It appears to be leaking at or behind the knob that you use to turn it off or on. I tried tightening the nuts and they are all tight so it must be at the knob. Any thoughts on replacing this and if it must come from Foretravel?
I had to replace both of mine. I ordered them from HWH and the new one leaked.
I replaced them with a shut off valve from home depot
A common problem with the valves HWH supplies. Here's Barry's post about it.
Emergency '03 slide bladder repair (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=10319.msg48002#msg48002)
We replaced ours with 1/4" ball valves from either Home Depot or Lowes (look in the air tool section). Here's Steve's post about it (discovered during our slide bladder leak). Different post in the same thread as above.
Emergency '03 slide bladder repair (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=10319.msg48058#msg48058)
Michelle
So based upon Steve and Michelle and Barry's experience any 1/4 inch ball valve will work as opposed to getting replacement parts from HWH. Think I might replace all 4 of them and avoid a future problem.
That is a good decision 8)
Well all four shut off valves were changed with some low profile valves I located at a local parts house. No o-rings to fail in these. Once done I reinstalled the 5 amp fuse and I could hear the solenoid clicking but the compressor would not kick on. I took the plastic cover off and made sure that the spring activated switch was working and still nothing. I removed the silver outer part of the solenois valve and cleaned it and reinstalled and works like magic.