I am considering drilling an access hole into the floor of my coach near the driver side edge above the Propane bay and am looking for additional knowledge from those of you who may have answers PRIOR to my actually doing the drilling, and regretting it.
Previously a cabinet with a pull out lid existed immediately to the left of where I wish to put the new hole.
The coach has apparently been re-carpeted and the carpet was not changed under the desk/cabinet prior to its removal.
Therefore, when I examined the area I was able to pull up some of the at the point of the old/new splice.
It appears that alongside the wall, there is a covered wooden tunnel where at a minimum there is 110V Romex running for outlets along the passenger side wall.
It would appear that a wood strip is installed about 2" from the passenger side wall and (one would assume) a similar strip is attached AT the wall, leaving a space of unknown dimensions between the strips for wiring run through. There appears to be a wooden cover attached over it with screws (unable to remove due to length) to cover and protect the wiring.
Immediately inboard of this wooden tunnel, the floor level drops 7/8" to the actual main flooring. Carpet foam apparently fills this void under the carpet.
I am hoping that some of you have re-carpeted or re-floored a similar vehicle and can offer suggestions and confirmation of the above findings.
Is my assessment correct and it is a wiring tunnel?
It would seem that a hole drilled inboard of the tunnel into the main flooring would provide an access hole without causing wiring or piping damage. Comments?
Any other considerations other than the proper sealing of the access hole?
Regards,
Jon,
Sounds like you already know more about it than most of us. I found something similar a week ago when I removed a filing cabinet that a previous owner had installed in place of the lamp cabinet with pull out table. The carpet was cut under the cabinet, so I could pull up some of it. There was a 110 v cable and a phone cable coming up out of the box tunnel. There could be some 12v wiring in there for the door handle and orange side light. It might be possible with a small miter saw like this http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=hand+saws+hobby&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&oe=UTF-8&rlz=1I7GGIE_en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=3650674321595074529&ei=c0YaTd7mG8K78gb2idWmDg&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=12&ved=0CFYQ8wIwCw# (http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=hand+saws+hobby&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&oe=UTF-8&rlz=1I7GGIE_en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=3650674321595074529&ei=c0YaTd7mG8K78gb2idWmDg&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=12&ved=0CFYQ8wIwCw#) to make a couple of cuts in the cover and remove a section to see what is in there.
Jerry:
Thanks for the comments. Neat tool.
I decided to call Foretravel and ended up talking to Mark who confirmed that what I found is indeed a wiring trunk or trough used for anything they can snake down through it. I have decided not to look in there until I really have to do it. I will move my hole slightly inboard and should not have a problem. I hope............
Regards,
If I understood correctly, you can use a tool like the Rockwell Sonicrafter, http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_20?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=rockwell+sonicrafter&sprefix=rockwell+sonicrafter (http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_20?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=rockwell+sonicrafter&sprefix=rockwell+sonicrafter), or the Habor Freight equivalent, Oscillating Multifunction Power Tool - Multifunction Tools - Power Tools (http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/multifunction-tools/multifunction-power-tool-67256.html), to do a plunge cut in the cap board where you need to access any race/trench. You can then reattach the cap board with additional screws on each side of the cuts.
I have found the Sonicrafter one of my most valuable tools allowing me to make difficult repairs much easier. My son has the Harbor Freight version. He says it is not a powerful as the Rockwell but it still does a good job and costs about one third of the price.
Do you have the battery powered model or the 110V?