Yeah, I know that my M11 isn't a race motor, but when the perfectly fine looking 5 rib Alternator belt started squealing (before and after the alternator rebuild) I decided to order a replacement. The racing belt (K050345RB) cost 2.5 times more than the the stock belt ($31.00 - via Amazon). However they are supposed to have 3X the longevity, heat resistance, etc, etc.
Most importantly its a real pretty blue...
Gates Racing (http://www.gatesracing.com/belt.cfm)
And I have always liked the "Green" Gates belts. Is it time to redecorate??????????
Brett
Have always had great luck with the Gates belts, no luck with the Dayco belts at all.
:)
Do you guys replace belts at certain intervals or do you look for signs of wear?
The Cummins manual has clear descriptions of belt failure, including cross-belt cracks, belt fraying and rib separation. I just inspect every six months and don't replace on a regular basis. When installing a new belt you MUST use a belt tension gauge. Setting belt tension based on mid-point deflection is obsolete.
Amos,
Thank you. I did not know about a belt tension gauge.
The belt tension gauge that most often is mentioned in factory shop manuals is made by OTC, number 6673. You still need to by the factory's recommended tension as it is sometimes higher than the color coding on the gauge.
Some belts on some engines have manual tensioners.
Some belts on some engines have automatic belt tensioner. AND THEY DO FAIL. Here is a Gates video showing good/bad automatic belt tensioner: Failed versus a good belt tensioner. (http://www.gates.com/tensioner/tensioner_video.html)
And to throw in a curve, some of the automatic tensioners were installed (location on detent hole) makes the belt TOO TIGHT. I had to back off (drill a new detent hole) because I pulled the front seals out of two hydraulic fan pumps. Since "detensioning", have not had a failure in last 60,000 miles following the change.
Brett