I'm till working on getting my HWH slide mechanism to work. I've come across this plastic jar. What is it for? Should there be condensation inside?
After the compressor goes off that solenoid opens to bleed the line & empty the bowl.
When the compressor starts that solenoid closes.
ChecK Thread
Front slide wouldn't retract (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=10476.msg49252#msg49252)
When your air compressor is running, a by-product is water - how much depends on the outside humidity. This bowl is called a Water Separator and the water needs to be drained periodically. To make the draining process automatic, a solenoid valve is added to the bottom (the thing that got hot per a previous post of yours). The valve is "normally open" (the condition with no power applied to the solenoid). Down stream of the water separator there is a check valve that prevents air from back flowing out of your tanks and out this valve. When the compressor starts running, power to this solenoid is applied (closing the valve) so the compressor won't loose air through the valve. A side benefit of this system is the compressor starts with zero back pressure to allow it to get up to speed before generating a load. One add-on I did was add a 1/4" poly tube through the floor to drain the water outside of the coach. It not a lot of water but I still didn't like the carpet to get wet. Judging from you photo it looks like yours is outside of the bay so that's not an issue.
Yes, that's normal. But there should not be any measurable accumulation of water.
My coach has no slides, but uses a similar arrangement for the 12VDC pump for the leveling system. The pump was running without effect for a while. I found an accumulation of "white stuff" in the solenoid was keeping the valve from sealing. I pulled the solenoid apart and was able to clean the stuff off with RO water and a Q-Tip. The pump has worked fine since then.
I think Michelle reported that they had done a similar cleanup of the purge valve on their 12VDC compressor more than once.
John and Barry,
You answers have answered my question.
Thank you.
George
JD,
Is your compressor located between the propane and house batteries compartment accessible from the storage bay and behind the converter/inverter?
Yup! That's the unit. Your picture provides a better view than I had. That bay is a bit small for my massive (yeah, right!) shoulders to enter.
I extended the Joey bed and managed to get sufficient access to clean the valve without having to remove the compressor. I think I had a few sore spots and bruises. I was pleased that I figured out what was the problem and was able to fix it without help or parts. I checked for places where I thought air should enter or exit. It was exiting the purge valve while the compressor was running and therefore not building pressure in the leveling system. A cleaning of the valve fixed it right up.
J D,
Thank you for the input. My valve cannot be removed without some serious dis-assembly of parts including a spring loaded compressor mount. So, for me at least, a new part is essential. Should I remove the old valve, and a clean up does not work, then I need to order the part and wait even more time. Sometimes situations dictate a less conservative and more expensive approach.
But it is good to know that other options exist.
George Stoltz
Looks like once again you have been shafted by the PP engineering @ Foretravel.
From your picture it looks like you may have to loosen all the mount blots for the compressor.
Only an Agee engineer would have placed it between the rails after assy. Of course it was easiest for him at the time.
DING! DING! DING!
Bill, you are so right about what it will take to get to this part. There are any number of these stupid design problems. Too bad the person who designed it didn't ask the question: "How can this part easily be replaced?"
Argh - yes. That particular valve is Steve's nemesis. Replaced and/or cleaned multiple times.
HWH Solenoid Valve Rebuild (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=10630.msg50321#msg50321)
Michelle
Michelle,
How does Steve handle disconnecting and then re-connecting the wires? Butt splices or something else?