"For the Roadmaster owner...what do you use to lube the "dang" locking pins that always jam up when trying to unhook. Sometimes I need to take out the hammer to get them to unlock even after I've done all I can to relieve the tension on the bars."
>Peter ... We carried a mallet in the toad for the pins until I sprayed the bejeebers out of them with CorrosionX. TaDaaa!!! Now they are as easy as pie. That is the greatest stuff ever invented.
I still use silicone, wipe and repeat on the tension bars prior to collapsing and storing everything.
Carol,
I'll have to try the CorrosionX. I was told to only use silicone lube, for which I don't understand the rationale. The problem is always being able to release the tension at the bars so the pins can slide. This is not always easy as there are slopes to contend with in a lot of cases.
I use Brake Kleen to remove all the road film, then lube with silicone
Aside from proper lubrication, here's a trick to help relieve the load on the towbar:
It seems the most difficult when you stop in the middle of a turn to unhook: When this happens one side of the towbar is in tension while the other is in compression - meaning the car needs to move side to side to relieve the pressure. Start the car and turn the steering wheel back and forth from stop to stop. As the wheels twist on the ground it allows the car to "walk" sideways. I can't say it works 100% of the time, but it does always seem to help.
An alternate method is to have a second person push sideways on the front of the car while you are trying to release the levers. I haven't actually tried this but it just occurred to me and seems like it should work.
I think the reason for that rationale is that the lube should be dry lube, preferably dry silicone. Dry silicone does not attract dirty, grimey, sandy, particales which would tend to wear parts out.
John,
I agree 110%. I try to anticipate the unhooking process before I get into a situation that causes these tensioning factors you mention.
My nemesis is when I get home to unload/wash, etc. before taking the coach to storage. I don't have a level spot to stop to unhook, so Beth gets in the car and helps by following my crazy hand signals to put the car in reverse to relieve the pressure, then neutral when she goes too far in reverse, etc., etc...we go through this cycle several times while the neighbors watch and laugh at us... >:(
It provides a little comic relief once in a while... :))
Not sure this would work on a Foretravel, but it did on a Class C. If the Foretravel is on level ground, put it in neutral and back the tow (and Foretravel) up (slow and carefully!)
best, paul
With my Roadmaster Sterling, I have Anne start the toad, put in in first gear, and inch it forward while I pull both levers. It takes only a little bit of movement. I've never used any force on the pins, and I never lube anything but the bars themselves with dry silicone.
Best solution is to get rid of the Roadmaster and get a Blue Ox, all your problems seem to disappear immediately.
Why I use the Blue Ox on the pickup, but too bull headed to change the Honda Element that is rarely towed, It always brings out the ugly side of me for a little when unhooking. ;D
Really can't disagree with Dave. I have the Blue Ox Aventa™ LX, a bit overkill for my little Ford Focus, as it is rated at 10,000 lbs., and am very happy with it. No problems hooking or unhooking.
I do not remember having problems with my Roadmaster Blackhawk All Terrain 10,000 lb bar except that one time I released the bar when my truck was on a slight downward slope toward the coach. The truck rolled into the towbar bracket on the coach and bent the cross bar. I was able to use a large limb to straighten things out enough to continue our trip. If I take the truck again, (it weighs 7,00 lbs.) I WILL block the wheels when disconnecting.
I use RoadMaster Falcon All Terrain 10,000 #
For loosening the tow bar brackets - In being the chief hat wearer of our domain and Jim not being able to help with tasks. I've found a sweet simple method and never have to get out that mallet anymore:
I tow a 2500HD pick up - I simply start truck, put in drive and slowly let off the brake allowing truck to slightly roll forward just a touch. Put in park then go to the tow bar and raise the release handles on tow bar. The brackets are then loose and life is happy.
It is best to park on as level and straight area to hook/unhook tow - also never stand between the tow bar arms but always to the outside of them when setting up tow or taking down.
Lubing - I spray the brackets, locks, pins, bars, etc with dry silicone wipe off all dirt then respray at start of each trip - any place there will be friction of parts - upon arrival at destination I spray/wipe tow bar arms before storing - - when I have my annual inspection am always told my tow equipment is in excellent operation condition - Makes me :D with delight - been towing since '05