I was wondering about the air compressor on the HWH leveling, When I was working on the bulkhead repair I ask if I can raise the air bags with the air compressor to put safety bars in . I tried to do this with the key on and off and it didn't raise the coach at all. I noticed that the air gauge got higher, but the air bags didn't . Thanks Art
The 12v air compressor is really just for make-up air to compensate for slow leak down after the coach is leveled. It would take quite a long time to raise the rig with that compressor. Starting the engine and using the engine compressor to raise the rig is really the only practical way.
At fast idle.
I have a chuck on my coach that I can use to back fill the air tanks and use that to raise the coach.
John,
Do you dry the air you introduce into the air systems on the coach?
I built a male to male adapter that enables introducing pressure into the air system via the connector in the propane bay. It worked with the portable electric compressor that I use for small tasks. However, I saw a small cloud of moisture develop when I pull the hose from the connector. I am concerned about introducing excess moisture into the air system, so am inclined to use an "outside" compressor only if there is not another reasonable option. My portable compressor has a very small tank and is not likely to drop moisture from the compress air before it goes through the hose.
I have a water separator on my air line and it is before the automatic oiler. I have not had any issues with moisture though. I do not do it often but FT in Kodak showed me how to do it that way.
John: Where did you put the air chuck? Could you put it before the dryer?
Thanks Art
Mine is plumbed in the fuel compartment and is in front of the air dryer.
Hmm. In our 1997 U295, our "convenience" air connection is in the propane/fuel bay on the passenger side near the front of the coach. I assumed it was after the air dryer so that air introduced at that point could introduce moisture into the air system. Is it likely that our connection is on the "wet" side of the air system rather than the "dry" side. I could try to trace the lines, but it is easier to ask you. ;)
In the ideal setup, you would plumb the new aux air inlet between the air dryer and the air compressor, that way any air will go through the air dryer. Pumping outside air into the system after the dryer, leaves you wide open for water/ice in winter, all not good.
FWIW
Dave,
The air dryer is integrated with governor & engine compressor to control maximum air pressure and to purge air dryer of excess moisture and oil.
When using outside air compressor supply directly into the air dryer, there would not be a good way to control pressures and there would not be any purge cycles.
Could there be air dryer problems without the purge cycles?
Thanks,
Barry & Cindy
1997 Foretravel U270 36'
Foretraveler@gmail.com
Barry, Good point, I made the mistake of assuming one did not have a permanent connection, just one for airing up the system for a short duration, assuming your aux air supply is not full of water. In my shop, when I connect up the the shop air, I use a regulator in line to limit pressure to 110 psi and have the built in dryer on the shop system.
Sorry for my assuming this would not be a permanent connection that would require the air dryer to cycle due to long term / high volume of air being used.
I keep forgetting most folks do not have the equipment setup for such toys nor understand the small points and requirements.
Good luck
This thread seems to have degenerated into "Much Ado About Nothing". Sure if you fill the air tanks from an outside air compressor a little bit of moisture may get in, but unless it is freezing cold, it will probably do no harm. As soon as you start driving and apply the brakes a few times that air will be gone. If you are really worried about it you could drain the tanks and let the engine compressor refill them through the air dryer, or just open the drains and see if any water comes out. The air dryer is there mainly to prevent brake problems (failure) in freezing weather.
I sometimes use an air compressor at the house to air up the coach, so that I don't have to start the engine or wait so long for pressure to build. I replaced the tire chuck on the air hose with a female connector and put a male connector on the tire chuck, so I can still use it for inflating tires. The hose from the house also has a female connector, so I screwed 2 male connectors together for an adapter to connect the 2 hoses. Open the coach air hose valve and the tanks fill; simple and I have had no problems. However, if I was in freezing weather, I would pay a little more attention to draining the tanks, and if nothing including air came out I might think about applying heat to the tank as ice may be in the bottom of the tank. Of course if one drains the tank at the end of the driving period as recommended, no water will be sitting in the tank to freeze. And if an abnormal amount of water does come out after normal driving, the air dryer probably needs servicing. A little bit of water can be expected, although if the air dryer is in good condition, no water may come out. Everyone does know how to drain the wet tank, right.
Our coach has a "blow off valve" adjacent to the duals on the drivers side. But I don't think this pertains to the "wet tank". If not, I don't believe I do know how to drain the wet tank properly. I will appreciate the proper procedures. Thank you.
If you mean the "Air Drain valve" next to the duals on drivers side, That is how you drain moisture from the wet tank. Turn it and let some air out and see if any moisture comes out.
I believe that is the drain valve I am talking about. Our coach has a label on the bottom fiberglass panel to identify the location of the valve. I wasn't sure if that was the valve to drain moisture from the wet tank or not.
The first time I opened that valve, I got a very, very slight amount of moisture and a very, very slight oily spray out. Since then I only get air. Based on this, I presume the "wet tank" does not have any moisture build up in it. Is this correct?
Thank you very much.
Morris
Morris, you are doing it correctly and yes it sounds like there is no build up or problem. The 2 brake supply tanks near the front axle also have a drain with the valve on the tank, unless someone has moved the valve to a remote location as at the wet tank. The front tanks are less likely to have moisture accumulation than the wet tank and probably no reason to drain them except maybe when the chassis is greased or there is some other reason to crawl under the coach.
Dear John Sichenze
Can you tell me about your automatic air oilier.
Is this something you added or FT or HWH. As fare as I know, I do not have one on my 2004 42' 320
Thanks Karl
It is not on the FT but I have it plumbed into my shop air line so I do not have to worry about oiling my tools. It works pretty well but I also have a line that has no oil in it too. So, double the lines and the fun. You just have to remember what line is what so I color code the attachment end....