Not getting any water through the city water system. Have replaced the city water intake valve and the pressure regulator after that. Nothing but a trickle. But it will drain real good thru the front drain. Nothing at the shower, nothing but a trickle in bathroom sink and toilet and just a trickle out of the kitchen sink? Anybody know what I am missing?
Isn't there a check valve somewhere down near the pump plumbing so when the pump kicks on it shuts off the city water? Maybe it is stuck? Not really sure about any of this. Just a guess.
Sounds like your tank fill valve is stuck open. That happened to me this past summer.
Steve,
Replaced everything between city inlet and the plastic. Will look further tomorrow.
John,
Mine are manual ball valves.
Okay, this is weird. In kitchen, the spray part of facet works good. Same facet just a tricket on normal. DW says sand in water when sprayed. I replaced the kitchen facet head with a generic one from Lowes. It is just like the the old facet head. Everything worked before that, except the old facet head would not spray. Still does not make sense.
One other thing I just discovered - That Audit says my GRAY water tank is full. Everything else is empty and that is how we started out. It was freezing when we left so I filled nothing. Carried gallons of water for water usage No way inless the street water is going directly into it.
Thinking about this, I have never used the city water system before. Have always filled the fresh water tank and ran the pump, as we have never had city water available. This really has me wondering what the past history is that I do not know about. Right now I am thinking somebody has messed with the plumbing!
With the age of your coach it seems there is/are valve(s) stuck open/closed - the likeliness of someone messing with plumbing is nil.
Have you cleaned the filter on the water pump - check the fresh fill tank switch it could be stuck open and needs replacing -
Sediment is very damaging and does build up and it does not matter whether water is hard or soft, there is "sand" which will build up as well as calcium in the lines -
I use a portable water softener after a carbon filter followed by a 5 micron and a 30 micron filters - water is sparkling - less sediment better -
White vinegar undiluted is excellent for sediment
Good Luck
All the valves are manual, quarter turn, ball valves. No fresh fill tank switch to deal with. You just turn a quarter turn ball valve to fill the tank. Just beyond the tank valve is the drain valve. Water comes out of it full force like there is no restriction.
We have been sight seeing so I have not had much time to mess with it. Am about ready to call a mobile service and see what he thinks. But first I am going to pull all the aerators off to see what they look like.
Sounds like you've generally zeroed in on the area - is it possible to use a thin wire to see if there is blockage in this section?
Remember not every "RV" repairer is capable - just calling a "repair" person is the most frightening thing I could think of IMHO
Hopefully it is simple and not an arm n leg - hang in there and enjoy your sight-seeing :)
Another thing to check, if you have one, is the water filter. Friends house had low water pressure that was diagnosed by a plumber - a $250 plumber - as build up in the pipes. Quick look in crawl space found a barely open shut-off and a totally gunged up whole house water filter. If the unit has sat for quite a while and not used all sorts of things can grow on it.
Keith
Pat, did you open the ball valve under the bath room sink, I think it is located at the floor.
Maybe the aerators are just clogged with sand. I've have this happened and it cloggs them pretty good.
Source of "sand" is acutually hot water heater crud.
Try the tub...no aerator there.
We have ... on occasion ... put the pressure reducer on backwards when hooking up. That very effectively stops the flow of water into the coach!! Just a thought.
JohnFitz won the prize!!! The facet aerators were clogged with hot water heater tank crud. Have every thing cleaned up and water is running great everywhere except the toilet. I take it that I have to take off that back valve??? and clean it out? It is a Traveler by Sealand.
Oh, Carol. One thing I found out. My pressure reducer is built in. Don't need the one I have been attaching to the outside stand pipe right along.
The water hose at the back of the Sealand toilet likely will not hold debris. It is more of reverse flow preventer and has large open water flow. I hope the toilet's under bowl rim holes do not get clogged
I would think that the water valve that is rotated open by pressing the foot pedal would be the likely place to collect debris. May only have to remove water hose to expose an input screen filter.
This valve can be taken off by removing a couple screws that hold the pedal and water valve. There are a couple of screws with protected heads that should not be opened as it will release the pedal return spring.
We drain our propane hot water heater every few months to drain out white lime debris that can clog hot water faucets.
We always fill our fresh water tank through two large-size charcoal water filters to keep sand and other debris out, which can clog hot and cold water fixtures.
We also use city water hose only to fill our fresh water tank, and then we disconnect the hose and use our water pump for all water pressure needs.
Barry,
What is the advantage to doing this? We do the filter part, but only occasionally run the pump. Do you follow that routine to keep fresher water in your tank?
We follow a similar pattern to Barry and Cindy. 90% of the time we fill the tank and run the pump, particularly when we are on a chlorinated water system. That way it would be very difficult for nasty bacteria to grow in the water tank. Also, we don't have to worry about messing with the hose at every stop and we can make sure we don't have to put up with stinky water.
We always use the house pump for our water supply.
We use a whole house RO system, which requires filling the tank and using water from the fresh water tank using the pump. Benefits include great drinking water from any faucet, no scale anywhere, no water spots, removal by filtration of most harmful agents, no "sand" from hot water tank, no plugged fixtures due to junk in the water system, and automatic filling to capacity using a float switch. Problems include very slow fill, requirement to dispose of waste water while filling, requirement to always run from the fresh water tank using a relatively noisy pump, and less lather from soap compared to softened water.
I normally introduce chlorine to the fresh water tank a couple of times a year to disinfect the plumbing in the house. I have added a heated supply hose in order to fill in freezing weather.