When we had our 3rd sewer valve installed last autumn, it worked very easily. Of late it has been extremely difficult to open. But once we open it the handle slides in and out as though it were new. So tomorrow I plan to take it apart, clean and lubricate it.
My question is: what should I lubricate it with? Is petroleum jelly okay or is there something better I should use?
George, Have ou ever considered using the electric 12 Volt DC valves, they work great for us old dudes :)
Hi Dave,
You are the first person I've heard say anything positive about electric dump valves. I'd like to see if I can make this one work before swapping it out.
George, they do work great, by chance do you recall the incident in Chicago when the Dave Mathews band coach was going over a metal bridge, they type you can see through, and they hit the dump button, and did a number on the tour boat going under the bridge at the same time ?? Since that group is out of my area, it hit the papers here too. Big mess is a nice way to describe it, but the truth is the electric valves do work :o :o
Yes. I lived in the greater Chicagoland area at that time and I have crossed that bridge in a 4-wheeler many a time.
My question is: what should I lubricate it with? Is petroleum jelly okay or is there something better I should use?
Petroleum jelly is frequently recommended for these valves. I have heard others say that silicone spray works even better and doesn't attract dirt. I have used both and but haven't used the silicone long enough to know if there is much difference in performance but it is easier to apply.
Thetford has a valve lubricant available. Think is is made of coconut oil. Another idea that I've read about is that you can install a Zerk (grease fitting) on each valve near the upper corner (handle end of the valve). Grease it up with petroleum jelly using one of those small hand-operated grease guns A small amount of jelly will come out when you open the valve. It can be wiped off with a rag.
Ours was really stiff until I sprayed the bejeebers out of it with CorrosionX. don't know how long the lubrication will last, but it is still easy 2 dumps later. I think CorrosionX is the best thing ever. I use it for almost everything except a dessert topping.
Great idea. I should be able to get Corrosion X on the blade without taking it apart. Oh, and by the way, I know of at least two "old-timers" who put Corrosion X in their coffee. So go ahead and try it on your next bowl of Jello. Be sue to let me know how it tastes.
Interesting issue George. I put my first third valve on in 2002 and on each coach since then. Never had one bind up. This one has been on three years. Might put some lube on next time just in case.
Carol,
I implemented your solution this morning. I did remove the housing for the valve and sprayed a lot of Corrosion X into every possible gap and worked the handle in and out until it moved like a hot knife through soft butter. Aside from being a little hard to access the nuts and bolts on the bottom, this was a pretty easy task. On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the toughest, I'd rate this a 2.
Thank you so much for your suggestion. I just did not think of it for this application. I have Corrosion X in a hand pump plastic bottle and a pressurized can. I will never go without this product.
You are my new hero.
George....where did you buy Corrosion X?
I know of two places where is it sold:
MOT and Channel RV Supply in Houston. I have heard that some of the big box sporting goods store also carry it. I believe one of them is named Academy Sports.
Rudy L: where else??
I guess I am one from the old school but I don't like using any petroleum related product on natural or neoprene rubber. I have found the best product for O rings and seals is the silicone grease lubricant sold at swimming pool supply stores specifically made for lubing O rings. I keep a couple of tubes on board at all times. I can find no where on their web site that using Corrosion X is recommended for rubber and it does contain petroleum distillates and hydrocarbon oil. FWIW
I bought some Corrosion X in aerosol cans at Academy Sports and Outdoor store in Houston. It was located in the area with fishing, hunting, and gun stuff.
Kent,
I am also of the old school, but trying to move that stuck valve was really difficult. Using Corrosion X was the lesser of two evils. If Corrosion X eats through the rubber seals, I will just have to buy a new one and start over. Anytime I can install a $25 part using my labor on a Foretravel I feel like I am saving money. Now, having said that I realize that it is important to share this kind of information and I am glad you did. It is valuable to many others who might put Corrosion X where it does not belong. I will certainly heed your advice for future applications. Thank you.
Xtreme Paint & Graphics also carries Corrosion X.
Eric
Well, if we all wind up having trouble from using CorrosionX on the dump valves, we can get a bulk price and share them out. Time will tell!
The best thing I have found for water valve's and seal's is stem seal grease from your local plumbing supply house.
Fisheries Supply in Seattle also carries Corrosion X....
Fisheries - Product Detail (http://www.fisheriessupply.com/productgroupdetail.aspx?cid=134198&keywords=CorrosionX)
16oz spray or aerosol is $11.86 my cost.
Can't do without it..
Cheers
Ted
Some True Value hardware stores carry it.
Here is a link to Corrosion X web site with a list of distributors.
Also you can order it on-line.
CorrosionX / RejeX National Distributors (http://www.corrosionx.com/distmarine.htm)
Good stuff.
Keith
I also will not use petroleum products on the dump valves.
I drilled small holes in the top beside the dump valve and installed small screws with "o" rings to seal. An animal hypodermic with olive oil or peanut oil is used to inject oil about three times a year.
I am sure that Corrosion-X would last longer, but.....
The best lubricant for rubber is soap. Once a year I split a bottle of Dawn between the two tanks, let that brew until my first dump station visit. We also use extra soap to wash dishes & bathe, & for the black tank, we just add some dawn between trips to the dump station. I've never had a problem in many years, and the valves operate like Goerge said, a hot knife through soft butter... ;D
I also add a bit of Dawn and water to black and grey tanks immediately after draining the tanks. It seems like our valves have been getting a bit easier to operate than they were when we bought the coach about a year ago.
I recently added the third valve and a Polychute drain hose. Since doing that, I started using grey water to back flush the black water tank. The clear portion of the Polychute gives a view of the color and texture of the material flowing through the hose. The back flushing appears to clean up the effluent from the black tank. It may be strictly dilution, but I figure it doesn't hurt and might help to perform a bit of back flushing.
My procedure is:
Tilt the coach so passenger side is high. Stay level front to rear.
Secure the PolyChute to the output of the third valve. Be sure to open to valve at the "far" end of the Polychute. That step is easy to overlook. (experience)
Open #3
Open Black to dump the black tank
Close #3
Open grey to allow grey water to flow to black tank
When flow has ceased, close grey
Open #3 to dump black tank again
Close #3
Open grey to allow grey water to flow to black tank again
When flow has ceased, close grey
Open #3 to dump black tank again
After 2 or 3 back flushes of the black tank, leave everything open long enough drain well. If you started with a full grey tank, you should still have enough water to provide a cleansing flow from the grey tank.
Close everything, clean up, and then put Dawn and water in the tanks to help clean and lubricate the valves.
We also use Dawn regularly, and I add a bit to the tanks to dissolve grease residue once in a while. What works wonderfully, is to add about a cup full of any cheap vegetable oil to the tanks after dumping. Give it a minute to hit the low point, and then work the valves back and forth to oil them. Then let it do the same thing to the third valve, I guess. Our last coach did not have the third valve, but we used the oil to good effect on the other two for several years. When I recently used the CorrosionX on my third valve, I did not disassemble it, merely sprayed the handle to see what would happen and it eased the action considerably. A little bit apparently goes a long way. We will see how long it makes life easier. We do back flush the black tank with the grey water two or three times and have a clear bit on the drain to inspect for residue when we use the tank sprayers. Fascinating viewing!!
I like this suggestion, easy to do and inexpensive. Is that Dawn dish soap?
Wyatt,
Dawn is a brand of liquid dish detergent. It is even used to remove wax from the fiberglass.