Today I replaced some parts on our rear ladder. One of the foot pads that anchors the ladder to the roof had developed a corrosion induced crack. I noticed this months ago and I bought a new foot pad, some plastic end pieces and new bolts that go into the stand offs when I was at FOT last month. I couldn't make the repairs until I had another ladder and that was solved at Tennessee RV a few weeks ago where we bought one of Camping World's telescoping ladders (excellent!).
Anyway, the ladder repair went fine, but I wanted to warn everyone that I found that 25% of the anchoring screws the hold the foot pads to the coach were stripped on my ladder (i.e., they could not be tightened when I reinserted them). I would think this could be a dangerous situation. Thankfully there is an excellent hardware store close to the RV park (NC State Fair Grounds) here in Raleigh and I was able to replace the #12 screws with #14 which did the trick. I also replaced the small screws through the foot pads into the standoffs, which were corroded and frequently loose, with new screws and lock washers.
I also believe that the ladder is only rated at 150 pounds too. I never use that rear ladder but carry one for the times I need to get up high and it works well to clean the front window...
The ladder has been permanently removed from our coach. We don't miss it ... we carry a ladder for the times we need to see the roof or give it attention. The original one seemed more for decoration, and as John says, is only rated for about 150 lbs. If you ever watch someone going up or down, and see the way the ladder "moves", you lose all eagerness to actually climb on one.
I worry about how strong that rear ladder is because I discovered on both of my previous two motorhomes that when I started removing screws just to check how secure it was, "it was not". I removed, rebuilt, and remounted both of them. I am considering just removing the ladder but need material to patch the holes and have not been able to purchase white gel-coat in California. I have GOOP two-part supermend epoxy paste, which I am using to repair cargo doors which have torn off the hinges. This supermend appears to color match the gel-coat on my 1996 320. I will check the color match when I return to California next week because the supermend will be well cured by then.
What do others use to repair gel-coat damage without painting?
For those who like their ladder but just wish it were stronger, here's what I did about 5 years ago:
1. Replaced the OEM bases with marine stainless ones. These are wider, deeper and very strong. I didn't think they make that much difference but I was amazed. The extra depth (meaning the tube inserts farther) adds rotational stiffness that makes the ladder feel stiff when climbing. Each mount is about $30-40 each. I'd like to change the tubing to stainless as well but it works so well now it's out of my mind. In case your wondering if I'm just a light weight, I'm about 210 lbs. The only thing I would do different is add a drain hole on the upward pointing mounts so they don't hold water where the tube inserts.
2. Added stainless screws under each side of each step to act as a backup to the OEM step screw. I replaced the steps with new plastic ends but the plastic split again in short order.
John... great ideas! Wish I had known this before I started my ladder rebuild. I may put those screws under each step. Even with the stock base fixtures, the ladder seems a lot more sturdy. But I am still very slow and deliberate climbing it.
John,
I like the idea of adding the screw shown in the 3rd photo. Can you suggest a screw size and length? Seems like an easy and worthwhile enhancement. Thanks.
I have the stainless steel 'pound in' internal catch nuts for those that need them. The lower ones rust out.
Thanks for the "heads-up" and I appreciate the tip about marine fittings also. Haven't checked ladder yet, but on shake-down cruise, i.e., returning to WA from purchase outside Dallas last year, our GPS routed us down a byway, despite my efforts to stay on main arteries. Anyway, we came to a 12"-6" Underpass around midnight out in the boonies. Not having read and verified all the documentation provided, I wasn't sure if the coach height listed included the A/C's etc on the roof. Since I also exceed the ladder carrying capacity, my wife who is an athletic trooper offered to climb on the roof and hold the dumb end of a tape over the side so we could check. No problem. Worked fine - UNTIL she forgot how she got from the ladder onto the roof and couldn't figue out how to reverse the process. :-( Twenty minutes later, I was telling her to jump and I would catch her. Yeah, right. Luckily, she didn't believe me and figured out how to reverse her legs to swing off roof onto ladder. BUT, I was told, then and there, NEVER AGAIN was she getting on the roof. So, I will have to Beef up the ladder. Thanks for tips.
I replaced my ladder on my U-225 with a OEM stock ladder from Foretravel parts last year. I was very surprised how much sturdier it was compared to the 1993 version. After reading John's post, I plan to convert my ladder basses on my 93, U-300 to the SS Marine type. I weigh in at around 240 and use the ladder all of the time to wash the roof.
Of course I trust I will not have to scrub the roof nearly as often since I now have the Xtreme roof paint.
I used #8 panhead sheetmetal screws, length is 3/8", stainless
I drilled 1/8" pilot holes. The only trick is to locate the hole the proper distance away from the step so the head will support it.
I recommend measuring and center punching or making a quick drill jig from the piece of metal or wood with the pre-drilled hole at the right distance.