When I opened the freezer door on my 20 year old refrigerator I was nearly knocked down by the smell of ammonia. The creamery where I worked in high school had signs that said something like "IF YOU SMELL AMMONIA, RUN OUT OF THE BUILDING YELLING: AMMONIA, AMMONIA, AMMONIA.
I closed the doors, ventilated the coach and ran away yelling "AMMONIA, AMMONIA, AMMONIA". The cows were not impressed.
Now I need a new refrigerator. This is the best RV forum with the best commentators and the best information. I need your help. What type and what brand refrigerator do I need. Any suggestions will be appreciated. The old one is a Dometic. I have checked prices in Dallas and even though the cost is more than I paid for my first nearly new car, I am willing to bite the bullet. I do want to be as informed as I can.
Thanks for you help.
Here is a Dometic Replacement Chart.
Look up your existing model & see what model will replace it.
I put a Norcold in my U300 and love it. You have to spend a day and a half removing the shelf in the back and installing a better floor. You should check for dry rot around the outside access door. I also lined the compartment with Hardie Backerboard to cut the fire hazard. EZ entry wooden rail removal and then the fridge R&Rs in a couple of minutes each way with a couple of people. Fotos of the compartment prep are at: https://picasaweb.google.com/epiercestewart/U300Modifications# Call or write for more info if you need it.
Pierce & Gaylie
93' U300/36
Forgot to say in the post that Norcold is made in the USA. Check online for models with recalls before buying. A little harder to shut off the gasket heaters and defrost on a Norcold if you dry camp for extended periods and want to conserve electricity. All new fridges use electricity even when on propane in fact they won't run without juice connection.
Pierce
Alan,
You can get an Amish cooling unit to replace the failed one and get really thick long lasting piping in the process. Much superior to Dometic pipe thickness. I think the cost is in the $750 range.
I replaced my Refrigerator with a Residential one and no longer have the need for a fire extinguisher in the reefer compartment, have really cold ice cream and quick cool down in the refrigerator part. I paid $350 for the unit and $300 to have it installed and fitted into the space the Dometic occupied. There was an socket tied to the inverter to run it when I am not plugged in already there courtesy of the original build by Foretravel.
Hope this helps you. All the best in making your choice.
We removed our 24" x 60" Norcold and installed a Lowe's Whirpool $350 ET0MSRXT electric self defrost refrigerator of the same size.
New fridge has about 54% larger freezer, 22% larger refrig with an overall increase of about 29%.
Electric refrigerator draws 0.3 amps of 120-volt current each hour.
Barry,
I don't suppose you have any photos do you? Also, how did you remove the old unit and how did you bring the new refrigerator into the motorhome. Inquiring minds want to know.
Which way did they bring the reefer in, Rudy? Did you have someone local do the work, or get it done in Nac? I would love to see some pics!
Dave,
I choose the same Refrigerator as did Barry & Cindy at Lowe's. That unit will come in through the 24 inch front door that my 1995 U320 has. Plus it is counter depth for my cabinets.
I have a local mobile RV repair service here for the work. He has installed this unit many times in RVs with failed refrigerators.
The Dometic was real heavy but with a simple hand truck and a small amount of assistance from me, the Dometice was eased out of the hole, lowered to the floor, down the isle and down the steps. Both units doors were off for the move to make them narrow enough to fit the front door.
Our Dometic was the side by side while the new one is top freezer which Carolyn likes a whole lot better.
I'd love to see a picture of the mods to see the difference - since I know you gain space... I've been wanting to do this one for a LONG time.
Would you say its a one day job? I could talk the wife into a trip to Houston for this one!
We took out our curb side window near our Ekornes Stressless chair and a fork lift was used to insert the new electric and later remove the old propane refrigerator. Fridge cabinet had to be made 3/4" wider which was not a major job. We put a 24" x 24" piece of painted steel on the cabinet floor for reinforcement. We bolted 1/4" x 2" aluminum flat metal 'skids' on the bottom outer sides of new fridge and will fasten the tail end of the skids to the cabinet floor to keep fridge in place. We kept both side and top fridge vents, now with 1/8" hardware cloth to keep out critters. We have full access to rear of fridge to fasten it down, etc from side fridge vent. We made a removable steel bracket to keep doors closed while driving. We plan to recover the large space taken by the inside bulb with relocated 120-volt lights. For dry camping we will temporarily disable the frost-free heating element. We took over a week testing new fridge, switching hinges, sealing & improving the Styrofoam insulation on 3 sides of wood cabinet, routing off 3/4", designing bottom supports, running an inverter outlet. We used heavy cardboard to protect wood wall next to fridge when removing & inserting refrigerators.
Dave,
It is a one day job if you have the refrigerator and the board to cover the opening remaining after the new one is in place.
We have Lowes here but had to wait 3 days for my unit to arrive as the only one in stock was for show. The walnut boards are here at a hardwoods store and can be bought anytime. Getting on Lee's schedule is the last part and you would want to set this up ahead of time as he is not available on a moments notice.
Pictures of refrigerator are at Lowes.com (look for the model number mentioned by Barry & Cindy) and looks the same as you current installation with a plank on one side of the unit to cover the remaining space.
If you pursue this, I have several places to park you during the install with 50 amp power to plug into.
Speaking of refrigerator replacement, has anyone replaced a Dometic NDR 1492? Barry's table shows the replacement model markedly different in size, enough so that there is NO WAY that it can fit the space available. I understand that Dometic has nothing else that will fit. This is the unit in my current coach and fortunately it is behaving.
Dometic replacement chart with sizes
http://www.dometic.com/c17faeab-a5a2-436b-a032-b28317a7cff0.fodoc (http://www.dometic.com/c17faeab-a5a2-436b-a032-b28317a7cff0.fodoc)
Horace,
There is no replacement that will fit those dimensions.
It is a nightmare to redo.
See my previous post.
I saw a 2003 that had it done under warranty.
It looked like a very expensive proposition since the refer vent would have to be lowered.
Dometic RM4804 (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=7966.msg34910#msg34910)
Thanks to everyone for your input. I just ordered a new Dometic from Holiday World in Dallas (or Mesquite). The replacement chart verified the new model.
Thanks again.
Alan Dodson
Rudy,
What did you do about the possibility that rain could get in as low as the base of the refrigerator / top of storage area under Dometic?
best, paul
Paul,
We did not change anything about the coach other than trim the opening to fit the new refrigerator. The roof cap and the access door on the outside are still the same. No rain problem before or after the change for me. We had have over a foot of rain since the change and no leaks.
i just installed a new domectic sidewise . had to do a little capentry work and take out the window on the drivers , but not to hard a job. it is 12.5 cubic ft. with water and ice in door. ppl has them on sale
jim brady
98 u295 40ft