I have been getting my new-to-me 2004 Acura MDX ready for towing this summer. I read on the old (apparently not very active lately) MDXers board that many were complaining about dead batteries at the end of the day. There were conflicting comments regarding disconnecting the battery (or damages caused by that action), pulling the #9 fuse (or that defeating the power to the supplemental braking system), etc. in order to stop the discharge caused by leaving the key in the #1 position (to free the steering).
I'm aware of the time/speed/distance limitations and the transmission shifting (just like my old CR-V), but I don't recall ever having a battery issue with that car and I didn't have to pull any fuses.
Is anyone here towing an MDX and can you shed any light on what the best solution to this is?...or if there actually is a problem?
Thanks!
Yes there is a drain on the battery that I experienced anytime I drove a long day or two without disconnecting.
Acura would not admit to it.
I talked to many people with the same issue including Lyle reed.
It appears to be on the cars that have the built in navigation.
I tried pulling the fuse but then you have to reenter the nav & radio codes everytime you put it back in.
I installed the trik l charge & it resolved the problem.
Thanks, Barry. My MDX has the RES but not the Navi. Maybe I'll be safe?
I also have a Trik-l-charge on the coach...but how do you connect that to serve the MDX?
oops, I meant "Toad Charge" TOAD-CHARGE Dinghy Vehicle Battery Charger/Maintainer (http://www.lslproducts.com/ToadChargePage.html)
Brad,
I tow a 08 Honda CRV without Nav and use a 1.5 watt solar charger placed on my dash. I know if it is raining I do not get a charge, but I usually do not drive in the rain. I have used it for the last year and a half without a dead battery in the CRV. This is not as good as the toad charge, but very easy installation and less than $20.
1.5 Watt Solar Battery Charger (http://www.harborfreight.com/15-watt-solar-battery-charger-44768.html)
Thanks,
When I replaced the OEM battery in the 2004 Element last month, I purchased an Optima Yellow Top which is both a starting & deep cycle battery. The original battery was still going strong, but I don't like to push my luck after 7 years of great service while being towed.
Hmmm. Thanks everyone for the ideas. It looks like I have a few choices...if I actually even have the problem with my non-Navi MDX. After looking at the 10 amp Toad-Charge, I am thinking that an alternative could be that I add a switch to send my existing Trik-L-Start (5 amps) output to the toad when towing (certainly don't need the Trik-L-Start while the motor is on) to maintain its battery. If I forget to flip the switch back upon parking, I could always use the boost switch to get the motorhome started.
It would seem I would just need to add the SPDT switch and run a single wire from the Trik-L-Start to the MDX (grounds are already tied together), include a 10 amp circuit breaker (in case of a short in the wire), and I'd essentially be duplicating the Toad-Charge at the 5 amp level. Anyone see any problem with that idea?
Welcome back, Brad.
Here's another alternative, similar concept, created with help from this group a couple of years ago.
I'm running 10 guage automotive wire (with a 30amp self-reseting fuse inline) from FT isolator, through hitch (with a couple of insulated connectors) to Honda battery, with a Roadmaster diode inline just ahead of the Honda battery. Whenever FT is running, Honda battery is being charged, and car is always ready to drive. When Honda is disconnected, the wire from FT is still hot, so I do need to cover end with tape. But no fuse to pull, and no problems associated with disconnecting car battery while towing. No problems of any kind, so far.
Bob Mulder
Just a thought: The ignition key has to be on so the steering wheel is unlocked. This causes battery drawdown. Would it be that difficult to disable the steering wheel locking mechanism and then be able to leave the key in the off position? Too simple? too time consuming? Too complex? With all the other theft proofing devices on autos today and the fact that our autos are usually behind the coach or with us in them, why not?
Probably wouldn't be too easy to defeat the steering wheel lock. It seems from some comments about the Honda products (on the ever-reliable internet) that there is some solenoid or something that actually does need some power when being towed. On the off-chance that is true, I think I found the simplest, cheapest, most palatable solution so far. I found a 15' coiled 12 volt extension cord on Amazon for $3.97. I'll take off the plug and outlet ends and then replace with the standard 2-pin rubber plugs normally used for battery tenders and then I'll have my solution for about $10 and end up with a battery tender terminal on the MDX for storage times.
I still am not sure I'll have a battery drain problem, since there is no Navi, but $10 and an hour's labor seems a good insurance policy. I'll just zip-tie the ends to my blue coiled light cable and it should even look ok!
Brad;
I've done two things to avoid messing with the steering-wheel lock, thou on my Dodge Dakota pickup, the only thing powered in the steering-wheel un-lock position on the ignition, is a the dash; very little draw. Things I did; 1) ran an extension cord from the engine-block-heater outlet down the tow-bar and powered a little "battery-tender" under the hood. 2) put a Harbor-Freight solar-charger on the dash and plugged it into the cigar-lighter. Both worked just find but the solar panel was neater and easier.
Don't know if this will help, but we tow a 2004 Lexus, RX 330 w/navigation. The steering wheel interlock system might be the same. The interlock system locks the steering wheel when the key is removed. I totally hook up the car to the coach, with transmission in park, and remove the regular key. I then use the credit card key, to which I affix a piece of gorilla tape to insure it does not come out of the ignition slot. Turn the key on, with transmission in park, then turn the key off and do not remove. On the shift gate console, there is a small access plug which I drilled a 3/16ths hole through.
This gives access to the manual shift gate release, and I use a cutoff screwdriver to release the transmission interlock, and shift into neutral. I think the only electricity this method would use would be a very small amount to hold the electrical solenoid in the steering unlock position. After 2 years, I have never had a problem. Maybe your Acura is the same.
Gregory S
2003 Designer