I'm upgrading the rear and side-cameras on our '98 U320. As the existing rear-vision camera is sealed inside and behind the louvered grill top-center in the rear, and fairly in-accessable, I'm considering doing as I've read several have and simply installing the new camera on-top of the existing location, outside. I'm wondering if anyone who's done this upgrade has found a "shroud" or cover to dress-up the installation? As the IR feature precludes a lens or clear window, what I'm talking about would simply cover all the but "eye", for aesthetic and weather-protection. Thanks, in-advance!
While not completely covering the camera, our own John Haygarth has made a rear air deflector that might suffice. 8)
Rear Air Deflector (http://www.beamalarm.com/Documents/rear_air_deflector.html)
Chad,
I cut off the old Javelina camera and siliconed a replacement from RV Cams using a concentric ring as Tim recommended.
Thanks, Brett; Tim hasn't recommended anything, other than "the camera is tough; put it on the outside, over the old window". After attempting to reach the six semi-corroded nuts that hold that grill on his recommendation has some appeal! - Chad
Chad,
The rear camera on my 96 is accessable from the inside through the upper rear cabinets. A plywood panel and a fiberglass panel both secured with screws have to be removed. If you have to install a new cable there is a hollow aluminum extrusion that connects the side wall to the roof that runs from front to back that it can be pulled through and then down the windshield side post behind the moulding. Your 98 should be similar.
Thanks, Jerry;
I hope not to run a new shielded cable; I plan to try using the existing wiring and see how that goes. Plus, our coach has two factory side-cameras, and all the wiring runs through a three-position rocker-switch on the driver's side panel; nearly inaccessible without lots of ripping and tearing. The openings in the cabinet above the bed for access to the existing rear camera are each about 6" square and reaching the six nuts that hold the grill on, while probably doable, looks taxing. I'd originally thought I'd remove the grill, remove the welded box where the original camera is mounted, and try to fabricate a mount for the new color camera but without the plexi "window" (which defeats the IR feature). Rough measurements suggest that "box" is too small for the new camera so I'm back to an external mount. Tim says the camera is totally suited to exterior mounting; it's just an aesthetic thing for me.
Chad,
I removed the square box (cut the welds with a small abrasive cut off wheel in a hand air grinder or used a hack saw, maybe both) and made the square hole into a round hole for the camera. The 6 nuts were not too hard, left the cable attached to keep the grill from falling to the ground.
Jerry;
What you describe is exactly what I had in-mind, however in addition to getting to the six 7/16" nuts I couldn't visualize how I'd secure the new camera; how did you do that?
Chad,
It had a rim around the edge larger than the rest of the cylinder. The cylinder was threaded and had a threaded knurled nut, a couple of rubber washers, and 2 rings with one side cut at an angle so that the angle of the camera could be adjusted, however that wasn't needed. I bought the set up from ebay and am not real happy with it. My plan to put it in the instrument panel did not work out as I have to look almost directly at the screen in order to see anything, so now it is in a box just sitting on the dash. Glad I found that out before I put it in the dash. If I had been putting it on the dash from the start, I would have bought a larger display. Having it on the dash is actually better, as it is more like looking in a rear view mirror than having to look down. Even in a hooded box there is a problem with glare sometimes.
Jerry;
Interesting approach; after thinking about it for a minute I figured you probably installed a bullet-camera. I have a cradle-mounted Voyager, so my installation won't be quite as simple, it appears. I'm thinking, if I do remove the grate/camera assy. that I will cut off the top and two sides of the box, leaving a 1/2" or so of the sides as a gusset and mount the camera on the remaining flange. I'll also have to enlarge the hole to accommodate the lens size and alignment of the new camera. No plastic lens-cover, as that interferes with the IR function (and the existing port-hole is way too small). Depends on whether my patience will hold long enough to worm my hands through the little access-hole in order to remove the six nuts holding the grate on. Otherwise, I'll just drill and tap four holes on the outside, over the existing camera-hole, and call it a day.
Jerry;
As you did, I also decided against installing the new monitor in the dash. Too small, and the position is pretty low for easy viewing. I fabricated an aluminum "panel-blank" that installs from the rear and fills the hole flush with the front-face; uses the same four mounting studs that held the old CRT chassis/plexi window. On that blank I'm installing a 10" Panavise flexible mount, so the 7" LCD monitor will be about that much higher, and adjustable for optimum viewing. Just started putting all this together, as the cameras/monitor and hardware just arrived from Tim at RV Cams in Baton-Rouge.
Chad,
I used the Voyager 5.6" monitor. It is just velcroed it to the dash around the original CRT hole. I have no problem with the image from my angle in the driver's seat.
Brett,
When the day comes that I need to change out the monitor, I plan on using velcro as well. It's a great idea for fastening most anything around the coach. Plus it's got the added benefit of providing easy removal and replacement.
"Great minds" and all that!
My Panavise stalk-mount will be adjustable/repositionable and also easily removed. (I just enjoy making tasks as complicated and involved as possible.)
Chad,
I would like to see a picture of your install. I assume the audit system plugs into your monitor, and the readings are not reversed.
Hi Joe;
I'm busily soldering wire connections, but when I'm done I'll (try to) post some pictures. "Yes" the Audit signal should be correct; all signals including the camera(s) are reversed in the Javelina box.