Well, it's time again to tackle the Dash A/C leak problem. This time the coach is at RJR Radiator here in Cincinnati. The folks seem competent, but don't work on coaches very often. The Shop owner's father has owned 3 Foretravels, though. He currently owns a 42' double slide...the best part is he's 84 years young!
The shop owner spoke to Mark Harvey in Jame's absence. Not much help in describing how to get at the evaporator and how to remove the expansion valve. Spoke to Gary O. and tried to have him explain the dashboard set up to the tech at the shop, but that didn't seem to help out (thanks, Gary).
It's real tight to get at the expansion valve, and how is the evaporator removed? Any help would be appreciated. Here are some pictures:
Peter, Did the tech CONFIRM a leak at the evaporator with an electronic sniffer ? Not much of a way to find a leak without one.
On mine ( which is much different from yours ) a leak was found in the head of the evaporator and fortunately could be silver soldered in place, not likely on a bus type.
Good luck
Gary B
Gary, funny thing is the folks at Cummins Bridgeway billed me last year to do a "reman" of the evaporator which is no longer available (from FOT, anyway). When I called Cummins this morning to ask them how they got the evaporator out of there, no one was availble to answer me, and the service manager is out until next week!
The folks at the RJR Radiator repair shop now suggest that I remove as much of the dash as possible to gain access to the evaporator & expansion valve as they don't want to run up a high bill just guessing at how the dash comes appart.
I ordered the high & low pressure switches, the expansion valve and the drier from FOT. FOT is also looking into the possible replacement of the connectors to the High & Low pressure switches as these are so loose that a steady connection is not possible.
As to the possible leaks at the evaporator, we'll have to wait until the parts arrive and I can disassemble the dash...the coach is now back in the storage facility until likely next week.
Again, if anyone knows or has diassebled the dash before, your help would be appreciated.
Peter, Take a look in a NAPA store where they have FIXIT type electrical parts, Seems to me that the connectors are probably standard and if you can find them you can cut off the old ones and attach new ( Solder, shrink tubing probably better than crimp on connectors).
OR, A trip to a junk yard may be in order to match up connectors. Even if they are in a junk car or truck they are probably still useful.
Gary B
I'll also take a look at the possibility of making a tight connection with the Hi & Lo pressure sensor connectors using cable (zip) ties to hold the two parts together.
I did get some of it apart replacing the pc board that controls the doors directing air flow. Remove the instrument panel hood; remove the hinge screws so the hinges stay with the hood. Remove the trim strips at the left and right sides of the windshield; the buttons can be popped off to reveal the screws that hold them in place. The flat padded dash can now be removed; it is held in place with velcro. The piece of plywood in the long flat padded part is very thin; be careful not to break it. Below that is some more plywood and metal framing. I think that is what you would have to do if you also wanted to work on the wiper motor and mechanism. The part with the snack tray can be removed too, has some screws on the back side.
I think you may have done most of this, but here's a link to what I did to replace the leaking heater core (which is in front of the evaporator.)
Heater core replacement (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=10000.msg45564#msg45564)
Thanks, Jerry & Dave (and John who sent me a PM). It's mostly the time required. It helps if there are small skinny hands & fingers to do the work. Getting a couple of wrenches to remove the expansion valve is another issue.
This may be too late, but I just replaced the expansion valve in my 1996 U320. Remove the screws holding the lower part of the dash. You will have to pull the vents on the right side of the center to get to two of the screws. With tis part removed, you can disconnect a couple of the ducts and have plenty of room to get to the valve. I had to order the pressure switch connectors online in order to get them. The Foretravel factory didnt have them when I was there. Replacing the connectors mad a significant difference as the compressor clutch kept disconnecting.
Steve DeLange
1996 U320
Steve,
Thanks for the info. It's not too late. Tomorrow I'm going over to the coach to begin the removal of the "dog house". The parts are ordered from FOT but not yet arrived (Pressure switches, and expansion valve). Would it be possible for you to post or PM the web site where you found the Pressure Switches' connectors? Also if you know the part number it would be great (I can't tell for myself). And yes, I'm still waiting for FOT Parts to call me back with an alternative to the pressure switch connectors.
Our dash air conditioning compressor low-pressure and high-pressure switches each have a pair of male connectors. And since I could not find the matching plug, I just soldered two regular automotive connectors to the wires and inserted them one at a time in each switch. A piece of shrink tubing helps.
We also took the front center of our dash off to access the heater core and did not have to pull up any part of the top of the dash other than the hinged cover. Front came loose after removed several screws holding the center section to the wood floor.
While in the air plenum, we put the small sensor of a wired digital thermometer near the evaporator core. When the thermometer reads 35-40 degrees, we know the system is working as good as it can, even if we are not as cool as we would like to be.
Barry
Whilst looking into our dash AC not cooling well , I found the electric heater valve was not closing thus leaking hot coolant into the heater core thus warming the air being cooled by the evaporator. I was not in a position to get a new heater valve ($400) at the time ,so I installed a common in line ball valve to positively stop any hot coolant at the nonfunctional electric heater valve.
A good way to tell if your valve is bad, on a nice warm day driving down the road, turn heat valve off and turn vent open, should have cool air at the dash vent openings if it is warm to hot ,your valve is bad ,or switch is bad ,or wiring is bad. The new inline valve fixed my problem and now dash AC cools very well.
This may be part of the problem some have with the defrost not working.
I found the connectors at Quality Distributing, Automotive, Truck and Construction Supply (http://www.qualitydist.net) The numbers are 5636PT and 5637PT. They were a little less than $7.00 each. Both are black bodied connectors where my previous high pressure connector was red but it fit properly.
While I had the dog house of a ran all the selectors and checked to see they were operating properly. Mine work, I just wish my high blower setting provided a little more output.
Steve DeLange
Sorry for the poor typing. I ran the selectors through all positions and checked the operation of the doors.
Do you have a handheld black light? You can illuminate the A/C components and the leak should be visible because the oil will flouresce. Check around the compressor clutch for a shaft seal leak.
Steve,
Thank you very much for the great information on the connectors. I'll try the black light. ^.^d
Clean fan blades will deliver a lot more air than dirty ones, but maybe yours are clean.
In between cutting grass, trimming stuff, etc. I managed to get the doghouse out and ordered the Hi & Lo pressure switch connectors ( thanks again, Steve). I had to disconnect the Javelina & a whole buch of wire harnesses for the wiper control module in order to remove the fromt doghouse panel. Forgot to take camera to the storage place. Tomorrow I'll post pictures of the opening. It's much better now to work in there to remove the expansion valve.
But, instead I'll post a picture of the other handy work.
Sorry, I forgot to mention the javelina unit on the panel in the doghouse. With the access you now have, you can remove the evaporator plenum assembly if you want.
Tomorrow I take the coach to get the rest of the repairs done to the dash A/C. Here are some pictures of the dog house removed to gain access to the HVAC dash system. I've included a picture showing the wiper control wire harness.