I have traced the wire from the non-functioning MCD shade and it is hot all the way into the switch. So -- I gotta assume the switch is not working. I can barely read the name on the side of the switch and it is made by Carling. Newark Electronics carries a couple hundred thousand different electrical items and I need to find the correct "category."
The switch is one of those that rocks. Press it forward and it goes on. Release and it goes off. Press is backwards and it goes on. Release and it goes off.
Knowing the name of this type of switch would be really helpful.
I'm still learning new stuff.
Thanks
DPDT Momentary Rocker Switch
DPDT means double-pole (2 polarities), double-throw (2 operative positions)
Momentary - doesn't stay in operative position, you have to hold it or it returns to "off".
It might also have "On Off" in the description or name.
Be sure to get one properly current rated for the load. You can probably get one at Radio Shack.
Michelle
Michelle,
You are the greatest. I figured you would be the one to know the correct name. Thank you so much. MCD did come through for me. #VLD2 20A 12V. Tech said it is an ordinary 6 pole momentary switch.
adding that on p. 7 of the accessible MCD owner's/installation manual, it refers to the switch as "DPDT Momentary On-Off-On switch". And mentions the motors are 12 Vdc, 800 mA, so be sure to get a switch rated for that (or higher current. More doesn't hurt, less will). The "Shack" should have something that will work, but it might not be the exact style of switch.
Michelle
I'm going to guess it's this one, as it's the only DPDT momentary On-Off-On rocker by Carling I could find.
Digi-Key - TIGM5M-6S-BL-NBL-ND (Manufacturer - TIGM5M-6S-BL-NBL) (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=TIGM5M-6S-BL-NBL-ND)
Newark seems to have it in white, not black. About the same price of $13-16. Shipping AND minimum quantity ordering will get you. I'd be inclined to pay MCD's uplift and see if they can't work with you on shipping cost (Priority Mail may be cheaper, with fixed rate option). At least you know you'll get the right part.
Michelle
Michelle,
I used my volt meter and thought I found power to the switch. Bought an exact replacement switch at NAPA and I still have the problem. I am thinking: A. I did not trace the wires correctly (good possibility): B do you know where MCD installs the in-line fuse? In talking to their tech last week he said they do put in an in-line fuse, but said he would be amazed if the fuse had blown. I will call them Monday, but thought you might have a suggestion.
Thanks again for all of your help.
George,
Let's back it up a sec.... You were having a problem with your MCD shades, specifically the powered night shade, where it would not go down but would go up. First problem with MCD cockpit shades (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=12862.0)
Were you able to get the plunger reattached to the learning wires properly? Were you able to do anything as far as setting the up/down limits?
Is it only the night shade that is having a problem (I assume you have the American Duo with day and night on separate rolls with separate motors). Is there no movement on the night roller at all with the switch? Do you get any voltage to the motor if you operate the switch?
I'm assuming you got 12 Vdc at the switch when you checked it? You should see DC voltage at the motor if the switch is working (when you operate the switch) and there isn't a blown fuse (I have to ask Steve what he remembers about an inline fuse). If you have the Duo and the day shade is working, compare measurements taken for the day and night shade switches and motors in the same locations and note any differences (e.g. does the day shade motor see DC voltage but the night shade does not).
Michelle
Here is what I've found and I will call MCD tomorrow.
First, I did more checking with a really neat electrical test probe that I bought months ago at the urging of Gary Omel. This tool has an alligator clip to attach to ground and then any time the tip comes in contact with 12V the handle lights up. This is one neat tool and made it much easier for me to establish were 12V was flowing. (I can't believe I am actually doing this stuff.)
I have ruled out the switch. It is working and sends current up to both shade motors. More investigation revealed that no juice is getting to the day shade motor. Even more investigation uncovered an amateurish and sloppy splice that pulled apart from vibration. The end of the wire that pulled out of the splice is in a nearly inaccessible location and I need to talk to MCD to find out how long this wire is. Gently tugging on it with a pair of tweezers does not yield any more wire. I might have to take a 3 or 4 inch "jumper" wire and re-crimp it at one end and then try to solder it at the other. But first I will talk with MCD.
I have never soldered anything in my life. I have the tools, so before I attempt that splice, I will do some practicing on the picnic bench.
The $110/hour tech fee is a great motivator for me. If nothing else, I have found the problem -- so I don't have to pay to discover that. I just gotta fix it.
George, I'm proud of you. It will just keep getting easier every time you fix something new.
For this project you might try a crimp connector rather than soldering wire. You just need to get the red or blue crimp connectors at the auto parts store depending upon the size of the wire and a good crimping tool and a wire stripping tool. I recommend not getting one of the multi-connector kits that include the connectors and a cheap crimping tool. They seldom provide adequate force for a good crimp and connection. A good crimping tool may cost $25 but they are well worth it. I keep lots of wire ends and connectors in my electrical box and use them all of the time. I haven't needed to solder in years. This wiring stuff is really pretty easy, particularly when dealing with 12V DC rather than 110 AC.
George;
no no, you don't really know if you have "12 Volts", only that you have a voltage.
now turn on the sw and see if you still have voltage. some times you can have a no load voltage, and it goes away with a load.
Now Bill, don't confuse George with facts, you'll scare him to death. George, that rarely happens but that is why a volt/ohm meter is important. Chances are very good that you have discovered the problem and by reconnecting the wire everything will be fine. If the wires were supposed to be connected originally you really can't hurt anything by reconnecting them. But as usual Bill is correct, the condition he described can happen so try the switch thing too.
Kent and Bill,
Thanks for your answers. I like to have lots of information to look at.
Bill: Your point about 12V is really good. I had not thought of that. But the light in the test probe would only light up when the switch was activated. That's how i figured out the switch was o.k.
Whenever I use my meter on Direct Current I have a hard time finding a good ground. This might be due more to my inexperience than anything else.
Kent: Good input and thanks. I learned a long time ago to buy really good tools. The combo kits usually have some El Cheapo parts, so I avoid them. I have the fittings and a good crimping tool as you describe, but not enough room to handle the wires and get the tool into place to make a crimp. I will probably have to dismantle some of the front assembly at the top of the windshield and in back of the TV.
I've worked with electrical and electronics a lot of years, including 12v systems. Allow me to share a few nuggets...
For generic parts - All Electronics | Electronic and Electro-Mechanical Parts and Supplies at (http://www.allelectronics.com/index.php) . Lots of surplus pieces of all kinds - switches, fans, LEDs, motors, wiring, etc. You may not find what you're looking for, but if you do, it's a lot cheaper than anywhere else.
While working as service engineer, I used expensive crimpers and strippers (which need to be sent to the mfr every 6 months for service and calibration), but you don't need anything that fancy. I've been using one of these types of crimper/strippers for years - Long Nose Combo Tool - Wire Strippers, Crimpers, Cable Slitters - Cutting Tools (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/KLEIN-TOOLS-Long-Nose-Combo-Tool-5LL36?Pid=search) . Also cuts screws, which can be handy.
If an interior fix, and there is space, I fit a piece of heat shrink tubing to the wire, then crimp the connector, then slide the heat shrink over the connector, and use a heat gun (or hair dryer) to seal the connection. If an exterior connection, you want it waterproof. I found these little gems at NAPA --> https://www.napaautoparts.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=NW_725312_0063685264&An=0 . They come in various sizes and styles. Used these in industrial instrumentation. All you need is a heat gun or a butane torch. Fit the stripped ends into the connector, and heat. The solder melts forming an excellent mechanical connection, and the insulation shrinks forming a watertight seal. More expensive versions also feature sealant on the ends which melts from the heat and extrudes out the ends when the tubing shrinks.
Hope this helps.
Steve
Steve, George, and others;
Try these folks "mouser.com"
They have just about everythings electrical & electronic. No minimum charge or quantity.
I use them because they are close and have same day pick-up.
I have no intrest in this company in any way
Aaarrrgggghhhhhh!
I just talked to MCD. I have to remove my TV. Remove the valance. And then take down the metal frame that holds the two rollers.
None of this would be necessary if:
A. Proper splices were made.
B. MCD had not cut the 36 inch lead from the motor and made it about 4 inches long. Had they left a foot or more of wires I could easily splice the wires together.
Small consolation. MCD no longer cuts those wires that short. They leave slack in case repairs need to be made.
Oh well. More doing and more learning.
George, I have a wire stretcher for sale at a very reasonable price, only $200. Just kidding, there's no such thing as a board stretcher either but my shop teacher used to love sending people to get one.
I trust all will go well and your shades will be back in service right away. I have all faith that you will accomplish the fix.
Kent, I have a board stretcher, it is a biscuit joiner and yellow glue. ;D ;D
You mean there really was a board stretcher? Of course this was back in the days of brace and bit and hand planers. Well not really but being raised in Kansas we considered a biscuit joiner the neighbor who came over for breakfast.