I am going to install a 50 amp service so I can power up the Foretravel while parked at my home.
It is just too hot here in Texas (101) and I do not wish to operate the gen. Got the info for the wiring diagram off the forum info from www.myrv.us/electric/Pg/50amp (http://www.myrv.us/electric/Pg/50amp). My question is what size wire is needed for each item? Ground/Hot(red & black)/Neutal(white). I am on my way to Home Depot today for parts. I have an electrican coming to install once I have the parts. I am looking at getting the box with the breaker and plug as I do not have room in my home panel for another breaker of this size. Wire size? Maybe #6?? Tks for the help Dan Stansel
Dan;
Do you think you really need 50-amps? I installed a 30-amp circuit for the same purpose you outlined (and live in "sunny" Arizona - 109-degrees yesterday) It handles everything, including an a/c if I'm so inclined while working in the coach. Depending on the length of your wire-run, 30-amps is certainly adequate - and less expensive.
I wish to operate both air conditioners so if I go out to turn it on it will cool faster. 30 won't do that. Tks for the reply Dan
Also the length of the run is only about 6ft Just thru the wall. Tks DAN
I had the luxury of space in the breaker box on the pole at the electrical entrance to our property. That box includes the primary breakers for the service entrance, the breakers for our well pump, and a local 20 amp outlet. I added a 50 amp breaker pair, and wired four #6 stranded copper wires through a waterproof flexible conduit to a 50 amp RV outlet box on the pole. I bought about six feet each of green, black, red, and white wire. It barely fix in the 3/4 conduit, but made a good installation that has served well. We keep the coach plugged in when it is parked. We keep enough heat or cooling on the keep the interior dry and protected from extreme temperatures. It also keeps the batteries charged.
Normally, I use the main power cord and one 50 amp extension between the outlet and the coach. The power is quite adequate with the arrangement. Sometimes I use three main cord and two extensions if the coach is in our driveway near the house. I've not seen an significant power sag in that arrangement.
We use the coach as our guest quarters as well. Our "bedrooms" in the house have no beds in them.
Your requirements may be different depending on how long your wires are. The electrician may be your best source for reliable information.
Dan,
Wire size is determined by the amps and the length of the wire. You need to get that info from the electric code or the electrician.
Jerry: Tks for the info. Called the electician and he is to tap into my meter so the plug will be installed about two ft from the meter. Got all the info. Tks for the replies. DAN
Hi Dan,
I had trouble with the link. Is it complete?
Thanks,
Harvey
Try this one (looks like it might have truncated) The 50-amp 120/240-volt 3 pole 4 (http://www.myrv.us/electric/Pg/50amp_Service.htm)
Michelle
Tks Michelle: Harvey:Thats the same site I looked at. DAN
Dan,
Don't know the code there, but make sure you get an outdoor breaker for that line from the meter to the 50 amp outlet. It will look like the connector for the ouside A/C compressor.
Dan, just finished wiring mine yesterday. I used 100 feet of mobile home entrance cable and had no voltage drop with both ac's running. This cabel is less expensive if bought from an electrical supply co. Distance and amps will rule as others have stated.
Peter: If I get the box with the breaker and the plug in it won't that be all that is necessary? Tks DAN
Great information and timely post, thanks Dan.
Thanks Steve and Michelle for your link.
Dan,
That should do it. But I also know that the electrical code varies from state to state. So long as you have the ability to cut off the power to the outlet you shiuld be fine.
Thanks Michelle and Dan! That is a great site.
Regarding wire size: I'm thinking along these lines:
I get along fine with a 30 amp service, which is shared to both hot lines, except that I can use only one AC.
Thus I'm thinking that 25 amps for each hot line should be way more than I'll ever use.
Using the wire size calculator for 25 amps and 100 feet I get #6 wire as the recommended size.
You will need a breaker at your main panel, 50 amp double pole.
Bill,
I think Dan's electrician is taking the power from the electric meter to the 50 amp exterior box (panel). Apparently, that's okay in TX?
Peter: I don't have room in my panel box for 50 amp breaker. I am having the electrican go from the meter to a small outdoor panel box then to the outdoor 50 amp plug. He can do this then Oncor electric will come put a new seal on the meter. Only a licensed electrican can break their seal.
This will also allow me to trip the breaker before pluging in etc. Tks for the help. Dan Stansel
Here in BC Canada you could not do that as obviuosly the panel is not big enough now and more than likely the total amps could be more than the service was designed for, even using a sub panel. A larger panel would have to be used (or reconfigure what is there to make room) but I would suspect the service to home needs to be checked as well. You cannot take out more than what is coming in !!!
and that's the way I see it, right or wrong??
John: No problem here doing this. I think I could have had room in the existing panel box but would have to had put some piggy back breakers in. They would have been two in one slot. But this will work better.
I could not find the box with the 50 amp plug and breaker in the same box. If I could it may have been too expensive. Tks DAN
John,
Actually most service to homes will handle more than the main panel is rated for. My panel has a 150 amp main breaker but most homes today use a 250 amp panel and the same size wire is run from the pole.
The power company will run small wire from the transformer to your meter cab, The power company has no code they have to follow as to amps, wire size etc. Have seen 400 amp service fed with 1/0 wire, code requires 500MCM.
The power co does what ever they like or feel like, as there are no local codes that apply to them, not grounding either, they depend on the home owner to have a ground rod. that is not even close to funny, think stupid.
We got educated the expensive way, no more issues in 15 years of lightening etc, even our neighbors thank us.
A single ground rod is right up there with no ground rod.
Interesting topic and responds from a lot of different states so it would be interesting to me to know how many of you with homes can stand in one spot either indoors or outdoors and kill all the electrical power in your home including any plugs you may have outside like a 50 amp RV outlet in 6 motions are less, if you have to go outside to kill part of the power and inside to kill part of it you have a code violation.
Bobby, I see you have some code experience. For us, after 40+ years in the emergency generator field, you know we have seen some real code violations, not even close to safe. I love the back fed dryer outlet with a large portable generator. I ask the owner how he would explain to the judge how it is impossible that his setup could not have fried the worker on the line. Get the big blank look. Total lack of understanding, Huh?
Ya gotta laugh :-(
Hmmmm. How can this be? Certainly not the case in Illinois.
Hi George, I would not bet your money on that, The electric companies generally do an OK job, but they do make the rules as they go, much like some police depts or local inspectors. Would a picture make a believer out of you?
A 400 amp meter cab fed with 1/0 or less.
Is it possible that only Ill electric utilities does everything by the NEC?
Regarding the back feeding of the dryer plug, does the danger still exist with the main breaker off? Is that because it could possibly feed the ground or neutral as they are not breakered?
Just wondering............
Regards,
Jon, Yes turn off the main, all is safe, THE PROBLEM happens for example, when you are not there, the DW figures all you do it plug into the dryer outlet and smile. There are documented cases when the judge did not agree with the fool proof method as it fried a utility worker.
Being creative electrically works great as long as you are doing the contraption, but if/then & you are not there to control the calamity, and some one else figures it out to their liking. Think liability :o