I just went to CW and bought a seal kit for my Sealand Toilet. They only had one version there, but when I got it back to the coach, I see that it says it is for a 2000 and older model, due to having overflow holes.
How do I know what model of toilet I have, as I know FT maintains/maintained a stockpile of parts with which to make their motorhomes. Having a 2002 U270 would seem to me that it could easily be either a pre-2001 or a post-2001 toilet that is in there.
While I guess it would be obvious once I opened it up, whether it did or did not have "overflow holes" in the seals, I really don't want to end up having to leave that mess all open and apart if I have to go get a different seal (about 40 miles away). If I do have a new one (without overflow holes), would it matter on my manual toilet?
Anybody have any guidance? Thanks!
I have repaired a few of these (both types) in the past and quite honestly I do not see a problem with using a seal designed for bypass as the hole is not close to where the seal actually takes part. The 2 pieces fit up against the underneath of bowl and the 1/2 round flapper just really makes contact within 1/2" of opening. The overflow hole is outside of that area so does not play any part if it is not needed. Just make sure you put the seals in the right way and make sure the face of the "white round flapper is scratch and deposit free.
John
Thanks, John. When I get it apart, is there some preferred cleaning agent for the half-round ball? It has gone for a lengthy period of un-use until recently, and there looks to be some light mineral deposits possibly there.
I noticed when I started our recent trip, there was a bluish cloudy material appearing for a couple of flushings...and now it is difficult to keep the "aroma" down. Pretty apparent when I got the bluish seal that what I had seen was likely a decomposing blue seal. So, a fun task is in order.
Brad,
Arm & Hammer baking soda is a tried and true cleaner that won't scratch.
Brad,
Cheap white vinegar will help with any odor. Use a pint or two.
When we bought our coach, there were mineral deposits in the toilet. I used vinegar, Bon Ami, Dawn, and a sponge to clean the area. A year later, the seals are still sound enough that the bowl holds water.
I do put a bit of dawn in the toilet and flush it to the black tank after we dump the black water tank.
If your toilet doesn't hold water, you can try renovating the seal by cleaning the seal edge and applying silicone grease to the contact area of the rubber seal using rubber gloves of course. Silicone grease for O rings is readily available at swimming pool supply stores and has many uses around the motor home. If that doesn't solve your problem, and you have mineral deposits on the ball vinegar is probably the best and easiest way to address mineral deposits. I would try to address the minerals before taking the toilet apart so you can let either vinegar or CLR stand in the bowl for a while. Once you have the toilet disassembled you can apply Limeaway or CLR directly to the ball with a sponge for severe mineral contamination but don't let the liquid stand in the toilet after you have installed the new seals.
I had my seals replaced at MOT earlier this spring and I don't think they cleaned the ball. I had black streaks on the ball for several weeks. I'm sure that will shorten the life of the seal but I have a spare I found in one of my drawers. The PO was an bigger pack rat than I am. I also found six fuel filters for the generator in that drawer too.
Actually it is more a state of mind than a job. CLR is by far the best and quickest remover of calcium etc. Take the whole thing apart and clean by putting a goodly amount of CLR in a bucket and put all the parts in it for an hour. The valve (white round seal) be very careful when cleaning as the slightest scratch wilkl cause a leak of water. If there is a mark on it use some car polish to remove the scratch. Clean again before refitting. The large flat seals that fit against the toilet make sure again the surface is clean and rebuild making sure that all go back the way they came off. The big thing that matters in the 2 pce plastic grooved ( clamp). This has to be put on one way onlt. Make sure that they meet at the front of the toilet with the gap between them at the rear. You will see why as they have to fit aroung another peice. Before screwing the clamp tight make sure that the seal and flapper are centralised in the bowl opening (as looking down the toilet) so you want to see an equal amount of seal around the opening ( should be about 1/8" all around) Tighten the clamp and reasemble the rest. If after testing you have a tiny leak from seal just tighten that gear clamp a bit more and it should move the flapper closer to the seal giving you a tighter fit. I am sure you will do fine. Also replace the sponge gasket if it has not been replaced for a long time
John
John,
About how long is the sponge gasket that seals against the floor good for?
unless you are seeing a leak from that area I would not touch it. I only mentioned it in the last post because with the toilet off for other reasons it is just good practice to replace this as it usually gets pretty crappy (no pun intended) and as it is compressed the chance of it going back together in exactly the same spot is not worth the risk for a few dollars. I really think this is a bad design using this type of seal so on a few ocasions I have put a small coating of silicone caulk on the inside diameter and top face of foam to prtect it somewhat during flushes. If you look thru the toilet opening you will see that some of the foam gasket is visible so obviously there is a remote chance of water seeping thru' the gasket in time. The hold down bolts should be tightened enough that the toilt does not rock, and no tighter. The BIG thing when rebuilding these toilets is that you get the plastic clamp ring in the right place and tightened down correctly. If not it will leak all around the joint where the china bowl meets the plastic parts.
Toilet repair is maybe the biggest item I have repaired for friends while on the road as it is a part no one like to touch, but should get maintence just like all the rest, even if it is only visible inspection. Keeping the seal and flapper area clean of deposits is usually the secrect to not having a problem while travelling. I regularily empty the water out and pour CLR into the bowl and leave it overnight before flushing with water. This keeps calcium etc under control.
Thanks, John
Our gasket is only about 20 months old. I was wondering about a foam gasket after a lifetime of dealing with wax rings.
John
Our toilet bowl no longer holds water , plan to leave some clr in the bowl over night in case it's mineral deposit.
If that doesn't solve the problem I will order parts to replace the bowl half ball seal and base seal , I know you done this job a few times !
Is it pretty straight forward and do you have any photos or advice?
Thanks Jim
Jimmy,
Before jumping into an overhaul, with glove on, smear pure silicone grease (plumbers grease from any box store) on the seal.
May not solve it, but certainly worth a couple of dollar try.
Jimmy I just did mine and it is very easy, not sure you need to change the half ball unless it is chipped or broken, take the base cover off with the two screws that hold the cover on the peddle unsnap the trim piece at the base.
Then remove the band and lift off the bowl and set it aside you should see two gasket's and most likely they will have deposit on the either clean them off or replace. That's all I did to mine and has been holding water now for three months. Good luck.
Thanks for fast response, will try lubricating with silicone grease tomorrow, then would like to have new seals on hand before stripping toilet down.
Have spent last 30 mins trying to read the label on back of bowl to get model and serial number ( 15256) can't decipher model from dimensions ( original brochure)
It's either a 510+ or a 2010 !
Think it's a 510+ due to shape of bowl
The clr followed by plumber grease on the seal has slowed the leak down but not stopped it .
So I think it's time to order new seal
Jimmy, finally got online today so here is my 2 cents.
Give the CLR another go but hold the valve open and use an old toothbrush with CLR on it and scrub away. Use it under the seal too scrubbing all around the underneath and then put more in the bowl and leave it overnight if you can. Try the seal next day and see if it now holds water.
JohnH
Ok John will get on it again tomorrow and report results.
Full clean and regrease has failed to solve the problem, so ordered new seal today .
If anyone has photos or advice on changing to seal i would appreciate them .
A 510 is extremely easy. You probably don't need new seals. There are 2. One says this side up and the other doesn't matter. Scrape the crud off both and also scrape the crud off the half ball (you can't see it all with the bowl on). You don't need grease as stated above. When you re-assemble add any kind of cooking oil (cheapest) every once in a while to keep it lubed. I did mine in 1/2 hour.
You WILL have to shut off all incoming water and drain pressure as there is one hose that goes from the foot pump to the bowl that has to come off at the foot pump.
Nice dog.
Twig
Thanks for advice.
Sadly I lost missy a few months ago , worst day of my life and I miss her every day !
The seal is actually made by the half ball pushing up on the rubber seals, not how much it closes. It is usually crud preventing the seal.
and if it has the metal clamp around the mid section you can try to tighten the bolt up some as what this does is increase the pressure of ball flapper against those flat neoprene seald and stop leaks.
The clamp nut will be at the rear of toilet after taking off the plastic base collar.
JohnH
Tackled the toilet issue this morning after receiving new seals , turns out the upper seal ( thick one ) was missing, it had been replaced by some plumber paste or similar, after scraping the mess off and doing a full cleanup, i reassembled with new seals and so far it's holding water in the bowl.
Thanks for the advice
wel some idiot I guess though better than the makers. That missing part would throw all our suggestions out the window for sure.
JohnH
To the contrary, all the suggestions and advice helped me understand how the seals worked and how the whole thing went together.
The funny thing was me checking and rechecking where the seal had gone!!
Thanks again
And a thank you from me as well...will need to replace the seals & find the timer/sensor/float(?) for the transfer pump (toilet to black tank.