When I was looking for that water leak last month I placed green dye in the grey tank and red dye in the black tank. Never did see any sign of colored water but did find the fresh water fitting leaking which I repaired. After taking the rig to the suspension shop with 1/2 full tanks (for the weight) I returned home to discover a small red colored swirl of dried liquid on the floor of the wet bay. Has anyone ever had a black tank leak that only shows up with movement of the coach? If so, what did it turn out to be? Also, has anyone ever replaced or worked on the grey or the black tank in an older unit? Interested in the layout, connections, etc.. Just thinking about it...there would be the obvious fittings at the tank end at the discharge, the fitting at the throne and a vent. The tank would probably slide out from the wetbay.
Dwayne, I found a large hole in the top of the black tank that had a leaky phenolic patch over it. While at FOT last year, I asked the shop about it and was told that the holding tanks came with multiple access ports so one tank could be used by different RV manufacturers. The unused ports were sealed with a patch that was attached with screws and sealed with caulk. Over time the patch at the top of the black tank, curb side had deteriorated from chemical attack to the point where a little fluid would occasionally slosh out when the coach was in motion.
To get access to the tank, I removed the fiberglass panel hiding the holding tanks and the leaky port was right in front of me on the upper right side of the black tank. I removed the old patch and scraped and sanded the area around the hole. I then attached a new patch made from ABS plastic with urethane caulk and SS machine screws. No leaks so far after six months. Also, no more lingering odor when I open the bay door. Both the urethane caulk and a ABS or polyethylene patch material are very chemical resistant and should not be affected by the chemicals or gasses in the tank.
Hope this helps. I don't know how many coaches had this patch but it sounds like the same issue you have.
Dwayne. I had a 93 GV before this U295 and had to remove the black tank as it had a cut in the botton of tank when I bought it. The previous owners never used the bathroom I was told and used the rv parks facilities !!! Anyway I had to take it out to fix. To get it out (it was positioned in front of the rear duals on the drivers side) take the trim strip off to remove the fibreglass panel and in front of the tire that left side was all foam,painted black. I cut all that out and the tank was exposed and hanging on a plywood base with 2 long threaded ready rods to hold it in place. Once you have taken the valve etc apart the tank just pulls off the toilet down pipe (no need to remove toilet). It is a bit messy but very do-able. My problem was the heating pads under tank had been left on for some time with no water in tank and it had literally caused the tank to crease and finally crack. I had it welded with ABS rod and re-installed. At the time I called FOT to see what a new tank was and it was $400 plus labour coming to over $800. I did it in 2 part days.. I put a larger ply base under it too and it was also treated.
If yours is in the same place this is what to do.
John
John, I'm curious. You mentioned heating pads under the holding tanks. I was not aware Foretravel used heating pads since the tank bay is heated by the furnace. What activates the heating pads? Are the 12V DC or 110V AC? This really piqued my curiosity.
I should have been more specific. The GV I bought was the only one that FT built that had under floor heating and all lines had metal heating strips tied to them. The whole system was run on many low voltage relays with necessary switching for each circuit. The coach was built to go to N W Territories so had to be kept as warm as possible to stop freeze up. I did not know this when I bought it as the owner had passed away and it was part of an Estate sale by the family. The Father was one of the Directors of Boeing I was told. Under the bottom of it was a 6" deep sheet metal box cover and this was also lined with 1 1/2" blue foam board so when anything needed to be done I had to take sections of this apart. I tell you it made all the more work to replace something but had it's good points. I called FT soon after I bought it to ask for an electrical schematic of it all and they said they did not have one and they would never do one again as it cost them more than what they priced to the customer. So that is why the heating pads are there still. I sold it to a person in Ontario.
By the way I still have a solenoid and 3 boxes of new O rings for the HWH kick down Jacks on that unit. They belong to the 610 model Jack and if anyone wants them they are free.
John
John,
I have Kent Speers U-225 with HWH jacks. Kent says that your offered parts fit my units. I would like the parts as spares, and willing of course to pay any shipping costs.
Slow freight to DFW area, I can supply you an address.
Thanks in advance,
dave send me your adress and they are yours
John
Address has been sent, email this morning.
Thanks for the offer.
Kent, went over to the coach today and took off the cover but couldn't see anything so I noticed that the overhead of that compartment is also a cover so took it down. Didn't see any sign of leakage from above but there is only a sliver of clearance but still couldn't see anything topside. I did see the inlet you spoke of but now I'm really perplexed. There is something connected there and I can see in to approx. under toilet and there is another connection. Why would there be two operable inlets to a black tank?
The second connection you see may be the connection for the vent. I expect all waste water tanks will have a vent that extends through the roof.
if the second pipe is about 1 1/2" dia that is what it is -a vent.
I am beginning to understand that there are many many variations from year to year even with the same model. Sorry my idea didn't help.
I wonder why that is? Reinventing the wheel is very costly. You'd think they'd have made them as cookie cutter as possible. The connection just in from the end must be a vent. I know the vent on the roof is roughly in about the same distance from the side of the coach. Next time I'm there I'll try to see if they line up. In any event I don't see any sign of leakage on the top of the tank or at the connections but I really can't see in very far. I don't usually drive with full tanks as we only stay in campgrounds and I flush tanks before leaving. As I said, there wasn't very much, just a tablespoon worth all dried up in the wetbay. Of course I can't see under the tanks. I know there was no leakage under the coach or at the bulkhead as I was under there most of the day with the shim removal nightmare. The suspension guy looked at it and said I could mount an air bag on either side of the axle on top of the torsilastic spring secured with ubolts and have a shelf above welded to the frame above that for something to push against. I think I'll start saving for the new springs and keep an eye on the rate of sink. Right now I'm 32 1/4 all around but with no shims at the left rear. Since the new shocks and suspension adjustment, the front feels very light, which it always has but now it is worse. Thinking about adding the panhard bar to the rear and ubolting a piece of angle iron or rail as far forward on the frame as possible.