Feel it is about time to get into the Toad Brake thing, like the Air Force air setup, not the price. I seem to recall another system about half the price that also used the air setup. Any thoughts / Recommendations ?
All ears
Thanks
I believe you're thinking of M&G Engineering. Kent Speers had one installed within the last year at their factory/HQ in Athens, TX (not terribly far from Nac).
M & G Engineering - Car Braking Systems: Home Page (http://www.m-gengineering.com/index.html)
Michelle
Dave,
I am getting ready to install a Roadmaster Brakemaster 9160 with breakaway on my 2004 F150 SCREW. Found it on craigslist last year and it was installed on a vehicle that the new owner had no use for it. It looks brand new so it probably saw little use.
We have the M&G too. Also had it installed at the factory (basically a small shop) in Athens. We are 100% satisfied after 1.5 years of use and about 20,000 miles of travel.
Yes, Thanks, the M&G unit is what I was looking for, but forgot who etc. Many thanks
Dave,
I have experience with only one of your alternatives, the Roadmaster Brakemaster 9000. I'm passing it along for whatever help it might give you.
The 9000 is generally sold along with an in-coach air compressor for hydraulic brake MH applications. You don't need that suplemental compressor for an air brake MH, and it was a very easy adaptation for the guys at MOT to provide an air supply when I transferred it over from my gasser SOB to my FT four years ago.
Can't really generalize from a sample of one, but I can report that this system has been performing flawlessly for me for 5 years/50K miles. I like the proportional braking concept, and I'm certain that it has made a positive difference in more than one "panic" braking situation. Moreover, proportional braking seems not to have affected brake wear on our 06 Honda CRV - still good brake life on original equipment at 57K non-towed (plus 50K towed) miles.
Dave, it is not hard and not expensive ($50-$100) to make your own tow brake with an air cylinder, even less cost with parts lying around in your shop.
A piece of metal can be bent to fit over brake pedal and attached to the working end of the air cylinder. A bracket can be made to anchor the end of air cylinder to floor near driver chair. Use quick disconnect on motorhome, tow-car & air cylinder air lines. Use clevis pins on brake pedal and air cylinder anchor brackets.
For modulated stops run air line from motorhome brake. For simple system and one that does not connect to motorhome brake line, run motorhome airline to fill small air tank (with check-valve) in tow car. Use a solenoid to dump air to air cylinder whenever motorhome brakes are applied. Add breakaway option by opening solenoid from tow-car battery whenever breakaway switch is closed. Diode keeps breakaway from back-feeding to motorhome brake lights.
Can't beat your own design.
Barry & Cindy
I have an even better system. I have Ruth sit in the car and when she sees the brake lights go on she puts her foot on the Toad brake !! Works fine and we never get to argue while we are driving !!!
(only joking)
Dave, the M-G was only about $800 installed at their site. They also attend some rallies and do installations there. You can get their system without a breakaway and save a couple hundred dollars.
The thing I like about the M-G is its simplicity. It does not hook up to the brake pedal, they just install one air powered component between the power brake assist cylinder and the master cylinder of the towed. The only alteration to the motorhome air system is a T and the addition of a 1/4" air line with a quick connect on the back bumper. They claim if there is ever a failure of the air line on the coach, the coach compressor can easily keep up with the loss of air through the 1/4" line so they use no special safety cutoff on the coach.
So far it operates great. We had had a couple of close calls with emergency stops this spring. I'm really glad I made the investment. Making smooth stops requires much less pedal pressure so it is much easier now.
I had the M&G braking system installed at the factory in Athens, Texas. It has worked great so far has it for about 3years. Easy hook up. The Chev HHR is a little harder for them to do but they can do it. Braking really helped coming down the 15 miles of the Smoky Mountains last summer.
I was only using the braking joy stick when I realized the tow was pushing. A little braking keeps things balanced. Dan Stansel
John,
Your system seems like a winner. No unnecessary stops, arguments over which direction to turn or if your driving too fast. Could prove more costly in the end though.
Take a good hard look at the Roadmaster Brakemaster, economical simple easy to move from toad to toad. Also look at the laws,most require a breakaway. Canada laws require toad brakes in most places. The laws become more clear AFTER an accident.
Anyone have experience with the Brake Buddy?
Isn't that what John was talking about. I believe her name is Ruth!!!
Got a ultra deal on a Roadmaster Add-A-Brake on ebay. This is a portable unit that can transfer from car to car. Installations instructions look easy and reasonably quick. Will install in several weeks and post a review.
well said Kent, he he.
I have a Brake Buddy and found it works well but on our trip around the states and Mexico last winter I did not use any system but know it is illegal not too. I only have one thing against B Buddy and others like it is that you have this biggish unit to keep moving around when travelling. It has only done 3 trips since I bought it and I may soon sell it for no other reason than installing the M G one as the previous owner of the bus had air installed at the back as he used that one
John
John, from reading your posts I don't think you would have any problem installing it yourself. Once M-G knows what vehicle it is going on they can send you prefabricated parts specific to you vehicle. It took one old cowboy and a nice young fellow about 30 a little over an hour to install it on both the Subaru and the coach. They said Subarus are one of their most difficult installations due to lack of space under the hood. I suspect they would be very good at talking you through any difficulties.
I would not recommend Brake Buddy unless your toad has anti-lock brakes or keeping the settings very low (1 or 2 numbers below what is recommended) so as to not lock up the toad brakes during emergency stops. It will cause flat spots on the tires :-(. Of course I don't know if the anti-lock brake systems work with the ignition switch in the accessory position and the engine not running.
I also had trouble with the remote control from the toad to the drivers position in my 36' U320. Worked sometimes but it was not dependable enough to use.
Yup. I continue to use mine and it is in the 4th towed vehicle at the moment. Does the job and is simple to move and nothing to worry about in the way of air leaks in the FT. Sometimes simple is, well, simpler. I should note that I have the original, cream-colored model and there is nothing to "remote control". It does have an alert to tell me when it is on, and I do always set it lower than recommended for the weight of the vehicle, and at sensitivity setting 2. I have faith in the FT having a 10,000 towing capacity and my MDX is about 4800 lbs. The Brake Buddy is there for liability and in the event of a breakaway.
Maybe add a buzzer in the toad tied to the MM brake lights so she can read or sleep.... remember if your not the lead dog the view never changes....
Happy 4th to all, And thank you to all the servicemen who have made it possible for us to enjoy the freedom we have.
Cheers to All..
Ted In Seattle
I have a ReadyBrake from Night Shift Auto. It is a mechanical surge brake. I did not want to mess with the air system. Works great, but I had hot toad brakes after coming down Hoosier Pass in Co. Lengthened the brake cable to the point of not functioning, appeared legal. Now shortened for just a little braking and/or braking in emergency braking. I have been reading this post and considering change when in Nac in two weeks. But don't like the idea of being pushed down a mountain when using the retarder. I can not tell any difference in using it or not using. I suppose in an emergency stop it might help.
Roy
09 Nimbus 42
4 door Jeep
Roy,
The best way to not be pushed down a mountain is to use one of the air brake systems mentioned in this topic.
And for sure George, I would think you would be preaching the Retarder benefits after your experience when in Montana last year. I recommend using the retarder tooooo . :o ;D
Roy,
Do you have permission to visit NAC? Be careful there! ;)
We have an electric brake system that is adjusted so that it only activates on a hard stop or a breakaway. It is adjusted to my definition of a hard stop. A light in the driver's area indicates when the system activates. The activation is not proportional. When activated, it causes a hard stop from the Jeep. It doesn't lock tires on dry pavement. I can't feel it kick in and help the combination to stop in a situation that requires hard braking.
We have found the function very satisfactory. We were comfortable using the retarder descending into Denver on I-70. We did not use brakes until ready to exit on C-470. The Jeep was free-wheeling and I did not feel "pushed" at all. We traveled just slightly faster than the big trucks, which was generally around 45 mph.
Just wanted to bring up a thought. Retarder should not be used on a wet road surface. Without a breaking system you would need a much longer stopping distance. On a panic stop will you be able to avoid even a small collision? If you are in a state that requires a system a sharp attorney may cause you major headaches. FWIW
We have an Air Force One. Problem being the accumulator had to stay with our old coach. Waiting till Tuesday for additions part for our 02. Of course, that is the most expensive part.
NO-He doesn't have permission to go to NAC!
Roy is barred from TX and NAC in particular!--Martha