The spouse informed me last night that the shower is only putting out HOT water.
NO COLD WATER.
All other cold water outlets have cold water as they should.
WHY do I not have COLD water for the shower?
I need to get this resolved.
Ideas, Suggestions? I checked the archives and didn't seem to find much on the subject.
There are 230,000 miles and 15 years of full timing on this 1996 U270 so things can wear out.
Thanks....
Any water coming out the bottom of the coach? If not then do you have the single lever/knob water control? If so the ball inside of the housing probably became disconnected. Time to replace the unit if you cannot get parts.
Jon, my 93, U300 has the same issue in this 100+ heat. I think it is that the water lines are being heated by the sun on the side of the coach. When I was in Kansas City last week and the temps were in the 80's, I had cold water in the shower but not now at 104. I also get mostly hot water in the bathroom sink.
Could be sediment or calcium plugging the cold water line at the shower valve.
Jon,
If it is only the shower then it might be a stuck temperature compensating cartridge in the shower valve. Is it a Symmonds?
If so you can dismantle the front end and soak the unit in white vinegar to free up the internal piston. I believe a 1" deep socket can be used to remove the main valve. They can be quite tight and I have used my 1/2" impact gun on many to remove it. Also if you cannot get the handle off, try some heat with a heat gun or ply a propane torch on it lightly and pull or get a handle puller. Most Home Depot or Lowes have the parts you need.
Good luck,
Symmons Shower Valves (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4MC83qaqbc#ws)
I finally completed the repair of the shower. The faucet control was a MOEN. Lifetime warranty IF you can get them on the phone. In this heat, I needed to get it fixed and the only option was to go to Home Depot and purchase a WHOLE valve assembly, and all of the associated fixture pieces (bathtub faucet, shower pip and head, and pieces parts) as no components were available.
After looking at the installation for a LOOOOONG time, I determined that whomever repaired this thing before was an IDIOT. It was a terrible cobble job.
To fix it correctly required replacing not only the valve assembly but, all of the piping had to be changed due to the previous installation being done WRONG. It took a lot of time during the worst Michigan heat spell in a long time to get the job done. The MOEN instructions leave a lot to be desired for decent comprehension. The problem with no water was the stuck valve inside the inside valve in the valve body. If anyone else has to do this job, I may be able to offer some insights into the problems you will encounter.
Jon, do you think that just soaking your old valve assembly in CLR or LimeAway would have fixed the problem, at least temporarily?
I do feel better now. The old truism about even a blind squirrel finding a nut comes to mind.
It most likely would have worked using Muriatic acid had I not been in a hurry and had thought of it in time. I actually had the Muriatic on hand. Hindsight indicates that, that would have been an easier course of action.
I attempted to remove the internal valve assembly without doing any soaking and in the process, ruined the valve assembly and the valve body itself. There was a LOT of corrosion inside the valve body and probably more inside the internal assembly which if soaked in Muriatic might have resolved the entire problem. I should have sat down and pondered the situation like I usually do but, in this instance, with very high temps, we both wanted to take a shower ASAP. So, I forged ahead without proper planning. Dumb move. One other problem with this installation is that Foretravel used the grey plastic lines in this coach and also the grey plastic 90 degree ells for the supply water lines. The grey ells are having a tendency to leak where they connect to the brass valve body. I have now tightened them to flush contact with the body and hope that they will seal. If not, off to the parts store I guess for new ones or a solution. I am using Teflon tape with them but, that may not be recommended and I am just not very confident in using them. The waterline connections are the hand tighten variety. YUK! At least we have been able to take showers.
Regards,
Jon Twork
Jon, see if you can locate a Seatech fittings dealer, the make different series of fittings, you would want the series 35 fittings.
Hope this helps.