Just ordered the M&G system, my question as have not seen nor put an eye ball on the kit yet, how does the system connect to the FT, on the rear brake line I am sure, but what happens when/if the break away happens ?
Am wondering how much air loss through the open line to the toad that is no longer there ?
Anyone have a clue ?
Thanks
Dave, they told me that if their air line ruptures, since its a 1/4" line it can leak wide open all day and not affect the braking of the coach. Their claim is that the engine air compressor puts out far more volume than their air line can exhaust.
Regarding the Break Away mechanism, it is a bottle containing compressed air from the system that is independent of the coach braking system. Mine is attached to the firewall. It fills when you first hookup and holds enough pressure that if the towed separates breaking the air link from the coach the little tank will lock up the towed brakes with its independent air supply. There is a separate cable that hooks to the coach that pulls the firing pin on the lockup mechanism if the towed falls away from the coach.
I had mine installed at their place but they said the installation instructions are very clear and fairly simple. A guy with your mechanical aptitude should have no problems with the installation. It didn't look very complicated.
Dave... I see Kent responded while I was typing... BUT, your question piqued my curiosity and here's what I found on the internet while Ken was posting (FYI, we really like our M&G system, which M&G installed for us in 12/09 at their Athens, TX site).
This very interesting link was posted (with photos) in 2006 by a DIY guy... who explains: "
In the event of a failure the brake system's isolating valves would still give you 3 wheels worth of braking and the air pressure loss by a severed line would be very minimal because it's the service line, not the "hot" emergency line.": RV Tech Library - Installing an M&G Tow Brake (http://www.rvtechlibrary.com/towing/towing_mg.htm)
Pat, excellent link. That's a much better description of what I was trying to say.
What's that about a picture's worth 1,000 words? ;D I'm a very visual kind of learner... and, besides, how did we ever get along before the internet?! :))
Dave, I did break the line from the F/T to the M&G no air loss unless you apply the brakes the only minimal. I carry a piece of 1/4 airline, as well as a union. But at the time I just kinked the plastic line over applied a little universal fix all (Duct Tape) until I got to a place to fix it. Make sure when you route your air line leave enough slack at the axle to allow for travel, and Leveling, Love the M&G no mus on fuss, it just works like it's supposed to. Mine was used when I got it 6 Years ago.
Many thanks to all on this one, It should arrive tomorrow Thursday, 2nd day air, so I see games this weekend as am getting ready forthe Big Horn area and the Custer park, so am still laughing, thanks to all.
Dave M
OK, for the rest of the story on the M&G toad brake setup, received it yesterday, today got into installing the kit. Everything looked great until the required space needed became an issue.
To install the unit on the vacuum brake booster, would require cutting off 1" part of the plunger on the original booster, then making up a new rod between the M&G unit and the master cylinder as the supplied unit had a rod approx. 1' TOO short, after all this, it would not fit due to the air filter assy. Yes, I could cut off the air filter bracket, rearrange the plumbing, but still way too close for comfort.
SO after spending 2 hours in the re-engineering mode, decided to send it back to M&G, and I will keep checking for a toad brake that does not require modifying the 04 Ford F150 where it would look screwed up once the brake system was removed.
Still open to ideas. Yes it could have been installed but the end result would look like Hogan's Goat.
AM certain, M&G has a good unit and for the correct vehicle, would be great, sad to say it is not well designed for my 04 Ford F150
Cheers
There was a bit of re-engineering on my Subaru as well. If that bothers you that is the one down side to the M-G system. Their actuator is pretty bulky. You need to be able to mover the master cylinder out about 3". Sorry I didn't think to mention that Dave.
Dave, check the SMI Air Force One.
Check with Jeff Savournin before buying the Air Force One.
Dave,
We have used the US Gear Unified Tow Brake on 2 rv/toad combinations over the past 10 years. It's a more complicated install than M&G and probably more expensive, but we have never had a problem with it. There is a controller that mounts on the coach dash that requires critical placement because it has internal sensors. The portion in the toad uses a small under-hood compressor and a cylinder with cable attached to the brake pedal that is fairly unobtrusive in the toad. It is proportional and you can adjust the braking from the coach controller. You can also activate the toad brakes independent of the coach should something get squirrely with the toad. There is also a breakaway feature. It may be an option to consider.
Michelle
I have used the US Gear Unified Tow Brake with the same car on 2 motorhomes. I believe it gives better control over towed braking than any other system on the market. It provides both progressive and proportional braking and allows control of the braking force in the towed from the driver seat in the motorhome. The towed brakes can be applied independently of the motorhome brakes if/when that should ever be necessary. Installation takes a while but it is not difficult and the wiring can be integrated into the towing wire harness so that it is activated when you connect the tow vehicle to the motorhome or you can use the separate 2 wire cable supplied.
One description of it is here Unified Tow Brake - Complete System (http://tweetys.com/unifiedtowbrake-completesystem.aspx) When I bought mine, PPL Motorhomes had the best price.
roadmaster 9160,,,,
Dave, I had to do some re-engineering as well, and make a new push rod for the jeep. But not a big deal, but I only gave $100.00 bucks for my M&G. More than likely any systen that goes between the M/Cyl, and the booster will require some "field modifications". They don't give you much room in the new vehicles these days.