Not sure when the condenser fan stopped operating, but with the hot weather, it became noticeable the dash air was not up to snuff, Normal temp was in the low 50'sf range, now it is in the 63f area, low pressure about 38psi the high side about 435psi, that would be a hint of no fan on condenser, so upon checking, sure enough, it don't work. The circuit breaker under the bed is good, so I now need to get under the rear and see what happened, thinking maybe when the resonator was installed, the wires got damaged / disconnected or something.
More as it unfolds, but wonder if anyone else has had a similar situation ?
Dave, I had no condensor fan working and it was the 15amp fuse link on the wall under bed. There are 3 of them on my 2000 U295 36' and as you look down on them it goes 30 amp on left then 2 of the 15 amp ones, the one in the middle was for the fan and I could not get any continuity across it so I took it out and replaced it along with the other 15. I took them apart and sure enough it was rusted out inside. The other was a bit rusted but still working. I think the location of them and wiring is a bad place as it gets all the crap from road. I have made a cover that now hangs down over all the wiring etc and fastened with a strap to hold it in place while driving. I do not hink you will have moved any wiring while doing the muffler work as it is all strapped up good on mine (but you never know). If you have not checked this out (continuity) try it.
John
Condenser fan is controlled by a relay near our isolator on our coach. Power to relay is from an auto reset circuit breaker next to the relay. Relay is closed when dash air calls for cooling and high & low pressure switches are closed. Compressor has its own relay and circuit breaker located in same area as isolator. These have nothing to do with under bed breakers. Wiring diagram describes it all very clearly.
John, I understand, the breaker is holding, this morning I will get into the relay close to it.
Barry, on the 01 320, the isolator, circuit breakers (3), small control relays (2), one for A/C clutch and one for the condenser fan. Just lift the bed, they are mounted on the inside facing the engine.
Today, I will try to find the relay condition and where it is controlled from the front A/C control.
Still, will not be surprised if a wire became disconnected during the muffler to resonator installation. I felt at the time, the mechanic was waving things around more than enough.
Problem, I am not as agile as once was, so things I used to take for granted no longer seem to get along as well.
Thanks
Your condenser fan is on the same leg as your ECM. If your fan was shorted you would have the engine die on you.... SO you are probably right with the wire being knocked loose. IT is easy to replace those three breakers and I had mine done last year.
The same switches that tells the condenser fan relay to close, also tell the compressor clutch to engage. So if you see the compressor clutch engaged, and the fan does not run, it cannot be a problem with the dash a/c, high or low switches. Over the years the wiring diagram for coaches seemed to stay the same and all near the isolator. And all these parts are out in the weather.
Hi John,
Hope your recovery is going well.
As for the condenser fan, I did some snooping this morning and found the relay good, the wire from the relay to the fan motor is dead, so need to get under and have a look see, but I suspect the mechanic disarranged the wire during the swap to the resonator as I have not noticed nor needed the A/C during or since that time until recently. The A/C does work, it just does not get down into the low 50's like it had been doing. Why all the testing of pressures. With the high pressure of about 435 psi, it sure indicated the condenser fan could be the issue. So Bingo
Prefer luck to smarts ;D
Cheers
Barry, For sure, that made it very simple to determine which relay was for clutch and which one for fan. Actually I love the way this is laid out very simple to trouble shoot. NOW if I were younger and more limber/flexable, all would work better Hee Hee !
Thanks
OK, Today we got into the rest of the story, The problem with the condenser fan is the fan motor its self. So for about $200.00 + UPS etc, should have a new one later this week.
After finding the problem, I called Mike at MOT, he said to also replace the circuit
breaker (15 Amp) that feeds the fan circuit, due to fact, normal when the fan dies, the breaker has been over worked and should be replaced even if it still conducts as it will fail soon. Thanks to Mike @ MOT for that tid bit.
Cheers
Have a 1992 U280. Purchased a year ago last April. Salesman said "everything works except the trash compactor". Fell for that one. Anyhow, changed out both roof air units for 1500's. Need to get dash air working. Was only blowing defrost. No vacuum pump. Added pump. Blows through vents fine now. Condenser fans not working. Changed over to R134A. Went well. Anyone know of location of fan fuse? Not under bed. Compressor working..no leaks. Any help would be appreciated.
You might start a new post so members know the actual year you are working on.