Does anyone here a service or repair manual for the Haldex Pure Air dryer ?
Looks like I will have to rebuild mine and I would like to have a manual on hand when I begin.
Thanks
Gary B
Gary,
these should help.
Foretravel Motorhome technical help and information links (http://beamalarm.com/foretravel-links/foretravel-technical-help.htm#Air_Dryer)
Gary,
If you get a DQ 6020 (lower) and a DQ 6026 (upper) repair kits they come with a real good set of instructions. These numbers are for the Pure Air Plus NOT the Purest air. Call your local Freightliner dealer he most likely has them in stock.
Make sure that while you have the dryer apart you clean and lube the 2 piston "O" rings that are on the air inlet check valve. (this isn't mentioned in any literature that we have ever seen)
Pamela & Mike
There are PDFs for the rebuild kits. Not real good... As long as you keep track of what hose goes where you are 90 percent
I am not sure that photos will show in this post.
Just finished rebuilding the Haldex Midland Pure Air Dryer on my 95 U280. The mechanic that serviced my tranny took the dryer off the frame rail as physically I just can't do that anymore.
I ordered Haldex Kits DQ6020 and DQ6026 from Ryder Fleet parts. The instructions were pretty clear but I did end up with one O ring left over so I took it apart again only to find that I had not missed one, the left over actually went on an outlet fitting.
I could not find any part numbers on the dryer except the " Pure Air Plus " printed on the attaching band.
It soon became apparent why this dryer failed.
The screw that goes into the end of the purge valve had been tightened too much splitting the plastic valve, the pieces were lodged beside the valve and there was no way that the valve could close. I suspect from tool marks that someone had been in this dryer before.
I have driven it for almost 8 years this way.
The written instructions said that you could service this dryer without removing it from the vehicle BS..... The dryer is behind the skid pan and the pressure relief valve is between the frame rail and the dryer body. In addition only a magician could install the purge valve with it still on the coach.
Below is the coalescing filter, it was wet with oil residue but not really in bad shape.
The part below was LEFT OVER. It appeared to be a cup like washer, kind of like a brake cylinder cup. It was lodged under the purge valve and was wadded up in such a manner that it had no function. I had no corresponding part that looked like it and there was no where that looked like it would fit so I did not worry about it.
Here is the finished product ready to go on coach. I will have mechanic put it on one day next week.
One minor problem , the wiring harness for the heater is impossible to disconnect while dryer is in place, to do you would have to remove the purge valve cover and let the heater hang on its wires, since there is very little clearance between the dryer and the skid plate it is easier to cut the wire and butt splice it later.
Thanks to several of you for your advice and directions, I had never tackled this before and your help was invaluable.
Total Cost was $154 for upper and lower kits.
Gary B
Here are the photos that I could not get at show up in body of post.
I fully understand!
Just the other day when laying on the bathroom/hallway floor while removing the toilet valve to clean out the screen, I was wishing that they would have sent along a elf to do that kind of stuff.
Gary,
By what we can see from the pics. that is a DA 33100 this is for one with a 12VDC heater.
The cup part that is in the third pic. was once part of the turbo valve in the second pic. I know that is hard to believe.
On a side note: To make the heating element work better/properly sence the temp. it is recommended to put a dab of heat sink grease in the nickle size blind hole that the heating element fits into.
Pamela & Mike
Pamela and Mike, You can see why I was surprised that this thing even worked with that plastic valve broken up. Kit had a new turbo valve, disc and screw. I still don't know where the cup came from, if it was part of the turbo valve I did not get a new one in the kit.
What controls the heater ? I don't see any controls at all, is heater on all the time ?
Gary B
Gary,
The new style turbo valve is made with the rubber seal vulcanized to the metal disc. The old one must have been opened/closed a million times. You have to really look close to tell that it was at first wrapped around the little disc so it would seal on both sides.
The heating element is controlled by a bi metal strip that is in the middle of the base of the heating element. (the little round disc in this pic.)
Mike and Pamela, That makes sense, I saw that the new disc had a rubber coating on it. How that rubber cup got into the purge valve area is beyond me. Makes you wonder how anything works for long.
I thought that the little disc on the heater may have been a type of thermostat.
Thanks for the education, If I live to be a hundred I will never be able to absorb it all.
Gary B
I had the air dryer put back on the coach t'day. While doing it I drained the air tanks, WOW, I had driven only about a hundred miles without a dryer and I was amazed by the amount of water that I got out of both the wet tank and both front tanks. I can see where your brake system would not last very long without a dryer. In cold weather I doubt you could run all day without a freeze up.
Very Informative. And YES I will do a better job of maintaining this dryer than I did in the past.
Gary B