I've finally built up the resolve to remove the 3M film from the front of my 2003 Foretravel. It is a shame for such a beautiful work of art to have that look marred by blistering peeling and dirty looking film.
I bought a steamer, the kind with a 16oz tank and a hose that leads to variousl nozzles and wands. Using that with the pistol grip nozzle and a plastic putty knife, I found the film very easy and safe to remove. It is not yet all off, but the worst parts are gone.
I hold the steam nozzle just ahead of the putty knife, and push the knife along and under the film. Very easy (but slow) going, with no sign at all of damage to the paint and clear coat. It did leave an adhesive residue that I removed easily with Citrusolve.
When the weather cools down here in Los Angeles, I'll get the rest off.
Then what??? Do I have new film put on, have the spray-on protector applied, or leave it as-is???
Great job. I would not reapply another film. My theory is that when the front gets stone chipped, I'll take it to FT or Xtreme and have them fill the stone chips and repaint the front. Your coach is similiar in color as ours and the edges of the film with the lighter color paint shows all the dirt and crap.
I just paid to have our removed and some paint touchups done. Not sure of the cost just yet.
I am not sure of the cost to have the film installed on a coach. I do know it seems to last approx. 3 years before starting to get nasty. I also know James will paint the whole front of the coach for approx $1,500.00. That is taking everything down to the fiberglass and having him do his magic. Fixing rock chips would be $300-$400.00.
Did the complete front on our 95 and repaired chips, etc on our 02.
FWIW
Be careful when you get to the white (cream) paint. According to James Stallings and crew, that is the color that is most apt to peel off with the 3M stuff. It is the only area that we had trouble with, so we believe him. We were very, very careful but there was just no way to escape it.
So far, all I have removed is in the white (cream) area around the left headlights. So far, no problems.
I had good success removing the film from the front cream area without any paint coming off.
Very slow process. Like watching paint dry ::)
Motorhome Front End Protection Systems (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=5539.msg22929#msg22929)
Tom,
I have an opinion that runs counter to many.
I've had good luck with the 3M Premium grade shields and I believe it's mostly in the care that I have taken with them.
At any rate, you might check out this thread:
Front Bra (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=11911.msg60999#msg60999)
FWIW,
Neal
Barry, after you removed your 3M film, did you replace it with anything or just a good coat of wax?
I had it replaced by a company in "City of Industry" Calif. I don't remember the brand he used (I think Diamond Shield) but said it was not what I originally had on it. Several years now & it still looks good.
I am still happy with it.
I am in the "leave well enough alone". I had James S. take my 3M shield off several years ago and the front still looks great. I sincerely believe that the plastic add-on protectors are bad case of suspenders AND belt syndrome.
Bumping to thank Barry and Tom for previously posting their experiences in removing the front film from their coaches. We are considering doing it in advance of taking the coach in for our headlight conversion (we work cheaper than most shops in Nac for the stuff we can do ourselves ;) ).
Fortunately we already own a small canister steamer (Eureka EnviroSteamer) with various nozzles. We also have a heat gun. Any preference for one over the other?
What about using Citrusolve as part of the initial removal (not in the steamer, but with a spray bottle)? Thoughts?
Michelle
Any preference for one over the other
Heat gun is not recommended. The shops I know all use steam and plastic razor blades. Since you are having the headlight conversion don't believe you need to be real careful. Get er done...
I like the steamer because the highest temperature possible is not too much above boiling water. A heat gun can get hot enough melt or burn anything around.
The citrusolve I used had no noticable effect on the adjacent (intact) 3M film. I see it as useful for cleanup or residual adhesive, but not the main task of softening and removing the film.