How can I reroute or extend to overflow away from the bulkhead? For some reason, when it overflows it runs down under the tanks and shows up in the bay with water manifold valves.
Thanks, Dick
Not same year, but should be same basic idea: Replacing a Water Heater (http://www.beamalarm.com/Documents/replacing_a_water_heater.htm)
I finally decided no more over flows.
I have a clear 1/2 inch diameter plastic tube that shows the height of fresh water. Plumbed in the open area next to the water manifold.
While filling I sit out there and watch the level.
No more over flows (if I don't fall asleep ;o)
best, paul
Dick. My coach is not much newer than yours and I have an auto shut off on the water fill. Could have been an in year upgrade but not likely, I think. Might be worth a call to James T.
Ditto - our build number is 31 after Dick's and we have the auto shut off. I can confirm it works and stops the fill about 1" from the top of the tank.
As to overflow extension/rerouting, here's a post by Barry B. showing the location of the overflow on his coach
Making sure the fresh water tank is completely full (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=10840.msg52255#msg52255)
If yours is in the same location maybe it will inspire some ideas.
Is it just overflowing on fill or are you getting some water when driving? If the latter, maybe it's just tank sloshing and running with a little less in the tank would be worth a try.
Michelle
Dick, ou coach # is 6039 with auto shut off... Haven't the slightest idea how you would fix your auto shut off, but believe that is your problem.. Will PM if I find the solution.
We use RO filtration for all water going into the fresh water tank. The system includes a float switch that shuts off the RO pump and water supply when the tank is full. The same switch could be used to sound an alarm for a full tank. A float switch could also be used to signal a low water condition.
We got the switch from RV Water Filter Store.
In cases where we must use direct fill rather than RO fill because of unusual conditions, I watch the fill process very carefully and don't go for a maximum fill.
In the pictures, it looks like the water heater was removed to reroute the fresh water overflow hose. Is this the case? If so, is it possible to reroute the fresh water overflow hose without removing the hot water heater?
The auto shut off works fine. But, like J.D. we are using an RO filtration system for all water going into the fresh water tank. We also have installed a float switch near the top of the water tank which will shut off the water supply when the tank is full enough to raise the float. It has worked well until the other night. I have checked all the connections and am checking it frequently.
I think the overflow hose is leaking where it goes through the bulkhead and instead of flowing out in front of the rear tires, at least some of the overflow is running down the inside of the bulkhead and under the holding tanks and across to the manobloc bay. The attached photo from Barry B shows the location of the overflow hose. I still have to open that panel and inspect it.
Check ALL the connections. Any leak, except black waste, in the bay could cause the symptoms you describe. You would know if black waste was leaking. Check the the float valve for leaks also.
If this issue is from overfilling, you could install a float switch a bit farther down on the tank.
You might check with an Aqua-Hot specialist regarding using RO water for all water in the system. I have been told that RO can be aggressive enough to erode copper pipes. My understanding is that Aqua-Hot uses copper coils to carry fresh water through the boiler. When the Kenetico dealer installed RO drinking water in our S&B home, he replaced the metal line to the 'fridge with plastic as a precaution against erosion by the pure water.
Rick at RV Water Filter Store might know whether you should add some soluble solids to protect the Aqua-Hot.
I think I found the leak causing water in the manifold bay when the tank is full and/or overflowing. The tank fitting that the overflow hose connects to is plastic welded into the top of the tank. Mine had a few pin hole leaks in that weld at about the 10 to 12 o'clock position (photo). After making it worse trying to repair it myself, I took it to a shop in the Portland, OR area for repair. Cost $50.
If you ever need to make a repair to this tank (at least for our model year), you need to know that it is made of LLDPE (Linear low-density polyethylene). There is welding rod for all types of plastics. The tank is manufactured by INCA PLASTICS MOLDING CO., INC, (909) 923-3235m in Ontario, CA.
Karma for the follow-up! We make note of anything another '03 owner has experienced.
(speaking of which - hit the HWH compressor output check valve quick connects with some soapy water when you get a chance. We replaced both while in Santa Fe; they had small leaks in the plastic "quick" area).
Michelle