Just got back from a short Trip and cleaned up the coach , now a couple days later I see oil down at the rear right wheel ,
coming out between inner and outer wheels. I think the axle seal went out. Who knows how to change that seal? Thanks Art
Stemco Hub Cap Window Kit (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/Stemco_hub_cap_window_kit.htm)
Barry,
The link is for a front axle seal. This is a rear axle seal leak.
Sorry, I have no first hand information on replacing a rear seal. Be sure they clean or replace the brake pads/shoes if oil soaked.
Brett
Am not used to Heath kit instructions, but I am sure you get the idea.
Simple, jack up wheel, chock wheels, release park brake, remove chrome cover, if it is full oil, maybe you can get lucky and torque the bolts on the axle hub. If not oily, remove wheels and replace seal. All simple if you have the tools
Dave removed wheel cover , Dry, Oil looks like it is coming from the seal. Art Can you give me a quick instruction? Pulling axle
is done on outer hub?
First Here is the Timpkin manual of setting bearings, keep this one.
Ok, chock wheels, break loose the wheel nuts, jack up, release park brake, remove wheels, remove brake caliper, unbolt nuts on end of axle (axle bolts), there should be two threaded holes in the axle flange to remove from hub, if not, get large sledge hammer and hit hrd in center of axle, do not hit the small axle bolts, hit in center.
Remove bearing lock, remove small bearing (outer bearing), pull hub off axle shaft, remove old seal, good time to check bearing for wear, damage etc. install new seal, check seal wear surface on axle shaft, should not need a repair sleeve, they start about 1 mil miles or so, but good to know where it is.
Reasemble back on axle tube, install small bearing, nut, set torque, then lock,
(Read the Timpkin instructions for proper long life bearings)
install axle, new gasket or black RTV, torque axle nuts to spec. install brake caliper, put wheels back and torque them, let jack down and have fun.
IF this is more than you would like to tackle, find a good truck shop.
One of my pet peves is mechanics that think they know everything, the Timpkin info might be something they would like to read. WHen I was trhying to find the CORRECT bearing adjustment, I ask ten mechanics, got 10 different answers, none near what Timpkin says. So why I dug into Timkin for the RIGHT info
FWIW, enjoy
Hello Art, Looks like inner axle seal. As Dave M said not complicated but everything you are going to be dealing with is HEAVY and very dirty. If your coach has disk brakes you will need to remove both rear tires, axle bolts, axle, brake caliper assy (it Will tilt out of the way with one bolt removed), and the hub and rotor assy. Unless you have the necessary large tools, jack, air compressor, 1" impact wrench, large hub nut socket, seal driver, and big torque wrench you might want to have a truck shop do it for you. You might as well have them do the other side as well.
Art
You might look into the 2-piece Stemco seals, one goes on the axle to "true" it being round and the other goes into the hub or wheel. You can get the seals from a truck supply place that the 18 wheelers go to. They might even rent or loan you the axle nut socket.
If you have access to a Harbor Freight store they sometimes have the big truck axle socket set, they are cheap but you don't use a lot of torque to either remove or replace the axle nut.
Oh and if the pads are oil soaked throw them away and replace the wheel set, they'll squeek like all get out in the future.
For what it's worth; Timken has an interactive tech series here: TechSeries User Login (http://www2.timken.com/testing/).
It requires registration, which is free. Here is what they say "The Timken Tech Series program is an interactive, multimedia tool that helps you learn about and get the most out of Timken's automotive and heavy duty products. This resource provides thorough explanations that are detailed and easy to follow."
Hubs, seals, and bearings oh my! This is new territory for me so I like these tutorials. This one includes PDF downloads and videos. What I've looked at so far seems more aimed at automotive rather than heavy duty. Attached is a screen shot showing the contents of the Hub section.
I took it to my neighbor's shop in Paso Robles Ca. Paso Robles Truck Center (PRTC) And now there saying the rotors are cracked, I could see small heat cracks , they showed me a couple that went all the way through. They are getting prices on rear rotors, They called Foretravel to get a cross reference , they said it was a Freightliner frame. Does anyone have thoughts on
the cracks and type of rotors thanks Art
Sorry to hear about the cracked rotors, but the amazing point is the Freightliner frame, I am certain Foretravel would love to hear that comment. It is my understanding that Foretravel builds their own frame/chassis since the 80's.. Maybe I am just wrong, surely there is someone here that knows the facts clearly.
Think taking to a shop is the good choice, now hope they do quality work, just keep eye on bearing temps for awhile after the job is done. Poor bearing installation will run warmer to hot, not good, Keep eye on it.
Cracked rotors could be a symptom of a sticking calipers. When the caliper sticks, rotor temps go way up and can cause seal failure from the high heat. Parking with hot rotors results in heat soak into the surrounding components when there is no air movement to help cool them.
For those who watch the NASCAR race at Bristol last weekend, you could see the bright glow from the rotors on the close ups into the turns. In the days of drum brakes, I would have to drive a couple of extra laps after the race just to cool the drums. If I didn't, the wheel cylinder cups and boots would catch fire about 30 seconds after I stopped.
Another good reason to take the big beast for a drive and exercise the brakes in the off season.
This might help. From a service invoice at I-State in Missoula, MT
TDA KIT15615PK Shoe Lining Kit (actually rotor pads) $164.31 x 2
TDA 3218K167 Rotor 183.77 x 2
Oshkosh in late 80's, and they were bought by Freightliner, as well as their own chassis during those years. I had an OREG - 1989 Oshkosh rear engine GAS (ford 460), blew it up..... Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
On my last FT (a 93 gv ored) I actually took on the replacement of the rear bearings/seals/ rotors and pads. It was not an easy thing for me but wanted to do it. Had help lifting things(very heavy) but learned a lot and the scary thing was when I had to set the bearings. I had that pin out about 5 times till I was sure they would not either seize or be too loose. My first drive to test them was scary too so I kept stopping to check the heat in rims etc. All worked out well and 2 yrs later I sold it but had done around 20k on it so knew it was good.
John
Art, I believe you have Arvin Meritor ADM series brakes. You can go the their web site, then go to LOD (literature on demand). You are looking for publication MM4M. I also think there is parts info on that web sit as well, and you can get information on the hub berring service specs also. Hope this helps.
Our 96 U295 had a leaky rear wheel seal. I didn't have the tools or place to do the job. Took it to Sterling truck center in Tampa (they have an RV repair shop, also), and it cost me $500. Don't know if that is an appropriate charge, since I have nothing to compare to, but at least, it gives you something for comparison.
There are several different styles of seals, a new one of which does not require an installation tool.
cost approx $60
a very heavy job but it can be done.
$300 is more in line,if you are not over the barrel.
I would suspect that someone lubricated the brake calipers and filled them with chassis grease and prevented the calipers from releasing after the brakes were applied which most likely heated up the discs and anything else in the vicinity (seals?) until the pads wore down enough to let everything cool off. Of course, that is just my guess.............
Regards,
Thanks George that was a good part # The rotors are $232.00 x2 that was through Meritor. Back on the road tomorrow.
Both seals will be replaced and 2 new rotors , Will find out price tomorrow ? Foretravel price on rotors $350 x 2 plus shipping.