Anyone ever remove the old Sharp Carousel II Convection microwave oven? How does it come out? I removed the bottom and undid the two screws in the back on the bottom that act as though they release something on the top. I pulled them down but still not lose. What am I missing?
Thanks for the help!
Dave
The wall mount bracket should have two slots in it that two "legs" on the back of the microwave are slid down into, supporting the microwave.. Have another man get hold of the unit with you and pick up on it sliding the legs out of the slots.Both men be ready for a load because the unit is heavy. This is how mine is mounted on my 89 280.
By the time the top of the microwave bumps the bottom of the cabinet, the legs should be out of the slots on the wall bracket. Again Gravy.... all hands be ready because she is a handfull.
On my 93 pulling down the tabs released two hooks holding the top. Foretravel put a screw in at the upper left hand corner of the grill on the front and another in the upper right hand side of the microwave. The left one you should be able to see, but the right one is inside the right cabinet and it is hard to see and get at. Also I found they had used long screws in the cabinet where the spice rack is and they also went into the microwave. When we got all four extra screws out it tilted down and you could lift it off the tabs in the back.
Why do you need to remove the microwave?
We have repaired our two problems ourselves: 1) Convection heating did not stop at set temperature. 2) internal fuse killed power.
Our Sharp microwave comes out by removing the two 'bolts' on bottom rear that 'lock' the release latches in their up position. Pulling down on these latches release a spring loaded latch that locks the microwave to the wall mount.
Use a flat screw driver to grab the bottom latch to pull it down.
The rear of the microwave sits on the bottom edge of the two-piece wall mount and when latches are released microwave will be able to be swung forward from the top.
Foretravel used two long screws through upper corners of microwave up into cabinet above microwave for extra fastening while coach bounces down the road.
Our power cord was fed through a hole in bottom shelf of the above cabinet and plugged into a regular wall outlet.
Cindy & I could lift the dead weight over the bottom lip, but it was very heavy. Have a piece of cardboard on counter to sit the microwave on. We also put wall protection to prevent scratching the wall when removing and installing microwave. Cover comes off with a few back and side screws.
Barry, Thanks for the input. The wife wants to have a new one and this one does not have power to the circuit board for the panel. I think it might be just a fuse but we have a new one here already and if that keeps her happy we are all happy. Nothing wrong with a few upgrades before we hit the road fulltime. Hope to see some of you out there in the next few months.
Thanks again,
Dave
Dave you have obviously learned the key to a happy marriage. A happy wife is a happy life. That is what my wife has taught me over the past 20 years.... :))
Is the new one a Sharp? Sharp microwaves work better when there is a wall right next to the hinge side.
You will find the new sharp uses a new two piece wall mount that is fastened to the wall with MANY screws. I assume the wall is reinforced inside with a wood panel specifically placed for microwave mounting. Both parts have to be exactly level with each other. New microwave uses two long angled bolts that go in from bottom forward corners into the wall mount. You may have to drill a few more holes in mount to be sure you have enough attachment points for a microwave that bounces down the road. Also put a few corner screws into the cabinet for additional support.
Enjoy, we looked a new Sharps, but found we could fix ours for $20 and I didn't have to deal with new wall mounts.
Barry
Our Sharp Carousel went bad a couple of days ago and I tried to find a fuse for it but it must be inside somewhere. How does one get to it if there is one? Also, is there a direct replacement for it if it is beyond repair? Thank you and have a great day ---- Fritz
Fritz,
I'm not sure about your vintage coach, but mine has a spike protector box at the 120 volt outlet. If that goes out, you're microwave will appear dead - no fan or light either. I presume you also have checked the regular and inverter panel's circuit breakers. Anything else not working?
Dave,
I took the two exhaust fan screen off the bottom of mine and found two gold color levers, one each side on the back, that had screws holding them in place. It looks like if you remove the screws the levers can be pulled down to release the oven. Might be a handful though. Don't forget to unplug it first as the cord may not be long enough.
If your Sharp Carousel II Convection oven has the probe would you like to sell it? Mine is lacking the probe, but otherwise work fine.
I am also looking for a manual if anyone has one. I think I've got it figured out, but a manual would be helpful.
If it's a Sharp: http://www.sharpusa.com/CustomerSupport/ProductDownloads.aspx (http://www.sharpusa.com/CustomerSupport/ProductDownloads.aspx)
Thanks John, but they don't have a manual for my model R-1810A. Most likely because it's a 1987 model.
there is a fuse on the front inside and the outer front cover has to come off. I know someone has posted on this fuse.
JohnH
Well, I have power to the unit, the surge protector works well, the internal fuse is good and I plugged it into shore power just to check it. Looks like the toaster is toast!! Removing it doesn't look too bad, just heavy as mentioned.
Dave ---- Sorry, no probe
It appears that replacement units are available from several places, sooooo here we go! Have a great day ---- Fritz
We think that replacing Sharp with a new Sharp convection is our best choice. If oven hinge is next to a wall, the Sharp has an advantage because its hinge is not at the edge of the oven and the door handle does not stick out into the room and will not hit a side wall.
Our Sharp has two wall latches that need to be pulled down to release oven from wall bracket, after removing round locking bolts. Our oven has two extra Foretravel installed screws into the top cabinet under the front top.
Current Sharp models uses a different wall bracket, so new ovens cannot re-use older model wall brackets.
whatever you replace it with, make sure the door is hinged such that it will open being flush with the sidewall. I had to uninstall one, and return it when I realized it would only open a fraction.
Thank you folks, your input is very helpful and will no doubt keep me from making a bad mistake. Thanks again and have a great day ---- Fritz
Follow up ---- I replaced the old oven with a new Sharp Carousel model R-1875-T. It fit the existing space well except for a gap at the top of about 1". The electric cord comes out of the top and I chose to not drill a new hole for it and use the existing hole. If you dont want the gap at the top then you would have to manage the cord some way. I reinstalled the screws in the side in the spice cabinet and storage cabinet on the other side. It looks nice, sort of "sharp" looking if you dont mind a pun! Dont use any of the mounting hardware, it is for a 2 x 4 wall and wont work on the wall behind the stove. I didn't use the mounting templates although they may be alright in some cases. Have a great day ---- Fritz