My neighbor has just gone full time and on the way out of town gave me a new Xantrex C-40 controller with the digital readout and extra mounting panels. I am wondering if anyone has any experience with this controller and where they mounted it in their GV? Possible under the bed with the other electronics? I move my PV panel around to the best sunny location and am considering a 400 watt wind generator also. Thought I would mount the display remote from the controller.
I currently use two separate C-40 units. One on the motorhome and one on my trailer. They are good, tough units and do what is needed.
I suggest installing the controller as close as you can to the batteries without having the controller in the same compartment as the batteries. Controllers do not like the smell from batteries.
Many people run the power leads from the solar panels down through the refrigerator vent and a lot will depend on the layout of your rig. My wind generator is mounted on my trailer and is set up to be able to charge either the motorhome OR the trailer batteries.
The monitor panel can be mounted any place you can run the yellow CAT5 cable. It is a good idea to place it where you can see it most of the time to monitor it and the batteries. It will assist you in not over using the capacity.
I would suggest that an investment of some additional panels (prices are down) and placing them on the motorhome roof permanently with the capability to raise them. Ultimately panels on the ground end up being destroyed by one means or another. Ask about it at Quartzsite. Check panel prices at Lowest Prices in Solar Panels, Systems & Inverters (http://www.sunelec.com)
Good luck with your project and electrics. It is great to be independent of the grid.
Regards,
Yes, I liked the idea of a portable panel but the wind blew it over and the glass cracked in a thousand places. It still works but charge the tractor with it now. Bought another and hope I have learned my lesson. I like being able to peak it with a digital voltmeter but think you are right with it on top of the rig. Prices have come down so may add a couple of more.
Was also thinking about a 400 watt wind generator. Nice to be able to charge in the night. How often do you get winds in Quartzsite or other CGs to drive one?
Thought I would mount the C-40 under the bed next to the other electronics. Came with several face plates and the remote indicator so looking tomorrow for somewhere good eye level to mount the remote indicator.
Have mounted a couple of digital voltmeters where the old CRT for the AUDIT was. One for the engine, other house. They work great. About $9/each out of HK. I keep them on while driving and with shore power, I can tell when charger goes to float. They found a couple of major flaws almost instantly. Boost solenoid was stuck ON and the isolator had been changed by the previous owner and the ignition solenoid cable reconnected to house instead of engine battery. Easy mistake to make if cables not marked during R&R.
Advice please. Changing out all florescent lights to LED strips @120 LEDs/meter. So, which looks best, warm at about 3100K or white at 6000K? About half way through the change over.
Thanks for the reply and in advance for advice.
Pierce
Warm!!!!!! Typical incandescents are around 2700K.
IMHO 6000K will make your teeth hurt (cool white, will remind you of old-fashioned fluorescent lighting and a dentist's office). We replaced our standard fluorescent tubes with warm white ones from Lowes a couple of years ago - much more pleasant light.
Michelle
I have to agree with Michelle about the COOL White. I replaced all of mine with "WARM".
Warm it is. Glad I didn't order yet.
Thanks
Pierce
For someone willing to go 'all in' - Sun Electronics is selling the Evergreen 210W 18V panels for 331.00 ea, - minimum 4. That's 840 watts for 1300 bucks. Add the Outback controller, cabling etc and for about 2 grand you will push 35-50 amps...
Be sure to check the background on Evergreen solar panels as the company is or already has gone out of business. And there may not be a company to stand behind the warranty.
Our May 2011 purchase of two Kyocera 135 watt solar panels, model KD135SX-UPU cost $332.05 each plus $111.85 UPS Freight, total $776, from Affordable Solar 800-810-9939.
Pierce
Got a question about the voltage displays you mounted where the old monitor was. They look really nice. Where did you say you got them? I read the complete post but did not see any reference to who "HK" is.
Thanks
Don,
Was in a hurry so didn't spell out Hong Kong. Could have been Herry Kerry so apologies all around.
Meters are very nice and both read within .04 of my digital VOM (also China). The only pitfall is to make sure they have a 12V supply instead of 5 Volts as some are used in an industrial application. Using below address gets you to the correct one. They also have to be on a off/on switch as they will use a little juice so I just used one of the switches on the old Audit panel. EZ to find battery voltage for both house and engine. Ground can come off of ignition solenoid case or you can go further to the left for all the grounds. Since the leads are fairly short, I used a Euro style terminal strip (Radio Shack) to bring ground and 12V in, mounted it on the aluminum dash support. Came off of fuse side of both 12V sources. Naturally, meters could be mounted almost anywhere. I just wanted to have them where I could keep an eye on them. The voltage readings become second nature when driving and the brain picks up abnormal readings quickly. Here is the site, wiring diagram is on the ebay site down the page a little. Figure 10 to 14 days delivery. This one reads up to 20V and uses a 12 Volt supply:
3 1/2 12v Digital Red LED 20V DC Volt panel meter New | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-1-2-12v-Digital-Red-LED-20V-DC-Volt-panel-meter-New-/120773565284?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1eaa5b64#ht_2872wt_1030)
They are also great for figuring what accessory comes off what battery and if wired according to factory schematic. For example, just turn on the radio and the battery supplying juice shows it instantly.
This site is mainland not HK but same product and about same price.
Bill Chaplin made me large blowups of a couple of pages of the electrical system. I am going to copy all the schematics for the electrical pages and will see if I can't make them available for my cost plus mailing. They are house plan size and make figuring electrical problems out a thousand times easier than trying to decipher the small pages in the manual.
Email with any questions.
Pierce
Pierce, I have zero electrical knowledge so this may be a dummmmm question. The meter shown on Ebay... Does it come with its own power supply ? Or do you have to come up with your own ?
Can I use this meter by simply wiring hot and ground to it or is a separate power supply required ? Same question , maybe easier to answer.
Thanks
Gary B
Gary,
No, no power supply needed. I just brought 12V to one side of the old Audit switch with the other side going to the electronic side of the units. When I flip the switch, both meters get +12V to the electronics side (not the readout side/display) of the meter. Have to be able to shut off that power or the red leds would be on all the time. Chassis ground went to the other connections that need to be grounded. I will pull one, take a photo and post. I took a fine tipped felt pen and marked the outside so I would remember connections as I wired it.
Heading out of the house now but will post photo tomorrow. One (or two) picture is worth a thousand words.
I first ordered the almost identical unit that needed 5 volts for the electronics. Still bitter about the $8 loss.
Pierce
Thanks Pierce. Great information and great link to the components.
Thanks Pierce, that clears it up. Guess I was thinking of a power supply like that on our Audit systems.
Gary B
Here are a couple of photos of the voltmeter showing how I marked it as wires are all the same color. Also schematic. I have added arrows showing source, etc.
You may extend the wires using butt splices. Don't just crimp but use a Radio Shack type crimping tool so the wire won't pull out later. Different colors may help identify as you install. Soldering with shrink tubing good if you have time.
You may want to use alligator clips on a temporary basis to make sure you have it right before you make the final connections.
Wire #1 should be to constant 12V so you can power meters without turning the key on. It MUST also have a switch between the source and the meter to turn the meter on. I used the old Audit switch as an on/off switch.
Wire #3 goes to the battery you want to see voltage on.
Wires #2 & #5 on both meters go to common ground.
Use fuses on +12V so no smoke under dash later on.
I used a label tape under the dash so I could remember which was engine bat, house bat. Just lift dash top to read.
Coming attractions: Blueprint sized electrical schematics from factory drawings for about $3.25 (my cost) each for U280 & U300. Also photos of the actual electrical component location so schematic can be compared to real world location.
Be careful what LED's you invest in as there are lots of differences. Test a few before ordering a LOT.
A good 0-20 volt meter can be purchased off of Ebay by searching "Blue LCD Digital Voltage Volt Meter Voltmeter Panel 20V" works off of the source voltage and a nice blue back light.
Regards,
Jon,
Even cheaper at $5 delivered!!! Can't see in the ebay photos if it has an enclosure. Sort of looks open behind the face. I do like the two wires but will need two switches (one for each) to shut them off. Could use the altimeter switch for the second.
Found a two wire red LED version of the one I posted at Red DC 7V-30V Volt Panel Meter Doesn't Require A Power | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-DC-7V-30V-Volt-Panel-Meter-Doesnt-Require-Power-/350489330019?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519acac163) Also will need two switches (unless dbl pole switch is installed)
They make matching OAT (outside temperature) digital readouts for about the same price. Not enough room in my small panel to install it so may install mine down toward the bottom of the instrument panel and run the probe through the forward bulkhead to get readings. Always wondering how hot or cold it is outside. Here is the red LED version with switchable C/F readings: Digital LED Thermometer Temperature Meter Gauge F/C | eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/Digital-LED-Thermometer-Temperature-Meter-Gauge-F-C-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem519ad023c4QQitemZ350489682884QQptZLHQ5fDefaultDomainQ5f0)
Imagine what something by Fluke would cost.
In a previous posting there was a mention of inexpensive Evergreen solar panels on the market and this is why I would not purchase them.
A Third Solar Company Files for Bankruptcy, By REUTERS September 6, 2011
Solyndra's bankruptcy filing followed similar filings by Evergreen Solar and SpectraWatt, a private company that was backed by the Intel Corporation.