99 320
The gasket between the double pane bedroom windows has separated on the 99 I'm looking at? Anyone know the cost of replacement for bedroom windows? Same thing for the sliding window on both sides. The stationary windows are OK. Thanks.
jor
Hi JOR,
If you take a look at the RV Fog Doctor page, RV Fog Doctor - Repairing Fogged, Streaked and Discolored RV Windows (http://www.Rvfogdr.com) , they have a window rebuild service. Price is very reasonable. I talked with them. They can remove the nasty black "snack" seal problem most of the Creative windows have. Most of our era coaches have these windows. They have been out of business for a few years.
There are a few other similar services available. One is in Florida, one in the Northwest.
Raymond
Thanks, Raymond. Just checked them and others. Doesn't sound bad at all.
jor
I have heard of many with the same problem with Creative windows.
When I purchased my '98 U295 ALL of the windows had "creeping seals". I met Mike Howard from Duncan Systems at the rally in Perry, Georgia and he agreed to repair the windows at a discount price of $ 175 each. When I returned home to Lakeland FL., he came to our home removed the windows, covered the openings and returned in 2 days to install them repaired. He noted that the normal price is $ 275 each. Good job at a great price.
I would search around for someone who will do a similar job.
There was a recent post on this. I had same issue. Cosmetic only in my c ase, windows were fine. Very common. There are three places in the country that remove and fix the windows at lower cost.
For a repair estimate, call Suncoast Windows in Hudson FL., if you find the post there are others in different parts of othe world.
James Stalllings at Xtreme paint and graphics in Nacogdoches TX can give you an idea on the cost er window to replace.
T
I have had 2 windows re done because of seals creeping. They cost $200 each and I watched them do it. I sourced the latest seal and caulking from their pkts used and bought my own from the window supply wholesaler. The sealed pkt of insert was $50 for 66ft. Enough to do 4 or 5 windows. The caoulking is $15 a tube and it is a simple job to do. You just have to make sure the inner glass faces are really clean and to do that I bought the spray cleaner the glass shops use.. I figure it will take me about 3 hrs to do each one (that is take out, fix and put back) I took the others out and back in. My estimated cost is around $15 or so per window !! This is not Brain surgery and in my opinion is one hell of a way to make a good days pay for the shop.
John
John,
Can you tell us the specs for the seal, caulking and glass cleaner, and the source you have found?
It would sure be helpful if you could make a step-by-step photo tutorial.
I will put the info online in the morning. A step by step tutorial is a bit tough but I will do my best, then
John
OK now lets see what you need.
The seal is made in States and I got mine thru a local company after searching online at http://www.edgetechig.com/ (http://www.edgetechig.com/) . I will post a picture at the end of all products. This is the same stuff the window people used on mine and all seems good. The cleaner is made by SIKA and the black glass edge sealer is a DOW product called -Betaseal-U418.
First remove window (obviously) then using a clean flat worksurface mark with masking tape each window position in the frame and also back to back glass panels. This is so you do not mix pieces up on refit.
There are a couple of aluminum pieces on side of window that hold frame together so take this apart so you can take out glass panels. Put this panel (do one at a time) on something soft as you do not want to break it. Take a sharpish spatula (or whatever) and seperate the glass from seal making sure you do not scratch the glass. Once seal is all off lay each piece with the inside face up and clean all trace of seal. Then use the window cleaner to clean with a soft cotton cloth untill you are sure there are no streaks (view from different angles). Open up the sealed pkg of Soft seal after measuring approx how much you need to go around window-plus a bit.Re-seal the package to keep moisture out. You will find there is a blue tape on seal to protect the sticky sides-carefully place the seal on the glass about an 1/8" in from edge and with foam facing into centre of window. When you get to the join of seal make sure you do a clean square cut so faces abutt each other. Then put a peice of wood or!! material against two edges of glass so you have a guide to make sure the glass edges line up with each other and carefully lay it on top of the taped piece. Use clean gloves if you need and hold only by the outside edges, for obvious reasons. Press down all around. Next job is to use the caulking/urethane. Place the glass on something that will lift it up off the table so you can work all the way around the edge in comfort as this step can get messy. Put a small bead all around that will completely fill the 1/8 gap and do not worry if it drips down some. Follow the curing instruction and then it is easy to get a sharp knife to trim all excess caulk from edge to make it nice and square.. Move that one to a safe place and do the next one. I would leave it overnight to cure. Once you have done them then just re-install them into frame using the markings you put on at beginning.
Cleanliness and patience is all it takes and it can be a nice saving for you.
John,
Now if we could only help you with your back. ^.^d
Thanks John, sounds like a winter job down in Yuma.
At Suncoast they use a machine to apply the seal while setting and maintaining the proper spacing between glass pieces. My driver's seat window had to be redone because the completed window was too thick to slide easily once installed.