Foretravel Owners' Forum

Tys, you will LOVE the 2100XC!  Our '03 was plumbed for a machine, but none installed.  We had Dave and his crew in FOT renovations (they are incredibly talented and skilled) install our 2100XC and have been very pleased.

Don't know if you are familiar with this type of machine (washer/dryer combo) from your Class C full-timing days.  If not, it is much different than your home machine, and one shouldn't expect the same type of performance.  I do believe that many of the negative comments about using a washer/dryer combo stem from having different expectations than the machine is able to produce.  It really does require a different mind set, and a little more manipulation and attention than machines at home.

I'll assume you haven't used one of these machines before - if so, no need to read further, but perhaps someone else might find this useful.... so here's my story.

An example of a typical approach to laundry (and don't tell George I'm telling this story! :D ) are George's National Park t-shirts (ie, his full-timing wardrobe ;) ).  I put 6-8 t-shirts (no less - more is better, up to 8 or 9) in the machine.  In addition to the 1.5 TBS of liquid HE All, I use three "squirts" of Downy (I use an empty handsoap dispenser for the fabric softener, so there's no need to measure).  Even towels get 1 squirt of Downy (doesn't affect their absorbency) in the dispenser.  Fabric softener is important so that clothes don't adhere to the sides of the drum after the water extraction/spinning cycle, resulting in significant wrinkling.  Just set the machine to wash only (not the combo wash AND dry cycle).... when washed, take the clothes out and fold them (yep... fold each t-shirt in half, and then in thirds).  Put the stacked/folded laundry back into the drum (I like to add two of those little dryer balls you can find at a Bed Bath & Beyond) - and set the shirts for 40 minutes on cotton dry cycle.  When finished, DO NOT let them sit in the machine - IMMEDIATELY take them out one at a time and lay them on the bed, quickly smoothing with your hands.  Put the next one on top, smooth, and repeat until you have a pancake stack of t-shirts.  They will still have a touch of dampness (which you want - this will help minimize/reduce wrinkling).  Place on hangers, and hang them from the overhead cabinet knobs (and/or the edge of the ceiling insert) until dry.  Yes, the bedroom looks like you are taking in laundry for a living, but this method really works.  I don't have to iron, and George doesn't look like he slept in his t-shirt!

If you want to "study ahead," here is a link to the owner's manual:  http://www.splendide.com/WD2100XC_IOM.pdf (http://www.splendide.com/WD2100XC_IOM.pdf)

Lastly, I also recommend this little book - it was written before the 2100XC model was developed (when the machines had a smaller capacity and a few less features), but the author's insights, hints, and tips, make this a worthwhile read.  She and her husband are full-timers, and have written books and lecture on the lifestyle (and there is no relation to the Splendide company).  It's a little $9 paperback book called "Wrinkle-Free RV Laundry":  RV bookstore - the world's largest online RV bookstore (http://rvbookstore.com/shop/detail.aspx?p=986&m=2)

Happy laundering!  :))

PS TO MODS:  This post may need to be broken out into a new topic - thanks!

Broken out as its own topic, and another tip to add - instructions for the periodic maintenance flush that they don't tell you about in the manual.

Splendide 2100XC "maintenance flush" procedure (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=12521.0)

Also, when installing, wrapping the fill and drain hoses in foam pipe insulation sleeves (those things that look like pool noodles) can cut down on noise.

Michelle

Thanks for the tips, Pat and Michelle...they make a lot of sense and I can't wait to try them out.

Our Splendide was delivered tonight but unfortunately the bottom cover plate was caved in. There doesn't seem to be any damage to the actual unit so I will call camping world in the morning and ask for a replacement. We will also test it's functioning before installing it in the RV.

We still need to order a vent kit and a drip pan. Does Foretravel have special dryer vents available that we could order from them or are the ones they sell at camping world adequate? Any suggestions about drip pans?

It's wonderful to have so many experienced Foretravel owners willing to give advice, suggestions and support as we embark on this adventure. It certainly makes things easier and a lot more fun!

Tys

Tys, when we had FOT do the install, they asked if we wanted a chrome vent or fiberglass painted to match.  We opted for the latter - and they did a great job (see image below).  It may be that the FOT Parts Dept sells the chrome vent - here's the number 800.955.6226, extension 154, 161, or 173 - or 0.

As to a drip pan, it doesn't look like one was installed (but I can't really tell... when I pull back the rug in front of the unit, there is a wood strip which is screwed down to the floor which, I assume, is to keep the unit from moving).  We don't recall seeing a drip pan when it was installed.  Michelle... did you and Steve have one installed?  Here is the Splendide link to accessories (scroll to the bottom), and there is a drip pan available:  Splendide Laundry Centers - Installation Accessories (http://www.splendide.com/accessories.htm)

Hopefully, CW can take care of the shipping damage - sorry to hear about that!  >:(

Your vent looks awesome, Pat! I would prefer a paintable one rather than chrome as we plan to eventually remove the fading decals and paint instead.

As to the shipping damage, when Don was inspecting the unit more closely tonight, he noticed the frame is also bent in one corner so we will have to send the unit back and ask for a replacement. Hopefully CW will be cooperative.

Tys

Save ALL the packing material. File a report with the freight co and CW as soon as possible.

I totally affirm Pat's tips.  The first time I washed and dried in our Splendide, I thought, "oh, no!  This is NOT going to work."  All the clothes were baked onto the drum and thoroughly wrinkled.  Through researching, I discovered all of Pat's tips, and now I love my Splendide. 

Thanks, Suzanne (or is Jeff in charge of laundry?)!  It also took me awhile to discover how to love my Splendide after the first wrinkled load... so I thought I'd put it all together and save a new Splendide owner all that "Googling" time!  :))

Does anyone else have trouble with the Splendide when doing a load of heavy towels? Ours rocks the whole coach until the load evens out. When it happens both Dori and I make a dash  to the washer to shut it down but it evens out before either of us gets there. The shaking is so violent it has shaken off one of the electrical connections in the back which causes it to not spin at all.

Removing all the crap we have stored in the closet and the cedar paneling and the shelf and wrangling the washer to lean it out of the closet to get access to the back is a major PIA! The second time I did some redneck engineering and used a tie wrap to hold the connector on.

Dori is doing smaller loads now to prevent the shake rattle and roll but isn't happy about it since the washer is pretty small to begin with.

Ours is the older 2000W IIRC. It's 20 years old but still runs like a champ.

BTW: someone in the Fore Campground shared the Wrinkle-Free RV Laundry book with us. It did have some good tips. Also Pat thanks for sharing your tips!

see ya
ken

On Wednesday, September 14, 2011, kenhat <kenhat92@gmail.com> wrote:

I did have the issue with the "out of balance" scariness doing towels, but I usually was able to stop it and rearrange things pretty fast. I was never comfortable moving too far from the washer while it was operating.  As far as drying things without wrinkles ... I was able to read the booklet Patricia mentions when she kindly lent it to me one afternoon.  I was a great deal of common sense and a few hints that were just magic. They finally let me "make friends" with my Splendide, as I was not really keen on it for a good while.  I folded my things a bit differently than Patricia does ... Jeans and towels in half north/south and then again at the equator (does that make sense?), Tshirts the same way. Small things like socks and undies are not much of a problem. I layered the items and loosely rolled them with the larger items on the outside, like a giant burrito. They were roughly the depth of the drum and were able to loosen slightly as the dryer spins, but do not bunch up. I only had to hang Tshirts briefly, because they were pretty dry. Jeans might take longer. This method worked with sheets (keeping the top sheet nicely smooth), "good clothes" , play clothes, etc. It is not time consuming at all, you just fold your stuff at a different time in the process.  I now have a coach without a machine and I have to say that I do not miss it. I am just as happy using laundry facilities wherever we are and having the extra storage. But that is just me, I guess.

The out of balance problem is common in soft mount laundry equipment. ^.^d

Ken,

How large is the load of towels you're trying to do?  The most I do in our 2100XC is 2 bath towels and 3 hand towels and I do get some vibration (but not what I'd call "rocking"). 

You might want to check the level of the machine and make sure it's sitting solidly on its own, too.  I'm pretty sure the front legs are adjustable.

Michelle

Edited to add - links to the 802M Service/Training Manual and the 2100XC Service/Training Manual (need to find the one for the 2000 series...)

That is the same quantity I put into our 2100XC, and we also get some vibration - but no "rocking."  Also, I believe your 2000 capacity is less than the 2100XC (XC = "extra capacity").  So, perhaps overloading of towels could be the cause?

802M and 2000S are 10 lbs wash, 6 lbs dry

2100XC is 15 lbs wash, 11 lbs dry

Current Ariston stackables are 15 lbs ARXL129WSP washer, 13 lbs TVM63X dryer; older ones were less.

-M

We get no rocking.  Maybe a little vibration.  Our unit is so tightly fit between the two boards on either side at the bottom that it was all we could do to push it back in during installation.  I think that is why ours is so steady.  I'm really glad I did not buy the hold-down kit from Camping World the guy told me I would need.

Dori says she was doing 4 towels. Sounds like we exceeded this ride's capacity. :)

Thanks for the replies.

see ya
ken

I had a front loading Maytag for years in my "stick house". There is less chance of vibration with a larger load ... things can't get clumped to one side of the barrel. Is it ONLY with towels?? Or do regular clothes cause the same sort of issue?

Camping World is sending us a new unit and  picking up the damaged one. Very impressed with their service so far...will keep you posted!

Meanwhile Don is working hard on overcoming the obstacle of a frame crosspiece right where the dryer vent opening is, so can't drill directly back from there. Not sure yet how it's going to work but I'm confident he'll come up with a workable solution. Once he does, he'll post it on the forum. :)

Tys

Tys,

Our Splendide is vented with flex exhaust, so you don't have to have the exterior vent directly line of sight from the machine's exhaust outlet.

Looking down from the top:



Michelle

Thanks for the pic! Looks like you might have a bit more clearance in your coach than we do, Michelle...is yours the 2000 model or the 2100?  I think there is only about an inch between the Splendide and the wall in ours, maybe because the coach was designed to hold the older model.

Tys

Tys,

Our coach originally had the 2000 model in that space.  We replaced it with the 2100XC in 2009 (because of the increased capacity of the newer model).

Michelle

Don,

On my 1996 uni, there is maybe 1/8" of clearance between the door handle on the 2100XC and the inside of the closet door.  I used no vent kit other than the outside cover, in fact the plastic vent "snout" actually inserts into the drilled hole in wall.  I lined the perimeter of the drilled hole with thin aluminum cut from the vent kit I purchased and didn't need.

If yours is the same, and the bar is in the way as mine was, you have three options.  Lower the machine, raise it, or, as I inadvertently was forced to do, use slightly offset, connected drilled holes on inside and outside.  The offset has caused no problems, I looked at vent square inches from dryer and thru offset.  I did fab a thin alum shield to protect structural bar from damp dryer exhaust. I'll offer you a few tips:

Be sure and line the machine up, right and left, with the closet door opening so you can tilt it forward and access the back of machine without removing from closet.  Once again, this was a very close tolerance fit. Where you drill your vent hole will set this location. I can tilt my machine forward and out of closet.  Setting it back down the vent "snout" kind of snaps into the drilled hole in wall.  The drilled hole is 1/8" larger than od of dryer snout.  The vent hole needs to be D.N.O. accurate. 

A $7.00 harbor freight dolly (wooden frame with four swiveling casters on it) makes it easy to maneuver the washer through coach and also is about the right height to line washer up with raised sill of closet.  I don't normally recommend HF but this is an appropriate level of tech for them to sell in the US.

I maneuvered the washer into coach easily by myself by backing my pickup truck up, putting washer on dolly, rolling into coach over ramp between truck and coach.  It wold be easier to just lift it in with a couple guys, tho. 

If you're going to do the offset hole trick, I'd strongly consider removing feet completely from washer to more closely align holes.  Don't think lowering the floor is a good option when you consider the hernia you'll potentially accumulate trying to do a sumo lift on the washer when you need to remove.  Raising it would certainly work.

Finally, you can easily remove the top of washer, two screws.  From there you can marvel at the ingenuity of this neat little device and also remove the concrete counterweight.  It's about 1/3 of the weight of the washer and makes moving, shifting replacing much easier on yourself and adjacent casework.  If I recall correctly four hex head bolts remove it. 

It's worth it.  My wife loves having the splendide and I like the slick workings of it.

BTW, this machine is used in cruising boats quite a bit.  It is typically installed by removing feet and bolting to floor (ahem sole.)  It would probably eliminate a fair amount of operational vibration, prevent it from flying out of closet during a mishap, but what a pain to accomplish. 
 

Chuck

Chuck,

Thanks for the detailed info! I am wondering if your cabinet is the same depth as ours. As I understand it, your 2100XC is pushed back so that the plastic 4" vent outlet is actually inserted into the inside hole (4 1/8"?) at the back of of your cabinet, and that arrangement leaves you with just an eigth inch clearnce between the door grip and the back side of the louvered doors. Do I have that right? Our wardrobe closet is 24" on the nose to the front of the face frame, leaving 23 1/4" from the back of the face frame to the back wall. How deep is your cabinet? The 2100XC is 22 5/8" including the door handle and the vent. By my calculations, that would leave me an 1 3/8" to work with. I am also considering furing out the face frame for the vented doors to create more depth, but I won't do that until I figure out the venting. I am leaning towards doing an offset mainfold (periscope) which is 2" deep. The plastic vent on the dryer would insert into that. It will be very close, but maybe just doable. I have to wait for Camping World to come and pickup the one they damaged in shipping and bring me a new one before I take into the coach to size it up properly. I thought about the options of lowering it as well as raising it to miss the brace, but even with the false floor removed, the brace still hits the top part of the vent. I would have to rebuild the top part of the lower cabinet to raise it high enough to miss it. I might yet do that, but I don't want to give up any storage without a fight! It would likely be easier just to extend the face frame and effectively deeping the cabinet by an inch or so. I don't like the idea of the brace being in the flow, but I applaud the ingenuity of your solution and I definitely haven't ruled that out either. I am attaching a picture which hopefully shows the bracing pattern within the cabinet. Maybe that will help somebody else contemplating this project...

Where did you get you get your vent kit? I have been looking at the various options, and the external hood on most of them is hideous and cheap looking, but not necessarily cheap in price! The plastic chrome one from Splendide is over $50. There is nothing else that is chrome on the coach, other than the kitchen faucet! I was hoping for a nice fiberglass on in white...

Don