I do not have the flourescent under counter lights ( I did in the "old" 93 GV) but now they are the individual puck lites and to solve some of the problem with battery usage (as I am trying to go solar dependant) I changed the switches to dimmer ones as the lights are very bright even at 10 watts each. It is a big change as far as watts/amps are concerned and the units are only $25 each so thought I would try that first and so far so good. it has cut power use to 1/4 of what it was. What with this and the extra inverter of 1000watt true sine for all of up front usage at night I hope the batteries get a break this winter! I have ordered 2 more 150 watt panels from AM solar I will pick up on the way south so that will be 600watts with 675 amp hr of AGM Lifelines it will be interesting to see what happens for 3 months.
John
Pierce can you give some details of what you are replacing with? Replacing the fluorescents is on my todo list.
see ya
ken
Ken,
Have been gradually changing out everything to LEDs. Never liked the cold florescent color. Glad I listened to forum advice on going with 2700K warm white. THANKS AGAIN!!! Guys never have good taste.
OK, have changed reading lights in the back, replaced the big bulb with shade as you enter the coach with warm white spot for reading. Added a warm spot on the opposite side, also for reading. Driver and passenger flex LED lights have also be added.
Just waiting now for a couple of 5 meter rolls of 8mm wide adhesive backed 120 LEDs per meter in warm white. The dimmers have already arrived along with the connectors for the ends. You can cut the strip every three LEDs so custom sizes are easy. Using the stock metal housing with the stock clear lens. My only worry now is will one strip be enough or should I go with two strips next to each other. This is why I ordered 120 per meter rather than 60. Will order extra clear lens to cut and fit where the starter ballast was in the old one so it will be clear lens the whole length. Here is the ebay site with the LEDs: eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & (http://www.ebay.com/itm/160556977684?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649) Shows how to cut, specs, etc. $27.96 each roll delivered.
Heading south for a week but will post a DIY page with photos, sources for the rolls of LEDs, extra lens, etc. when I get back. Dimmers are small and have RF (radio frequency) remotes so they can go in the cabinets. Should be easy to change the mood.
Cost will be less than $100 for the three under cabinet in the main salon and the two in the rear stateroom unless I have to double up the strips. That includes connectors, 2 dimmers, two rolls of LEDs USPS delivered from Hong Kong or Mainland China. The spots were about $6/each delivered.
Have been very happy so far and pretty optimistic about the end result. The overheads are the next change over.
They do make 1cm wide LED strips but I have not been able to find a source for the end connectors yet.
Thanks for the links and looking forward to seeing the end result. Quick question, you mention a dimmer switch, will you have to have a dimmer for EACH set of lights? We have 5 separate lights we'd like to replace with LED's but I really do not want to have 5 different dimmer's installed. I was hoping I could just use the same switch as before.
Yes to the warm white color, now just looking for someone who has "Been there, Done that" and can give some detailed instructions!
Pierce,
Keep us posted on the longevity of the inexpensive LED strip lighting. I see from the eBay ad that those are rated as "12V". Steve had researched LEDs a while back (when we were replacing our halogen puck light bulbs) and there was warning from several sources that the battery/inverter/charger environment of an RV or boat, which results in non-constant voltage, would significantly shorten the life of "cheap" LED bulb replacements. The recommendation was to look for constant current driver technology, which would usually mean LED replacements having a voltage range spec'd (say, 8-20 Vdc) rather than the single 12 Vdc spec. Of course it's now been a few years, and with the speed of technology development, that info could easily be outdated.
We replaced our undercounter fluorescent bulbs with warm white ones from Lowes, but for someone who boondocks, an LED option would be much better.
Michelle
Cancel the ad. The old florescents are g o n e.
Michelle,
I did see what appears to be the same lights offered for cars. Voltage was 10 - 14 volts so they should work OK (hopefully). Will work off of the existing switches. Just wanted to soften the effects so went with a dimmer. Will have to do research to make sure low voltage does not effect life. Advertised life is 50,000 hours.
Will do an "in depth" DIY as soon as the rolls get here.
Pierce
If the LEDs have "constant voltage (current)" circuits, the dimmers probably won't do what you expect. The circuits should keep the light level constant over a wide range of supply voltage.
If you want to use a dimmer, the LEDs should probably be listed as 12VDC units rather than 8-20VDC units.
Other folk who have more experience and specific knowledge may amplify or correct my suggestion.
Forgot to preview and really messed up the above post. This should make more sense.
They were listed as 12V units but as you know after reading some instructions on overseas products, a lot gets lost in translation. The dimmers were only $6 delivered so if they don't work, not the end of the world.
Most of my concerns were whether they were not going to be bright enough, but also had the thought that they might be too bright. So, enter the dimmer. Typical shipping time means they should be here in a couple of days. We will see then and will post.
Pierce, you can always go back and edit your posts, too. Just click the "Modify" button on the upper right of the post. Remember to click "Save" at the bottom when you're done editing. "Preview" also works when modifying.
Michelle