I will be looking for relacement tires for my 1996 U295
the Michelin current brochure on the web lists the following for 275/80R22.5s
G XZA3®+ EVERTREAD
G XZE2™
H XZA3®+
H XZE™
The XZEs have a deeper tread and are categorized as 'regional'. I assume that means lots of turns rather than lots of highway miles.
Comments re:selection would be appreciated.
thanks
elliott bray
I have one XZE in an inner dual due to a blowout. It consistantly runs 3-5 degrees hotter that the remaining five XA1s. I would not run XZEs by choice.
Powers put XZE's on my coach and they run fine. Smooth and so far no issues. They do run according to my pressure pro about 8 degrees hotter than the cold position. This does not seem excessive to me as it was 102 degrees outside at the time. So far I think they are fine. I talked to others who have them for couple years and they seem pleased DAN
I purchased (6) XZE2's for my U295 to go all around. I am pleased with them so far.
In the front, they did cause some rubbing on the bottom of the air bag mounts, when turning, that had to be ground off. I have not found that they are of a greater diameter but it may be the wider tread that is the problem.
My opinion on tires is that Foretravel picked the best tire for the coach when it was new and one can not be faulted for replacing it with the same tire. If you put on something else and a bad thing happens, do you have a reason to complain? If you need new tires call Foretravel and ask if they still recommend the original tire.
The XZE2™ and XZA3®+ EVERTREAD appear to have a G load range. The XZA3®+ and XZE™ appear to have a H load range. What load range is required on your coach? Find out what load range tires you need. And you do have other choices. Goodyear, Toyo, Hankook, Continental, Bridgestone, and Sumitomo come to mind and the all have good followings.
Michelin offers some good information on the following page: Michelin North America RV Reference Materials Page (http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/toolbox/reference-material.jsp) . The "RV Tire Guide" and the "Service Life for RV/Motorhome Tires".
I used XZA2s on my last two coaches. On this coach I had XZA3s put on and just put on two new XZA3+ this week. I have had no issues with either the 2s or the 3s.
We put XZA-1+ Load Range G on our 1997 U295 immediately after we bought it. We have weighed three times on Cat scales. According to measured axle loads and charts from Michelin, the load range G tire is suitable for our coach while running 90psi front (cold) and 80psi rear (cold). Maximum cold pressure according to the sidewall is 110 psi. Wayne Musser at FOT recommends slightly lower pressures. Other experienced folk like to run higher pressures and some like to use load range H.
We have been satisfied with the tires for about 14K miles. We have had no problems so far.
I reviewed sales brochures for FT coaches of model year 1996. It appears that original equipment tires were 275/80R22.5 Michelin PXZA. The brochures don't specify a load range.
Foretravel Specifications, Floor Plans, Photos & Brochures by Year (https://wiki.foreforums.com/doku.php?id=through_the_years:specs)
My 99 came with XZA2 in Load Range G.
I went ahead and purchased 6 Michelin XZA3+s through the Family Mootor Coach Advantage program.
XZA3+ 275/80R 22.5 Load Range H
BASE: $521 purchase + $35 FET
plus $30/mount
$39 each to balance two steers
Because I anticipate a price increase (dealer says history has been every quarter) I got then now at TCI in Austin.
From what I see, the BASE price will be the same through FMCA no matter what dealer.
12 shopping days left...
I went with XZA1+ load range G on the rear axle, l like the more aggressive tread on the XZA1+ on the rear axle. Plus they were $70 less per tire than XZA3+. I think load range G tires are rated around 5650 lbs when mounted dual and with a rear axle rating of 20,000 (I am around 700 lbs under that) that gives me at least a 650 lb margin per tire on the rear axle. I couldn't get XZA1+ in a load range H so I went with XZA3+ load range H tires on the front axle. Load range G tires mounted single are rated around 6150 lbs each and with a 12,000 lb rated front axle that didn't leave much margin to max, so I went with load range H tires rated around 7,000 lbs each so I have a more comfortable margin on the front tires.
The XZA3+ tires are by far the best driving tires I have had on this coach, smooth, quiet and they track very well.
I did all this through the FMCA Alliance account. I believe the FMCA receives a new price sheet each quarter when the new Michelin prices come out.
The only thing that went wrong was one rear wheel lug nut broke off at the inner wheel. I have been told that they will have to weld an outer lug nut to the inner one so they can get a socket on it to get it off. I am worried about the heat on the wheel. Any ideas?
Call James Triana at Foretravel and ask for his opinion. 800-955-6226
I would be worried about the welding causing pitted bearings if they clamped the ground clamp incorrectly. Sure will pit the bearings nice & quickly, then your into new bearings and have to pull the hub anyway, so do it correct the first time.
My Opinion FWIW
John, If I understand, they got the wheel off even tho they broke off the stud ?? Right ?
If so they should be able to remove the inner stud from the Rotor and replace it. In other words why would they even try to weld on it if they already have access to the rotor ? These are Budd Type wheels aren't they ?
Gary B
Gentlemen,
Thanks for the input!
Jerry, good idea to check with James, he has probably been there before. I will do that.
Thanks Dave, just like a lightning strike on the spinner of an aircraft engine, a tear down to check bearings and gears! Arc welding could be a problem, they're talking gas welding. He said they have to keep the flame pointed away from the wheel, sure looks close to me. Hopefully, enough of the heat will be absorbed by the wheel stud and axle flange. I need to know more before I okay this one!
Gary, yes these are Budd Wheels, they were unable to remove the inner wheel but were able to change the tire with the wheel on the coach. They got started on the six tire change and we went next door for breakfast. It was done when we came back except for the one outer wheel, he said this was how they change a tire on a road call. The stud that broke was rusted about halfway around so it had been partially broken for some time.
Maybe James will have an idea. There is very little to try to get a hold of on the lug nut. Hope I don't need a wheel when this is over. I wonder if it comes to it what will happen if I just leave it alone. I have 10 nuts on the inside wheel and 9 on the outside wheel. Maybe they could grind the nut off, being careful to avoid any damage to the wheel, cut it thin and use a chisel to break it off even if it ruins the stud, that can be replaced and would be less expensive than a wheel!
John, That inner stud is cone shaped if I remember right so grinding it off would be near impossible to get down into the cone in the wheel without doing some damage. I assume ( I know ) that your inner wheel is An Alcoa, I would be very worried about applying enough heat to weld on the stub. Driving with a missing lug nut is not a good idea, probably safe BUT you don't want an inspection after an accident. I would take the advice to talk with James or Harvey first. They have probably seen this before.
Good Luck.
Merry Christmas.
Gary B
Think I would try to drill it.........
Aren't they like Grade 8 or something?
Craig
Gentlemen,
Thanks again for your ideas.
I will try James or Mark tomorrow to see what they suggest.
OK guys, I am slowly recovering from a dumbass attack, pretty serious this time.
I was just at the tire shop to get air checked in mine, back won't let me. I asked about a broken Budd Stud. The manager laughed and showed me the broken stud remover. It is about the same as an easy out, You hammer it on the broken stud and then take the air gun to it, teeth bite in and off it comes, he cringed when I mentioned welding a nut on it. He also said a liberal application of PB Blaster is highly recommended.
Now, back to my nap.
Gary B
As dave head says, GOOGLE is your friend.
http://www.toolzone.com/acatalog/Tool_Zone_Catalog_Broken_Cap_Nut___Wheel_Stud_Removal_Tools_4079.html (http://www.toolzone.com/acatalog/Tool_Zone_Catalog_Broken_Cap_Nut___Wheel_Stud_Removal_Tools_4079.html)
Here is the tool that any competent tire shop should have to remove a broken Budd Stud.
Merry Christmas all.
BTW " I don't want to own all the tools, Only the ones I don't have " :)
Gary B
Gary, Thanks for the research!
I did have a truck tire shop try using a removal tool, his tool tried to bite into the round part of the lug nut but it wasn't tight enough as my stud has a reduced diameter from where the threads (for the outer lug nut) end. That's where this one broke.
However. the inner nut removal tool on the page you found implies that it bites into the inner lug nut and not the shaft that remains, so that may work. The part of the shaft that remains out from the inner lug nut has been shaved down a little from the tool they used and just spun removing some metal.
I will check more tire shops to see what tools they have. In the mean time, more penetrating oil!