had a warning alarm go off on 380 in denton. there are no idiot lites on ,all vitals read good.
it,s rained all morning, the airflow restriction is red,the filter is wet and very heavy. could this be the problem ? any elp would be appreciated. Mitch
Mitch,
That could very well be the problem. You must have went through some high water and suck it into the air intake.
Not aware of any alarm based on air filter restriction, but sure would not drive with a water soaked air filter-- very likely to break up under vacuum of running the engine and at the very least allow dirt into the engine-- water into engine (hydrolock if enough water) even worse. Wet paper is not very strong!
Any number of things could set off the alarm in wet conditions-- a few are antenna up alarm (usually a short on the roof), engine temperature or oil pressure sender shorting due to water, jack alarm, etc. If you have a schematic of the alarm wiring, pull out your digital VOM and start with those circuits.
Brett
Mitch,
We're about 15 minutes from 380 - anything we can do to help? Closest truck parts/service is Inland just off I35/loop 288, but they don't open until 7AM.
Michelle
Mitch, I have the same coach and a similar problem. For some reason my Transmission alarm started going off when the engine was above 1800 rpms and on occasion would stay on. It showed no codes and all of the fluid levels and such were OK. I replaced the ignition solenoid and now the alarm only goes off at 2000 rpms and goes back off as soon as the rpms fall. I have done a cursory investigation under the dash but can't find anything else to fix. A thorough investigation will have to wait until I recover from my spinal surgery. We have driven around 1000 miles after this started happening with no ill effect.
I don't mean to insult your intelligence but if you haven't done so, you have to push the button on top of the air flow indicator while the engine is running. Otherwise it will stay red. At least that's the way mine is.
Kent is correct, the air filter minder stores the highest reading/most restriction is sees until the reset button on the end of the filter minder is hit.
But, except in an extreme emergency, I would not drive any diesel with a water-soaked air filter. Too many bad things can happen (and very few good ones).
Mitch, since we have the same coach if your filter is indeed water logged, I would like to know what circumstance caused your filter to become soaked. I have yet to drive my cloach in the rain. We have only had it for a year.
Samr coach--- two years ago I had to drive in a "frog strangler" for about 30 minutes to get to rest area. No water problem with filter, no problems at all.
I am in Grand Prairie, 35 miles south. 817.821.3869
Brett makes a good point about wet paper not being very strong. We had to tear a couple of Detroits down after air cleaners caught fire (fire truck) while running. The pieces stuck the top ring and lost compression on several cylinders.
Hydrolock can bend a rod when you hit the starter. Had that happen on a new truck.
I have driven in really heavy rain several times like Bill but never had a trace of any problem.
You must have REALLY splashed a lot of water.
several years ago I had a 93 280 that would always set off the
alarm in heavy rain. as I recall, it turned out that the forward ride
height valve was at fault. I think!
Wayne Macauley said: "I had a 93 280 that always set of the alarm
Wayne, My '92 U-280 still, to this day, for the 8+ years I've owned the coach, has an alarm that goes off in heavy rain. Despite spraying sealant around serveral solenoids/contacts, mechanics can't find the cause.
If anyone can point us in the right direction, I'd be really indebted.
Antenna up switch on the roof is one of the prime candidates. Water can get in and short them out. At least on your, it is standard home alarm magnetic switch. Don't remember if antenna down was open circuit or closed circuit-- you would need to check yours with a VOM.
Another is the engine oil pressure and coolant temperature senders. Cleaning and coating with a di-electric grease helps.
Brett
I believe Keith Risch at MOT knows the source of the rain spray induced alarm. He told me some time ago and I have forgotten the culprit.
Finally got to an internet connection. First of all I'd like to thank all for their input. Still not sure what the problem was/is I blew out the water that I could from the filter , also blew what connections I could find. Then started the #@%$# fron the remote switch at the engine and the alarm stopped, it whimpered a little then went away, thank God. the rain wasn't heavy, just steady. Although it continued to rain steady I drove another 500 miles to northern Arkansas without incident. ???
again , thank you
Mitch
Mitch,
Again, would STRONGLY suggest that you replace the filter. Either water intrusion or using compressed air (and certainly the combination of both) can cause filter integrity to fail.
There will be no immediate symptoms-- until the engine is "dusted" and you have to do a hot end overhaul.
Also, suggest you check for dryness, lack of water intrusion at the on-roof antenna up switch (looks like house window alarm) and oil and temperature senders on the engine. They are still the most likely cause of the alarm in heavy rain.
Brett
Filter for my U300 is only about $31-$35 or less than 1% of cost for dirt ingestion repairs. I do blow mine out but when dry and at a pretty good distance with not much pressure. EZ to damage and worse, damage without realizing it.
thanks I will look for a filter in town as soon as it stops raining. Bret, I just had the ant. sending unit replaced. I did do a diagnostics code check before I left Denton, codes showed hi voltage @oil pressure sender, low voltage @ high temp sender, and something @ low coolant sender. all these checked out fine. Don't understand why idiot lites didn't light up, they all work with ignition switch on,before start-up. Test of faith I guess. :)
Enough bleed over in wet conditions to set off the alarm but not trigger a warning light is not that unusual.
And, the antenna sending unit is not really that waterproof. Have had use sealant on some to keep water out.
(sung) ... to be stuck outside of Denton, with the warning light bluuuze again."
oldMattB
OK ,finished another 1600 mile trip and not a peep from the alarm. however as I was changing the filter I noticed from under the coach, at the bottom of the tube that holds the filter ,at the lowest point of that tube is a 1 inch diameter hole, looks like a good place to drain water . also looks like a good place to pick up water as it sets about 9 inches off the road. shouldn't this have a push plug or something in it? I can touch the filter with my finger thru this hole. maybe someone with a 6V92 could check and see if theirs is covered. that is where the filter was the wettest.
Thanks,Mitch
Mitch,
There should be a duck bill flapper valve in that hole.
Pamela & Mike
May not be the best pic. but hope this helps.
it does help. wonder where one would find one.
Mitch,
Our local Kenworth truck shop has them for a couple of bucks.
Pamela & Mike
RE: Air filter shouldn't this have a push plug or something in it?
You are missing the rubber plug that allows water to leave the housing but prevents anything from entering the air filter housing.
Yes, desirable, but not critical, at least on the way our air filter is set up. This plug, as it should be, is on the "dirty" side of the filter element. Were it on the "clean side" you are correct, it would be critical.
Brett
Thanks guys, I'm pretty sure that's where I picked up the water.
Brett
I am ready to address the sensor/rain issue. I plan on using a spray electronic cleaner, then blowdrying w/compressed air and packing the connections with dielectric grease. can I use too much grease? and is this the route to go? I plan on doing this to every connection I can find.
I appreciate everyone's help.
Mitch
Mitch,
I would just replace the roof mounted "antenna up" switch-- they are only a couple of bucks and if it has gotten water in it, it is not worth trying to repair. Just remove and take to any store that sells parts for home alarm systems. They can tell by looking if it is a normal open or normal closed switch.
And for the "under coach" connections such as oil pressure and water temperature, your approach is correct: clean, sand metal with 1000 grit if you don't have a clean metal surface (or replace the connector). Then apply dielectric grease and get a good tight connection. You don't need to get messy with huge amounts of grease, but coat all the metal. Basically, you are isolating the sender(s) so that muddy water will not provide a partial ground path and trigger an alarm.
Brett